Kershaw Junkyard Dawg 2

Vivi

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Short Review: Exceptional value for someone seeking a large, rugged knife.

Long Review: The Kershaw JYD2 has become one of my favorite knives after only a few days time. Here's what I like about it...

-Flipper works so well I don't even need to move my wrist when opening the knife. Very smooth action.
-The flat grind is well done, bringing the blade to a thin edge for a folder this size. The edge bevel is much less obtuse than other Kershaws I've used like the Storm and Mini Cyclone. I love the bladeshape, it works well on cutting boards and whittling wood or peeling foods.
-High out of box sharpness like all my recent Kershaws have been.
-The texture and color of the G10 is some of the best I've experienced.
-The grip is extremely secure and fairly comfortable. The index cut-out and flared handle ends reduce the chance of your hand slipping and the thickness of the handle adds comfort.
-Well constructed with thick liners, an innovative stop-pin placement, screw construction and very even lines all across the knife.
-I thought the clip was pretty comfortable compared to other clips I've used. It's not as tight as other clips when clipped to the pocket, so with such a heavy knife it seems like it might be easy for it to slide out, especially clipped to the back pocket. I removed mine like I do with all my knives and have been carrying it in the front pocket since. The clip is drilled for tip down right hand carry only.

A few things I dislike...

-The thumb-ramp is too far back to be comfortable for me and I find my thumb naturally going to the point on the top of it or just past it. If I adjust my grip so my thumb sits where the thumbramp is positioned it feels awkward and makes my thumb soar. I have this issues with most of Kershaws knives and was a little dissapointed to see it happen with the JYD2, but I like the knife so much that I'll either work on my grip or dremel the handle some.

-The flare at the end of the handle where the pinky sits could of been a more gentle curve so you have more room to grip the knife. If this were the case I could scoot my hand back a little and grip it in the thumb ramp, so I might do this to the handle myself.

-The G10 scales could of used a little more rounding, the scales combined with the thickness of the knife makes everything feel slightly squared and blocky, but this is another thing that will be easy to fix.


Overall it's an exceptional knife, especially for the price. The liner lock is one of the most solid feeling ones I've ever handled. It's very thick at the lock-up point. No blade play whatsoever. As mentioned above the opening is very smooth and easy to operate. The flipper works well enough that if you push it in the right direction you can easily open the knife without any wrist flick at all. The handle is extremely secure and rugged feeling overall. Flared handle ends and rough G10 make for excellent grip. The G10 scales are rougher than my Spydercos (G10 Byrd and 440V Milli) and I really like the gray color, just something different than black. Also enjoy Spydercos blue G10. The liners are over 1/16th inch thick with the handle being about 1/2 inch thick overall.

The blade is a hair under 1/8th inch by my measurements and has 3 and 3/8 inch cutting edge. The edge is a gentle sloping curve without as much belly as most folders, but more than something like a Leek. The blade shape works really well for me. I've used it in the kitchen cutting up veggies and meats and it excelled. The edge came ground at a more acute angle than Kershaws I've purchased in the past, but I still ended up thinning it out a bit to really take advantadge of the wonderful geometry behind the cutting edge.

My only issue with the knife is the ergonomics. Most Kershaw knives feel designed for someone elses hands when I hold them. with this knife the thumb ramp is too far back for me to comfortably utilize and the flare at the butt of the handle keeps me from being able to adjust my grip as much as I'd like. If the flare was taken down slightly, maybe an eigth to a quarter of an inch from where the vertical line in the G10 is, I think the extra handle room would add a lot to the comfort of the knife. If you look at the photos you can see the 3 other knives pictured allow more room for you thumb to rest on the spine of the knife, which is one of the reasons those knives have stayed in my collection. Makes them comfortable to use.

I plan to grind the top of the thumbramp down some and possibly the end of the handle to help shape the handle more to my hand. There were also some users who put a choil int he knife, something that is entirerly possible looking at the extra metal behind the cutting edge. I'll do that as well since holding the knife in that position feels wonderful even without the choil ground in yet.

Next to a Spyderco Military, Byrd Cara Cara and Benchmade Griptilian.

