Ken Onion Work Sharp and scratched blades

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Daddyo16

Joined
Jan 12, 2012
Messages
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Does anyone who uses the KO Work Sharp find that your satin blades get scratched when pulling them through the edge guide? At first I thought I was using too much downward pressure, but it also happens when I do what is recommended and let the weight of the blade supply all the downward pressure.

I'm hesitant to use it on my more expensive blades until I figure out how to avoid it.
 
I'm not seeing how plastic is scratching your blade. Is there something else on the inside of the guide?
 
aquaman67 said:
I'm not seeing how plastic is scratching your blade. Is there something else on the inside of the guide?
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Grit and metal from the blade will accumulate on the guide. When I use the guide, I use it for a visual reference without letting the blade touch it. I find I'm also in better control of the blades contact to the belt that way.
 
Officer's Match said:
Grit and metal from the blade will accumulate on the guide. When I use the guide, I use it for a visual reference without letting the blade touch it. I find I'm also in better control of the blades contact to the belt that way.
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That makes sense and is something that hadn't occurred to me. I guess fine metal particles can do a number on polished metal. Thanks for the insight.
 
Daddyo16 said:
That makes sense and is something that hadn't occurred to me. I guess fine metal particles can do a number on polished metal. Thanks for the insight.
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I like to use the side of the belt that's moving downward (off the edge rather than into the edge) and I put a damp paper towel in front of the machine to catch the off-fall. The rougher grits really move some metal.
 
Probably not, but it should keep it off the blade while you sharpen it. Put the tape on, sharpen, remove the tape. No scratches. You could use a small vacuum near the bottom wheel to keep the dust level down during sharpening if it's a really big problem for you.

I just got my KO and have only used it once so far, but I noticed that the level of dust is directly proportional to the grit of the belt and how much metal is being removed. Finer belt and touch-ups on blades previously sharpened on the KO will generate less dust than a coarse belt used on a knife for the first time, especially if you are lowering the included angle.

Once you get the convex edge established, keeping it will be much less messy. YMMV of course, depending on what/how you're sharpening.
 
Exactly^

I also think that sharpening on the "up" side of the belt is where the most dust accumulation is occurring. By only using the "down" side and a damp paper towel like I previously posted, less will occur since you're sharpening below the guides contact and trapping the dust with the wet paper towel.
 
Daddyo16 said:
Does anyone who uses the KO Work Sharp find that your satin blades get scratched when pulling them through the edge guide? At first I thought I was using too much downward pressure, but it also happens when I do what is recommended and let the weight of the blade supply all the downward pressure.

I'm hesitant to use it on my more expensive blades until I figure out how to avoid it.
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My few knives that I have done so far have fine linear scratches. At first I thought it must have been on the blade to start with, since I did not check the old knives very closely when I started using the sharpener. I think they are coming from the guide. In the comments someone mentioned that it may be fine metal particles on the plastic guide, which makes sense. From this point forward I will be taping the blades. I have tried this on a couple of knives and this seems to work OK.
 
Taping the blade works. Getting the Blade Grinding Attachment works much better. I will never go back to the guide. The BGA is easy to use, does not scratch like that, and I can get my knives sharper with it. I regret wasting as much time as I did and scratching a couple nice knives with that guide.
 
muslmutt said:
Taping the blade works. Getting the Blade Grinding Attachment works much better. I will never go back to the guide. The BGA is easy to use, does not scratch like that, and I can get my knives sharper with it. I regret wasting as much time as I did and scratching a couple nice knives with that guide.
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Thanks for the input. I will look in to this attachment since it is a pain to have to tape the blades when you sharpen. $89 seems a bit steep in addition to what I have already paid, but I sure like the edge this machine puts on the blade. Interesting, none of this was mentioned in the demo I watched at the outdoors show. Don, Sacramento
 
I have it but don't use. Just curious if the belts are the same size if anyone knows for the blade grinding attachment. Thanks.
 
Bill3152 said:
I have it but don't use. Just curious if the belts are the same size if anyone knows for the blade grinding attachment. Thanks.
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I just ordered the Blade Grinding Attachment. The web site says the belts are 1” wide, which I think is wider than the belts on the basic KO grinder.
 
Many don't use the $130 tool (not including belts) as it is. I think it's important to specify this to guys looking to buy one. As the cost goes up to over $200 not including belts. A slow speed grinder or slow speed belt sander is a lot less. And has other uses than just sharpening knives. There are belt angle guides as well that can be bought for a belt sander. If I had to do it again I certainly wouldnt buy it. I didn't know this before otherwise I would have saved the money. Belt sander have many many other uses as well. Just my .02 cents. If you want to advise someone about using one make sure you tell them about the scratched knives and the extra attachments.
 
Donald B., IMHO it was worth every penny of the extra $ the Blade grinding Attachment cost. It took my sharpening beyond the next level, it is more fun, and brings a much greater sense of satisfaction.
 
I got the KO sharpener and, while my wife was away one day, sharpened all of her kitchen knives. It did a great job and didn't scratch any of the many knife-blade surfaces.
 
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