Keeping bolsters and shields nice and shiny

SoansoMcMasters

SoansoMcMasters

Gold Member
Joined
Jul 7, 2022
Messages
567
How do you kind folk keep (or revive) your bolsters and shields shiny? Same with brass liners. I’ve picked up two GECs that will be users, and I’m fine with patina on my blades, but I’d like to keep the bolsters and shields looking sharp. What are your preferred methods? After a few whittling sessions mine are already losing their luster because my PH was made for tarnishing things!


As always, thanks!
 
SoansoMcMasters said:
How do you kind folk keep (or revive) your bolsters and shields shiny? Same with brass liners. I’ve picked up two GECs that will be users, and I’m fine with patina on my blades, but I’d like to keep the bolsters and shields looking sharp. What are your preferred methods? After a few whittling sessions mine are already losing their luster because my PH was made for tarnishing things!


As always, thanks!
Click to expand...
Flitz polishing compound will do the trick.
 
I use Wenol and/or Simichrome metal polishes myself. Same as Flitz I suppose, just the brands I happen to own. You have to be real careful not to get the black residue from the polishing onto light-colored bone or stag. It will get into the pores and discolor the knife.

If you have some Renaissance wax you could protect the handles first, but still try not to get the black stuff on the lighter-colored handles. The polish itself is not the issue.

I just use my fingertip inside a soft cloth or paper towel, get a tiny dot of the polish on the tip of that finger, and polish the bolsters that way.

It won't remove deeper scratches like keychain patina, but it will shine the bolsters up like a mirror. If you want to get rid of the scratches, you will need progressively finer grits of sandpaper, probably best to use wet-dry, and take your time about it, and then finish with the polish.

Just like polishing any other metal, really.
 
jc57 said:
I use Wenol and/or Simichrome metal polishes myself. Same as Flitz I suppose, just the brands I happen to own. You have to be real careful not to get the black residue from the polishing onto light-colored bone or stag. It will get into the pores and discolor the knife.

If you have some Renaissance wax you could protect the handles first, but still try not to get the black stuff on the lighter-colored handles. The polish itself is not the issue.

I just use my fingertip inside a soft cloth or paper towel, get a tiny dot of the polish on the tip of that finger, and polish the bolsters that way.

It won't remove deeper scratches like keychain patina, but it will shine the bolsters up like a mirror. If you want to get rid of the scratches, you will need progressively finer grits of sandpaper, probably best to use wet-dry, and take your time about it, and then finish with the polish.

Just like polishing any other metal, really.
Click to expand...
- very well said, I agree entirely - over zealous polishing can stain and mess up pale coloured handles, be they wood or animal.

Coarse pastes, like Autosol, go dark very quickly and will stain in no time. I usually begin with something more handle-friendly, like furniture polish, and see if it shines up the metal shield too………then I know I will very likely keep the handle looking good as well.

Microfibre cloth, the favourite, starting with very small amounts of polish.

Autosol will scratch chrome - yes, very fine scratches - so I rarely use that, particularly on the Harley.

If you can get it, try a small bottle of Ballistol - it’ll gently polish if used sparingly, and will preserve leather, wood and rubber……to name a few
 
Last edited:
I use one of those 3 or 4 sided nail buffing blocks. Works great, fast and easy with no mess.


41+v4vM5yDL._AC_SL1000_.jpg
 
If I see a dull bolster or handle on one of my knives I simply make it my carry for a couple of weeks. I carry my pocketknife exclusively in my LFP with nothing else in that pocket. Surprising to me how clean a pocket will get the outside of a knife - it will clean the whitish discoloration off Delrin handles too. OH
 
Yes, it's more lack of use that encourages tarnish esp. where brass is concerned. If brass gets tarnished enough or there's damp, verdigris will appear which certainly will discolour scales, unless you like the green look...

Stropping the bolster will really get bad scratching off, works well on the spine of knives too.

Autosol a German metal paste comes in 2 forms, chrome and stainless steel, I find the stainless steel version much better. But as Chui Chui noted, it does blacken up a lot so caution needed when polishing light bone or Stag particularly when there are brass liners. Works fine on all steel though.
 
Use it and enjoy the patina. I confess I’m not actually the best at practicing what I preach though. I try to carry my knife in a pocket by itself so it doesn’t get too scratched up. Still, you’ll inevitably put it in with keys once, and it will get some interesting character that way.
 
Are GEC bolsters made of nickel plated brass? In other words, if I polish the bolsters, will I eventually remove the plating and reach the brass.

I've done this on a Case. ***edit*** I may need to look further into this. I may need a little more elbow grease.
 
Last edited:
A little side note.. If you are using a paste cleaner (Flitz, Wenol, Simichrome etc) Dampen your rag that you are cleaning/applying it with..
It will reduce the black residue build up..
Also on bone, stag handles.. Wrap the handle next to the bolster with painters tape..
John
 
AZGabe said:
Are GEC bolsters made of nickel plated brass? In other words, if I polish the bolsters, will I eventually remove the plating and reach the brass. I've done this on a Case.
Click to expand...

No they're solid. Either nickel silver, steel, or brass depending on the knife.

Eric
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top