Keeping your knives show quality

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May 19, 2016
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Hey there. New to the forums and hailing from N.W. Arkansas. New to the craft using file removal techniques and natural woods, 1084 and 1095 steels. Danish oil on the handles. Using desert ironwood and ebony so far with brass pins. I am making up a small stock to start selling and wanted to know what to do to keep these looking shiny and polished. The steel dulls quickly and rust without a bit of oil and the brass dulls quickly. Some type of wax on the handle and/or blade? Also may do some craft fairs. My local Lowes is my prime supplier so something specialized is something I would like to avoid. Oh and as a side note, is there a way to add a profile pic or signature pic? Thanks everyone.
 
Danish oil is a poor choice of finish for exotic woods. It will stay tacky and continue to bleed out of the.

I make a specialized wood finish for knife handles. Most of the standard finishes you use will either never cure or darken the wood prematurely, muting the beautiful colors that make the wood valuable in the first place. Ill be mixing up a new batch in a few weeks if you want to email me.

Welcome to the forums. You can check out the for sale sections, find materials, tools and consumables as well as blades for sale, and enjoy.

Ben Greenberg
Greenberg Woods
 
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i use heavy mineral oil on my high carbon blades. keeps the rust/discoloration away. it never goes rancid, and is food safe.
 
Danish oil is a poor choice of finish for exotic woods. It will stay tacky and continue to bleed out of the.

I make a specialized wood finish for knife handles. Most of the standard finishes you use will either never cure or darken the wood prematurely, muting the beautiful colors that make the wood valuable in the first place. Ill be mixing up a new batch in a few weeks if you want to email me.

Welcome to the forums. You can check out the for sale sections, find materials, tools and consumables as well as blades for sale, and enjoy.

Ben Greenberg
Greenberg Woods
Do you have a table at this years Blade Show?

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G890A using Tapatalk
 
Two coats of Mothers Carnuba car wax. Keeps them nice and protects from life. Just returned from a three day outdoor show last weekend. It was a ranch roping event so lots of horses kicking up dust and windy conditions (15-20 mph steady 30-40mph gusts). Knives were laid out on a table and dusted off couple of times a day. This knife was photographed after the event upon our return home. Just wiped it down again, nothing else done to clean it up.

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Years ago I use to use Danish Oil too. Then one day I was applying some to a knife handle and noticed it said: "not for exterior use" on the back of the can. My knives are used outside for the most part. Many woods such as your ironwood or the bocote above don't need a finish. Just hand sand, buff very lightly and wax.
 
After a show, I try to wipe down all my knives with an 8000 grit 3M cloth ( white). This removes any spots of crud and dried spit, etc.
Them I rub them all over with a soft cotton cloth that has Renaissance wax worked into it. Make sure you rub all the surfaces. The cloth stays in a zip-lock bag when not in use and is probably 10 years old. I add a little Renaissance wax to it every now and again. The cost for Renaissance seems high, but a little can will to thousands of knives. I have found nothing short of Cosmoline that will protect a knife better in storage.

Renaissance is a micro-crystalline silicone wax that will protect wood and metal. It is the very top of the line in protection, IMHO.

When the next show comes or someone wants to see a knife, all I have to do is wipe off the knife with a soft clean cloth and it is shiny and bright.

When I sell a good knife with a carbon steel blade, I give them a zip-lock bag with a 6X6" cloth with some Renaissance wax on it ... so they can keep their knife pristine, too.
 
+1 on the Ren wax-it also helps to wipe everything down as you pack up.
I had a show where I didn't, and another vendor's son (who had to touch everything, which i don't mind) had hands covered in Pepsi. Four hours of buffing live blades-never again.
 
on the subject of danish oil, i had read danish and linseed oil do not harden on a woodworking forum. it has to be boiled linseed oil to harden. anyone else agree ?
 
on the subject of danish oil, i had read danish and linseed oil do not harden on a woodworking forum. it has to be boiled linseed oil to harden. anyone else agree ?

There's is a fair amount of confusion around oil finishes.I'll try to explain the basics and why none of them are ideal for knives.

Linseed oil: it is technically a drting oil, which means given enough time it will cure. Unfortunately this is often 8-10 weeks in normal wood, and never in the case of an oily or stabalized woods.

Boiled linseed oil: same as above, but with several heavy metal salts added as catalytic dryers. Unfortunately, it still requires oxygen to polymerize, something it won't get inside anot oily or stabalized wood.

Tung oil. The drying oil of a Chinese nut, this is popular because it darkens wood and is more water resistant than linseed oil. Nut it still needsays o!

Danish oil: actually anot oil varnish blend, often with a little dye as well. Works great for a small wood working project, but guess what the varnish needs to cure? Exactly. Oxygen.
 
Without getting into the exotics, or what is best.
I have used like Horsewright, ANY automobile wax or Floor wax to protection and keep my knives nice & shiny from peoples finger prints etc..

I wonder if some of these people ever wash there hands?:eek:

Start with what you have already around the home and then research this topic further.
 
There's is a fair amount of confusion around oil finishes.I'll try to explain the basics and why none of them are ideal for knives.

Linseed oil: it is technically a drting oil, which means given enough time it will cure. Unfortunately this is often 8-10 weeks in normal wood, and never in the case of an oily or stabalized woods.

Boiled linseed oil: same as above, but with several heavy metal salts added as catalytic dryers. Unfortunately, it still requires oxygen to polymerize, something it won't get inside anot oily or stabalized wood.

Tung oil. The drying oil of a Chinese nut, this is popular because it darkens wood and is more water resistant than linseed oil. Nut it still needsays o!