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The lock-up

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It reminds me of the Spyderco Manix, except at half the price and with a Kershaw flavor to it (Liner lock vs frontlock and different style of ergonomics).
 
My only issue with the knife is the ergonomics.

Many highly specific handle shapes do that to people. It is why when Mission redesigned the ATAK they made the handle on the MPK a lot less "shaped" to make it more general.

Did you regrind the primary on the Byrd? It looks really thin at the edge? It would be interesting as a steel comparison reference?

-Cliff
 
Did you regrind the primary on the Byrd? It looks really thin at the edge? It would be interesting as a steel comparison reference?

-Cliff

It was sharpened flat to the stone. Cuts pretty good this way and haven't had any sort of durability issues. Based on my time sharpening each knife I'd expect the Byrd to beat the JYD2 in edge holding, its a higher RC steel and felt much more wear resistant. If I can get ahold of a lot of cardboard or something else to test edge retention maybe I could do a comparison once I've finished putting a new bevel on the JYD2.
 
I expected that you did that based on the surface wear, it is a low carbide steel so it is designed for that exact type of profile so durability should not be a concern. I look forward to any comparative comments, your expectations seem reasonable based on the steel characteristics. It would be interesting to see if there was ay difference in superiority in holding a very high polish vs long term slicing behavior.

-Cliff
 
it is a low carbide steel so it is designed for that exact type of profile so durability should not be a concern.
-Cliff

If I understand correctly (and please, feel free to correct me) what you are saying here is that more acute angles are suitable for low carbide steels. Is that the case? Furthermore, which steels are considered "low carbide"?

Thanks.
 
Nice to see that you've actually seemed to have used your blades and sharpened them. No shelf queens there I hope. :)
 
Great thing about the JYD series, is that they are priced so resonably, IMO, that if you somehow ruin one, you can just buy another. I have a JYD 2 and love it.
 
...is that more acute angles are suitable for low carbide steels. Is that the case?

Yes.

Furthermore, which steels are considered "low carbide"?

This would depend on what you mean by low angle :)

Ref :

http://www.bladeforums.com/forums/showthread.php?t=344902

On a curious note, most of the low carbide steels are really disrespected on the forums, the stainless ones anyway, the carbon/tool steels ones are well respected. This is kind of silly as they have similar properties.

-Cliff
 
Carbon is just an element added to iron to make steel.
Carbide by industry definition is Tungsten carbide. Tool steel.
Silicon carbide is used for abrasives. etc...
Carbide is made of carbon and some other element.

I don't think knives are made of carbide.

Someone correct me if I'm wrong.

mike
 
Knives have been made out of pure carbide (by this I mean a pure carbide in a matrix). There was discussion on this on rec.knives where a guy made one as an experiment. I do not think anyone has every put them into production however.

-Cliff
 
That carbide knife broke in use by the maker, he was not too keen on making another. There are lots of semi-carbide steels like REX 121 which are almost pseudo-carbides. Not a lot of makers are rushing to use them either for similar reasons. In fact makers have even complained about the grinding and finishing of S30V which would grind like butter compared to solid carbide.

-Cliff
 
I took the edge down tonight and gave it a high polish. It's not quite as thin as I normally takes my folders. I'm going to see how the steel performs at this angle for a while before I decide how much more to thin it out. With my Storm the edge seemed a little more prone to rolling than other steels so that's mainly what I'm looking out for in the JYD.
 
that JYDII goes through 12 gauge wire fairly easily, so i would assume that it would do fine with a thinned out edge
 
With my Storm the edge seemed a little more prone to rolling than other steels so that's mainly what I'm looking out for in the JYD.

Which knives? The hardness has changed on these so you might have had one of the earlier softer ones. You can expect as much as a 5 point difference anyway from quoted to actual based on some of the HRC tests done on various production knives. This class of steel (low carbide) is actually designed for low angles, unfortunately most of the steels of that class (420HC, AUS-6A, etc.) are left really soft for "beater" knives, so people have really misinformed viewpoint on their maximum level of ability.

-Cliff
 
Vivi said:
the thumb ramp is too far back for me to comfortably utilize

Under what conditions do you use a thumb ramp? Do you find it confers real advantages? As for myself I never understood why one would want to load the thumb like that instead of transferring the force to the palm.
 
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