Kershaw Framelock Blade Centering

That's a huge mistake. Red threadlocker is what the Military uses on their M1 Abrahams. You put it on anything you DON'T want to come apart.
 
Possibly. Depends on whether you will ever want to take it apart again or not.

I've never had a problem with it before?

I don't use much. But I took out the pivot pin to be safe and wiped everything down and will put the pivot pin back in tomorrow.

I think we are comparing different thread locker.

The blade on this leek was off centered a little but now it's fixed.

I never had this issue on any of my other knifes till Kershaw started making theirs in China.
 
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Loctite Blue 242 or 243 should work fine for a threadlocker for your knife. That will hold the screw in place, and if you need to later, you can always break the lock with a firm turn of a Torx driver. Loctite Red 262 or 271 is more of a permanent lock. To remove it, you have to heat it to over 400°F. There are other brands of threadlocker besides Loctite, and they might use different color designations. Anyway, it would probably be best to use one designated as "removable" (like Loctite Blue 242 or 243).
 
Are there any fellow Kershaw owners who have bought a frame lock design where the blade came centered in the frame?

I just received a Kershaw Volt SS Stainless Steel Speedsafe Knife and the blade is rubbing on the frame.

I checked my Leek when it first arrived and the blade was centered. I also heard that the new Cryos have this same problem with the blades not being centered?

Is this normal or a defect?

Thank You

Hypermole, if the blade is rubbing the inside of the handle with the pivot properly tensioned, contact the Warranty department and send it in. We will replace it. See the links in my signature for more info.

- Jim
 
That's a huge mistake. Red threadlocker is what the Military uses on their M1 Abrahams. You put it on anything you DON'T want to come apart.

That's kind of vague - like, what part of the tank gets red threadlocker? Red isn't that bad - I don't know that I'd use it on a smaller folding knife's pivot, but if used in tiny amounts on well-machined threads, it's not impossible to break loose. Now the green... that stuff is a little better (if you use threadlock on a gun-barrel / suppressor mount, I'd recommend the Green or Rocksett - I've seen QD mounts come loose after a couple-thousand rounds with just Red).

I never had this issue on any of my other knifes till Kershaw started making theirs in China.

KAI has always produced imported knives haven't they?
 
Thats what I said earlier, not sure I said it loud enough?

I have a few Kershaw knifes and a Kershaw Multi-tool with vise grip needle nose pliers that all say "Made in the USA"

As far as the knife goes the seller is replacing it. Even though it is a low cost knife, its kind of a hassle (I am disabled) to have to wait to get one and then have to go thru this process. I guess if I add anymore Kershaw's to my small collection, I will have to expect this type of issue in advance.

My small red bottle of thread locker is so old the label is washed out, so I'm trying to remember the brand name. Like I said, I've never had a problem with it before.

I was hoping to add a Cryo and/or Cryo II to my collection, but now that juju has pointed out they are all made in China, I'm not so sure.

Thanks Everyone !!
 
Back "on topic",, here is what I did to center my ZT0350.

Close the knife.

Loosen ALL the screws. (including the pivot)

With everything loose, tighten the pivot screw real tight (notice that the blade moves to the left when looked at from above)

Now, with pivot tight and the blade far to the left, tighten all the scale screws.

Once the scales are tight, adjust your pivot. ;)
 
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