Kershaw Junkyard Dog II

Joined
Apr 15, 2002
Messages
3,376
About 3 weeks ago I picked up a JYDII at a Gander Mountain. I bought my girlfriend some stuff and as a reward I got to buy myself a knife:). I haven't used Kershaws much, I've owned a few older more traditional looking ones and been impressed with fit and finish but most of the newer designs just don't float my boat. Before this, the Boa was the only "tactical" looking kershaw I'd owned and I sold it because I found the handle way to slippery when my hands were wet. Otherwise I really liked the knife.

So I digress. I picked the JYDII the day before I made my next hitch on the towboat and it was the only knife I used for the 21 days.

This was a big knife and beefy. I thought I would have problems with carrying it in the pocket but I didn't. On the boat I usually carry the knife in my back right pocket clipped against the right seam. I ended up carrying the JYD in the pocket without the clip.

The fit and finish was superb. It opened smoothly and locked up tight and the handle was extremely ergonomic for the style of cutting I mostly did. I held the knife in a saber grip because this was the easiest way I've found of cutting through the large 1 1/2 and 2 inch diameter poly and nylon lines used on the river. I'd hold it with my thumb on the back of the blade and saw through the line. I didn't find that there were any hot spots or fatigue even after long periods of cutting with the knife edge dull. The handle fit my smaller hands perfectly.

I found the clip gaudy (for lack of a better word) but not at all obtrusive when I used the knife. It is actually hardly noticeable at all. The folder was tip up and the clip is designed in such a way that I barely felt it when using the knife. I never carried this knife clipped to my pocket though. I doubt that I will ever carry this knife off the boat clipped to my pocket as the clip is simply too "in your face" and is a blatant advertisement that I am carrying a large knife. This is personal preference.

I loved the blade shape. It appears to be a high shallow hollow grind or a partial flat grind and thinned out from the spine to the edge, making cutting line easier than a saber ground knife. It didn't bind up in the line when the edge started to dull.

The blade is Sandvik 13C26 stainless steel and the handle is G-10. I found that the handle was extremely grippy and secure, almost sticky, even when the knife and or my hands were wet. The edge came highly polished and shaving sharp out of the box. The steel rusted almost immediately however when wet. I was caught in a downpour and got soaked and the knife was wet in my pocket. When I took it out to dry it there was staining on the blade. There was no pitting but the brown spots did not wipe off easily. The blade stained easily when in the pocket and wet with sweat as well.

The knife held an edge for a decent amount of time, in fact I did not reprofile the edge, touched it up on a small diamond rod and the white stones of the sharpmaker, and once on the gray stones. This was the only edge maintenance I did. The steel is tough, and not at all brittle, as evidenced when cutting twine off coils of 1 inch steel wire. There was no chipping, only dulling, when the edge contacted the wire.

The liner lock was beefy and had a very positive lock up when opened with the flipper as well as when opened with two hands. In 21 days of hard use no blade play developed. I used the JYDII for cutting rope, putting points on shingles (used to plug cracks in leaking barges), stripping wire, cutting plastic bottles, and cutting cardboard, tape, and twine.

The knife can be opened with two hands due to the wide blade or with the flipper. I have never owned or used a flipper folder before and found it very easy to open quickly. The only time flipper opening failed was when the knife was wet and the action got sticky. A shot of WD-40 fixed this. I find that the flipper opening is so far the easiest method of opening the knife with one hand with heavy gloves on.

For $50 this is a workhorse of a folder. I actually liked the gray handle scales, although they darkened quickly when used on coke barges and with hands greasy from handling wires. I dropped the knife once from about six feet up onto the gunwhale of a barge and it landed pivot side down with no adverse effects on the knife. The G-10 didnt chip, and no blade play developed. In fact, aside from the staining on the blade and the darkening of the G-10, there is hardly a scratch on the blade or clip of the knife.

When I get a chance I will probably thin the edge out with a coarser stone and keep it toothier than the polished edge I used. I expect to see an increase in cutting performance on rope.

I'd recommend the Kershaw JYD II to anyone who is looking for a heavy duty hard use folder and doesn't want to spend a lot of dough. It is a sturdy knife, with a decent steel and a reliable liner lock and a secure handle.

Pete
 
Very real world man. Much appreciated. I believe once Kershaw switches to the new steel (me forgot name, duh...) which is supposedly more rust resistant then the JYD II will be finally perfect!

Let us know how the JYD II fares whenever you can. It is nice knowing how a tool stands up to tough use.
 
Pete1977,
Nice review. I work for Sandvik and we have, together with Kershaw, developed a new steel called 14C28N. It will have the same good level of cutting performance as 13C26 but the corrosion resistance will be much better.

I think an EDC or an outdoors knife should handle the corrosion attacks your knife suffered without question. And starting from the 1:st of January I'm confident the JYD2 and other Kershaws will.

