Kephart. What would you change

Not alot to change on the original design. It's a simple utilitarian design. Nothing fancy, just a functional design. Handle shape is great for multiple grips, spearpoint blade is great for an outdoor use blade. As far as size, back in 2005 when Dan Shechtman asked me to reproduce the original Kephart from the old ad for an article he was writing in the Backwoodsman mag, there really wasn't any specs for the knife. He asked me to make it with a 5" blade, 4 1/2" handle, 1/8" thick, 1 1/4" wide blade. From looking at the old advertisment, that picture looked like the blade was 4 to 4 1/2 inches.
Scott
 
i got a BRKT hidden tang kephart that i like alot! it mainly sees kitchen duty but it can hold its own on some simple outdoorsy tasks. i just wish it was a bit more pointy. my ol lady likes it too...and she dont like nothin! :p
 
Last edited:
The only thing I would change would be to add a buttcap so I could pound and grind with it. I wouldn't change the blade at all.

Here's Horace Kephart's reasons for his design (1906 edition of Camping and Woodcraft)

“On the subject of hunting knives I am tempted to be diffuse. In my green and callow days (perhaps not yet over) I tried nearly everything in the knife line from a shoemaker’s skiver to a machete, and I had knives made to order. The conventional hunting knife is, or was until quite recently, of the familiar dime-novel pattern invented by Colonel Bowie. Such a knife is too thick and clumsy to whittle with, much too thick for a good skinning knife, and too sharply pointed to cook and eat with. It is always tempered too hard. When put to the rough service for which it is supposed to be intended, as in cutting through the ossified false ribs of an old buck, it is an even bet that out will come a nick as big as a saw-tooth…. Such a knife is designed expressly for stabbing, which is about the very last thing that a woodsman ever has occasion to do, our lamented grandmothers notwithstanding.

“A camper has use for a common-sense sheath-knife, sometimes for dressing big game, but oftener for such homely work as cutting sticks, slicing bacon, and frying ‘spuds.’ For such purposes a rather thin, broad-pointed blade is required, and it need not be over four or five inches long. Nothing is gained by a longer blade, and it would be in one’s way every time he sat down. Such a knife, bearing the marks of hard usage, lies before me. Its blade and handle are each 4 1/2 inches long, the blade being 1 inch wide, 1/8 inch thick on the back, broad pointed, and continued through the handle as a hasp and riveted to it. It is tempered hard enough to cut green hardwood sticks, but soft enough so that when it strikes a knot or bone it will, if anything, turn rather than nick; then a whetstone puts it in order….”

I think he wrote elsewhere that you ought to be able to eat with it (no titanium sporks back then I guess), which explains why he didn't go with a pointier tip. Have to be able to open cans and then eat your peas with it!
 
“On the subject of hunting knives I am tempted to be diffuse. In my green and callow days (perhaps not yet over) I tried nearly everything in the knife line from a shoemaker’s skiver to a machete, and I had knives made to order. The conventional hunting knife is, or was until quite recently, of the familiar dime-novel pattern invented by Colonel Bowie. Such a knife is too thick and clumsy to whittle with, much too thick for a good skinning knife, and too sharply pointed to cook and eat with. It is always tempered too hard. When put to the rough service for which it is supposed to be intended, as in cutting through the ossified false ribs of an old buck, it is an even bet that out will come a nick as big as a saw-tooth…. Such a knife is designed expressly for stabbing, which is about the very last thing that a woodsman ever has occasion to do, our lamented grandmothers notwithstanding.

“A camper has use for a common-sense sheath-knife, sometimes for dressing big game, but oftener for such homely work as cutting sticks, slicing bacon, and frying ‘spuds.’ For such purposes a rather thin, broad-pointed blade is required, and it need not be over four or five inches long. Nothing is gained by a longer blade, and it would be in one’s way every time he sat down. Such a knife, bearing the marks of hard usage, lies before me. Its blade and handle are each 4 1/2 inches long, the blade being 1 inch wide, 1/8 inch thick on the back, broad pointed, and continued through the handle as a hasp and riveted to it. It is tempered hard enough to cut green hardwood sticks, but soft enough so that when it strikes a knot or bone it will, if anything, turn rather than nick; then a whetstone puts it in order….”
What he says makes a lot of sense eh !
 
I'm sure most of you have seen these pictures but I thought I'd put them up for reference.

med_1175099099-kephart.jpg


Kephart_Small_Knife-1.jpg


1175099136-kephart_ad.jpg
 
1/8" is definitely what I think of as a hard use, heavy duty knife nowdays....no need to go any thicker !

I was thinking that same thing. 1/8" will do everything I need a knife to do for a knife with a 4" - 5" blade. Maybe on a bigger knife I would go thicker but what in the world are people doing to a knife to need more than that. I beat the living snot out of my knives that are 1/8" and they just laugh at me.

@KFU, I would go with 1/8" and make a cutter not a chopper. Try sticking with the original design parameters and see how you like it. Then tweak what you want and make it your own. That's half the fun for me. :D
 
Sure looks like the Green River Dadley (sp) pattern doesn't it. The more things change the more they stay the same.
 
My curiosity got the better of me & I got one from JK not long ago.
4.5 blade,4.5 handle,.125 thick x 1.25 high,01 steel.Oak scales.
I was pleasantly surprised by how good it felt in hand.
The only change you should make is ORANGE liners Chris.;) :thumbup:
eb6981cb.jpg
 
Just ordered an OSK-1 from Charles May. Its a great take on the Kep. Don't have it in hand yet but it seems true to original specs and modern at the same time. Like Kephart and Siegle got together and made a bushcraft SAR. Looking forward to trying it out. Check out the design.
 
Well, here is what I came up with. Its more traditional in design and I really like it.
Crappy pics and I still need to sharpen.
5/32" stock because I didn't have 1/8" wide enough
5" handle, 4 3/4" blade
P1010001.jpg

P1010003.jpg

P1010004.jpg
 
Last edited:
Thats a great looking Kephart!

I dont have mine in hand yet, but the only thing I changed on my order was a 4.5" handle. I originally chose 3/16", but after talking with Matt and thinking it over, I decided to go with the tried and true 1/8". Many men before me have beaten 1/8" Kepharts unmercifully, and yet the Kephart is still around to tell the tale.

I do like Charlie's take on the Kep with his OSK, and with a shorter blade it would be perfect in my mind.
 
Thanks guys. Its made from Aldos 1095 with a full convex grind.
 
Back
Top