Danish oil: actually anot oil varnish blend, often with a little dye as well. Works great for a small wood working project, but guess what the varnish needs to cure? Exactly. Oxygen.

What about blended Waterlox, in combination using Sealer/Finish, Marine Gloss and Satin!?

I have been using that for years on curly figured Koa...start with sealer, wipe/rub using 600 w/d emery, two coats/day...let dry between coat, same the next day, until wood saturated to a point where additional coat floats and sealer no longer penetrates...usually takes three days or 6 coats on Koa. Switch over to top coat using Marine Gloss or Satin, rub on successive progressive coat with 800/1000/1200 w/d emery - only one coat/day, remove excess, then allow complete dryness...stop when I feel satisfied with depth of built up - one coat of RejeX for the final seal, takes several days for the complete process.

I have not done wood on knife, but for all the wrong reasons, I have an affinity for pre-ban elephant ivory...

However, I am all ears on your product for wood sealing.

Tia
 
Woods on knife handles are really kind of unique. I worked in a high end furniture shop for a few years, and out normal finish was a marine grade poly, a spary on lacquer or oil varnish blend. But all those are meant for more typical woods that NEED protection, things like oak, walnut and maple. They dont have the oil content, the hardness, or the stability to be used bare.

The finish I make was something I originally came up with for a client who did guitars. He wanted a way to get a finish finer than gunstock finish, but not the shiny plastic film of a shellac or lacquer coating. he was using woods that many knife makers use, things like snakewood, Cocobolo and Koa. I messed around with several recipes and finally got one he liked. After, once i got more into knives I started tinkering with it again and came up with what I know use to finish my knives.

The thing to remember is that in a knife handle, the wood is almost defiantly going to be strong and stable. Dry cocobolo, all stabilized woods, Desert ironwood, African blackwood, these are all woods that are strong, hard and stable. The main point of a the wood finish is not sealing. Your wood should already be bone dry, its part of the reason all my rosewood have been in the country since at least the 50's.

The main point is beauty. You also dont want to obscure the wood. The guitar maker who I made this for didnt like the fact that when he touched his instrument, it felt like he was touching plastic. he wanted to feel the slightest hint of wood grain. There was also the whole issue that knives are so often used near food, so I was somewhat limited in my choice of ingredients "there were a few polymerizing agents I really wanted to use, but they are not the healthiest." I have a video somewhere of me eating a piece of my wood finish.
 
on the subject of danish oil, i had read danish and linseed oil do not harden on a woodworking forum. it has to be boiled linseed oil to harden. anyone else agree ?

Regular oils do harden... eventually. But it can take years for a full polimerization. In practice, the surface hardens relatively fast (a couple of weeks), while the interior takes forever.
Oils intended for human compsumption have vitamine e added to prevent rancidity, aka oxidation, the first step in polimerization. These will take significantly longer to cure.
 
To add to what Mr. Greenberg has said about finishes: Making it even more confusing is that the products labelled as "tung oil" or "danish oil" are often distant extrapolations of their original finishes, with all sorts of driers and additives in a potentially proprietary blend, so no two danish oils are the same.
 
To add to what Mr. Greenberg has said about finishes: Making it even more confusing is that the products labelled as "tung oil" or "danish oil" are often distant extrapolations of their original finishes, with all sorts of driers and additives in a potentially proprietary blend, so no two danish oils are the same.
That's is why if you buy a can of "tung oil finish" what you have is a product that resembles what a tung oil finish looks like. It likely doesn't contain much ,if any, tung oil. It's like a homeopathic tung oil.
 
Woods on knife handles are really kind of unique. I worked in a high end furniture shop for a few years, and out normal finish was a marine grade poly, a spary on lacquer or oil varnish blend. But all those are meant for more typical woods that NEED protection, things like oak, walnut and maple. They dont have the oil content, the hardness, or the stability to be used bare.

The finish I make was something I originally came up with for a client who did guitars. He wanted a way to get a finish finer than gunstock finish, but not the shiny plastic film of a shellac or lacquer coating. he was using woods that many knife makers use, things like snakewood, Cocobolo and Koa. I messed around with several recipes and finally got one he liked. After, once i got more into knives I started tinkering with it again and came up with what I know use to finish my knives.

The thing to remember is that in a knife handle, the wood is almost defiantly going to be strong and stable. Dry cocobolo, all stabilized woods, Desert ironwood, African blackwood, these are all woods that are strong, hard and stable. The main point of a the wood finish is not sealing. Your wood should already be bone dry, its part of the reason all my rosewood have been in the country since at least the 50's.

The main point is beauty. You also dont want to obscure the wood. The guitar maker who I made this for didnt like the fact that when he touched his instrument, it felt like he was touching plastic. he wanted to feel the slightest hint of wood grain. There was also the whole issue that knives are so often used near food, so I was somewhat limited in my choice of ingredients "there were a few polymerizing agents I really wanted to use, but they are not the healthiest." I have a video somewhere of me eating a piece of my wood finish.

I don't use finished wood to do cutting task, eat the wood use on my knife handle nor anything used protecting the fine woods...so no problem there for me!

However, I am interested in your product...especially in the application process, as well as longevity and durability on wood's finished surface.

I do like to know additionally, whether your product formulated primary as a penetrant or superficial use?

Tia!
 
The food safety factor isn't about direct food contact, it's a about the indirect contact. You're handling the knife and the food, so it's a nice benefit.

It's not a penetrating finish. It's applied via a buffing wherl or cloth.
 
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