Please remember though that corrosion resistance vs edge performance is a classical trade-off. Kershaw wanted high-performance steel with moderate corrosion resistance (13C26) some of our other partners go the other way, high corrosion resistance with slightly less edge performance. There is no right and wrong just attention to different aspects. 14C28N is there to push the limit of these boundaries.

Thanks again for the review
//Jerker
 
That's the new steel :) I forgot what it's called and also forgot how to spell Sandvik (I normally use Sandvic).

A question Jerker, will the prices be any different with the new steel?

With regards to the performance, if it's as good as the old but with additional corrosion resistance, I'm positively delighted :)
 
That's the new steel :) I forgot what it's called and also forgot how to spell Sandvik (I normally use Sandvic).

A question Jerker, will the prices be any different with the new steel?

With regards to the performance, if it's as good as the old but with additional corrosion resistance, I'm positively delighted :)

Hi Cotherion,
Sandvick, Sandvic, Scandvic, Scandvik, Scandvick..... We see all versions, it's ok.

Regarding prices, I can't go into any details here but it will be more expensive than 13C26 and 12C27 for instance.

As far as performance goes our tests are positive. It shows overall similar performance or slightly better than 13C26 and the corrosion resistance will be at least as good as with 12C27 if you are familiar with this grade. A presentation of them and a bunch of other info is available here.

www.smt.sandvik.com/hardeningguide

Regards
//Jerker
 
Do you think the JYD-II with the composite blade (Sandvik 13C26/CPM-D2) would be a better performer?

I've never used CPM-D2 so I don't feel qualified to answer regarding cutting performance but I think that the the outer layer of 13C26 would suffer from the same rust spotting issues as the non-composite blade. I could make a guess that edge retention and cutting performance would be much higher with the composite blade but at the cost of ease of field resharpening or touch-ups. I've found that you don't always have the time to sit down and resharpen a knife when using it in work environments and prefer something that can be touched up periodically in the field or during work. Also I would think that the composite blade would push the price point up and if this knife was much more than what I paid (around $50) I would probably have passed it up. I would rather something easily replaceable if lost overboard that won't cost a day's pay. I try to keep my boat/work knives around $50.

If I had to change two things on this knife they would be:

A.the blade finish- I have found that a mirror finish prevents corrosion much better than the satin? finish of the JYD. If I get some free time I might mirror polish the blade by hand and see if it helps. The rust spotting was on the non-clip side of the blade mostly around the KERSHAW marking and on the exposed part of the flipper on that same side when the knife is closed.

and:

B. The pocket clip. You hardly know it is there, but carrying the knife in a non work environment, this clip SCREAMS knife. I really don't like it. And that is too bad because you hardly know it is there when using the knife for cutting chores. It feels like part of the handle. I just don't like what it looks like and how it looks when clipped to a pocket. Its wide and over half the length of the knife handle. And personally for a knife this heavy I would prefer to carry it clipped to the pocket instead of down inside, where it is less accessible when wearing gloves. This knife is perfect for using when working with gloves on because the flipper is one of the easiest functioning opening mechanisms with gloves on. There are no studs or discs to snag on rope strands when cutting or to fumble with when your hands are cold and wet.

Edge retention was good considering for a work knife I prefer something that is easy to field sharpen and tough enough not to chip all to hell when accidentally hitting a wire or iron timberhead or other deck fitting. I had no problem swiping it on a diamond rod to get it back to a working edge when it dulled and prefer this over a knife that cuts forever but takes ages to resharpen.

This knife fits perfectly in my hands in both saber and hammer grip which are what I mostly use to cut large diameter rope. For smaller lines I like to cut with forward grip edge up and although I don't handle thinner rope much on this job I can see only one downside with this knife, and that is the index finger groove pushing into the soft part of my hand under the thumb could get uncomfortable during long cutting chores.

I think my final concern with the JYDII is the rather large sharpening choil between the cutting edge and the flipper. It interfered with sharpening on sharpmaker rods and occasionally hung up on strands of line when cutting rope.

Other than that I would easily recommend this knife as an inexpensive one hand opening locking knife for real world use. As I said earlier I am not a huge fan of many of kershaw's newer designs but I really find this knife functional and good looking to boot. And the price point is very right.

ETA: I'm going up to northern WI to the girl's family cabin for a few days and we picked up a cheap bow and arrow set to target shoot in the woods. We plan on making a target out of old cardboard boxes and the JYDII gets the honor of cutting them up. I'll thin the edge and sharpen it and post again when i'm done. All knives like cutting up cardboard :)

Pete
 
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JYDII gives a big bang for the buck. Great knife with one problem:-- Add me to the list of people who find the clip far too obtrusive in public.
 
Do you think the JYD-II with the composite blade (Sandvik 13C26/CPM-D2) would be a better performer?
Hard to say IMO, I haven't seen enough work done yet with CPM-D2, or had the opportunity to test the one blade in this steel that I own, to say. While it seems clear to me already that CPM-D2 has much higher edge stability than ordinary D2, I think it unlikely that it can match 13C26's very high edge stability. In practical terms this means that I wouldn't expect CPM-D2 to be able to hold as acute and fine an edge as 13C26 when cutting less abrasive materials. CPM-D2, on the other hand, with it's higher carbide content, I would expect to perhaps hold a somewhat degraded "working" edge longer than 13C26 especially when cutting more abrasive or dirty materials. I would also expect the 13C26 blade to be tougher for a given thickness or cross section. So which you would prefer is probably going to depend a great deal on what kind of cutting you do; for my purposes, I think 13C26 is the best all-around choice for an EDC blade.
 
DOW, get a CPM D2 blade, ue it, and then come back. I believe your opinions will change.
 
DOW, get a CPM D2 blade, ue it, and then come back. I believe your opinions will change.
I have a CPM-D2 Leek, but as I commented I haven't put it through any rigorous testing. If you or anyone else has done some specific, quantified work comparing the two steels I'd be very interested in the results.

I believe there are others here such as Thom Brogan who've worked with 13C26 enough to have a pretty solid opinion of this steel and its capabilities. High carbide steels can have their advantages cutting certain materials, but after testing against VG-10, S30V and some limited runs with SG2, I honestly don't expect any high carbide steel to demonstrate the same degree of edge stability and fine edge retention that 13C26 does. I notice in many posts on BFC that 13C26's performance seems to be underestimated ... I can only attribute that to the lack of controlled, side-by-side testing with other steels. Until I see that kind of work being done, or find the time/motivation to do it myself -- and it can be quite time consuming -- I have to go with what I've seen to be the case in my own use and testing.

Besides, I know you're a Kershawhead like me, SPX :) ... IMO you gotta love that such an outstanding steel as 13C26 has become kind of the default standard across their line of folders. Yet even on the Kershaw forum, it seems 13C26 doesn't get the respect it deserves. :(
 
I've never used CPM-D2 (unless a friend pulled a sneaky and even then not that much), so I couldn't make any good guesses. I think Gunmike1 has noticed less burring when sharpening and less microchipping in use than S30V with similar edge-retention, and that sounds good to me. If it's "better," that's cool - I just like Kershaw's 13C26 too much to care.
 
I've never used CPM-D2 (unless a friend pulled a sneaky and even then not that much), so I couldn't make any good guesses. I think Gunmike1 has noticed less burring when sharpening and less microchipping in use than S30V with similar edge-retention, and that sounds good to me.
Yes, and I didn't mean to sound critical of CPM-D2, which is a very interesting steel especially in context/contrast to Crucible's whole "Killer V's" thing with CPM. My experience is exactly like Gunmike's, CPM-D2 is a delight to sharpen -- much like the Sandviks in that respect, in fact.

I just like Kershaw's 13C26 too much to care.
:) I'm pretty much of the same mind, Thom ... I still find myself thinking, "This is the way I've always wanted my blades to behave and perform."

Sounding like a charter SSSS member, aren't I? :D
 
. Yet even on the Kershaw forum, it seems 13C26 doesn't get the respect it deserves. :(

We were turning flips when Kershaw switched to 13C26 a year ago. I guess
some of us just take it for granted now. It's great stuff and I love it.
I guess you could compare it to getting a new pair of shoes that just feel
great when you bought them. You dig the way they feel when you put them
on the first few weeks, after that, you just put them on without a thought.
But if someone happens to ask you about them, you tell them how great they
feel. In respect to CPM-D2, I guess I'm in the same boat as you. I have the
CB Leek but it hasn't seen much pocket time to give a good review of.
I'm still on my honey moon with my RAM. ;) It just finds it's way into my pocket
everyday. Gotta love the edge 13C26 will take. :cool: Gooood stuff!! :thumbup:

6dc8.jpg
 
Hi Cotherion,
Sandvick, Sandvic, Scandvic, Scandvik, Scandvick..... We see all versions, it's ok.

Regarding prices, I can't go into any details here but it will be more expensive than 13C26 and 12C27 for instance.

As far as performance goes our tests are positive. It shows overall similar performance or slightly better than 13C26 and the corrosion resistance will be at least as good as with 12C27 if you are familiar with this grade. A presentation of them and a bunch of other info is available here.

www.smt.sandvik.com/hardeningguide

Regards
//Jerker


Great, even now my JYDII with the old steel keeps a killer edge and is easy to sharpen. With regular wipes of WD-40 it has no issues of rust anymore for me but the new one will be a great improvement if it had 12c27's corrosion resistance.

Pity I bought my JYDIIs and Composites with the old steel. If I waited a little longer I would have gotten the new one! Well I'll save up and use the 13C26 versions as users and keep the rest as spares :)
 
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