Kershaw Junkyard Dog II

many thanks for the great review,,ive had my jyd II for about 3 months now and is my current edc,,love it ,,
 
I take them already for two months, they made a lot of hard work. For me now Junkyard Dog II best combination of beauty and cutting qualities.
 
We were turning flips when Kershaw switched to 13C26 a year ago. I guess
some of us just take it for granted now. It's great stuff and I love it.
I guess you could compare it to getting a new pair of shoes that just feel
great when you bought them. You dig the way they feel when you put them
on the first few weeks, after that, you just put them on without a thought.
But if someone happens to ask you about them, you tell them how great they
feel. In respect to CPM-D2, I guess I'm in the same boat as you. I have the
CB Leek but it hasn't seen much pocket time to give a good review of.
I'm still on my honey moon with my RAM. ;) It just finds it's way into my pocket
everyday. Gotta love the edge 13C26 will take. :cool: Gooood stuff!! :thumbup:

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Spoken like a true Sandvik-a-holic! :) And a great pic, too, BTW. I picked up a Shallot and CB Leek at the same time a few months ago ... they're both gorgeous knives, the CB Leek a genuine beauty and work of art, but it's the Shallot that gets slipped into the right front pocket every day.
 
I picked up a JYD II last year. Mine was very stiff, and even after oiling it and working it, it still would not reliably open one-handed. But it is such a beefy knife with a large useful blade, I kept the knife. Finally, after a year, it will open fairly easily one-handed. Good review.
 
I finally got around to attempting to reprofile and resharpen the JYDII. I used a Lansky oil stone sharpening system and set the guides on 25 degrees. This appeared to be the initial edge angle on one side of the blade, and the other appears to be a greater angle. The steel seems to be fairly difficult to resharpen with the oil stones as its taken almost an hour to near bringing the 30 degree side down. The grind also appeared to be uneven along the length of the blade, with a more obtuse angle at the tip of the blade, and back near the choil, and thinner along the middle of the edge. I began with the extra coarse stone and have moved onto the coarse. Once I am able to get a sharp edge on the blade I most likely will use the medium grit stones to polish the edge but not go any more than that.

I don't know the RC hardness of the steel but it seems fairly hard, as it is more difficult to sharpen than 8Cr13MoV and Vg-10. This is the first knife I've used with Sandvik 13C26 and it appears to have a high hardness. I've read that it is about 57-59 RC in this particular model. I'm not much of the steel junkie so I don't know much about it.

I will post back with an update on how the knife sharpened up finally and with some cardboard cutting if I get around to it today.

ETA: After sharpening at 25 degrees on the Lansky set with the extra coarse, coarse, and medium stones, I put the JYDII on the Sharpmaker with the medium rods set at the 30 degree angle. I used 40 passes on the corners and 20 on the flats, and the blade shaves hair easily and push and pull cuts newspaper. When this knife gets a sharp edge, it is VERY sharp. Coming soon... Cardboard cutting.
 
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I reprofiled my Cyclone and JYDII to 32 degrees inclusive (+/- 1 or 2) and then stropped them out. I did not use a micro-bevel. They cut like razors and hold the edge well, minimal touch up brings them right back. Did the same with the JYDII CB. Holds the edge even longer with the same touch up requirements. I am more than likely setting up a micro-bevel by freehand touch ups (fine ceramic or strop). Both knives are great values.
 
I've read that it is about 57-59 RC in this particular model. I'm not much of the steel junkie so I don't know much about it.



When this knife gets a sharp edge, it is VERY sharp

If I'm not mistaken, Kershaw shoots for around 59-60 RC on all there
knives sporting 13C26.

It does take a very nice edge. With the knives I've re-profiled so far, it
seems like once you get to about 600 grit the edge really starts turning
into a cutting beast. :) I've been finishing off my edges at 1200 grit then
putting a 2200 grit micro bevel on them. It kinda stings my eyes to look at
the edge at that point. :D ;)

Great review on the JYD. I'm looking forward to seeing the tests you're doing.

SV
 
This knife fits perfectly in my hands in both saber and hammer grip which are what I mostly use to cut large diameter rope. For smaller lines I like to cut with forward grip edge up and although I don't handle thinner rope much on this job I can see only one downside with this knife, and that is the index finger groove pushing into the soft part of my hand under the thumb could get uncomfortable during long cutting chores.

Excellent review Pete. I was just using my JYDII today and thinking that I should post something on BF about how good the handle shape is. It feels like an extension of my hand and the grip is excellent for a folder. In fact, now I am thinking about trying one of the ZT folders.
 
In my experiences with good grade high carbon stainless steels, bead blasted blades tend to not hold up as well as satin or polished blades. There's no way I would take a bead blasted blade to the sand box with out first removing the bead blast! I know this from seeing some of our guys knives the way they look when they return. I will say I prefer Kershaw's and Gerber's fine or flat bead blast to a more corse bead blast! I do realize the purpose of the BB is to knock off the glare. I injoyed this review and steel discussion, and learning more about 14C28N.
 
I haven't done much with the JYDII since I got off the boat but I'll most likely take it with on my next hitch, although I am awaiting a large Okapi I want to play with.

Anyhow, regarding the blade finish, I don't like the JYDII finish. I've found, working in the commercial fishery in the N. Atlantic that duller finishes begin to show rust spotting before a mirror polish will due to the more open pores in the steel. I feel that if the JYDII blade was mirror finished, or even polished somewhat more than it is, that the rust spotting wouldn't have appeared as soon after contact with rain/river water, wet clothes, and sweat.

Interestingly enough, this finish DIDN'T show scratches when the flat came in contact with wire, deck fittings and the hull of the barges. It seems to be more scratch resistant than some other similar steels.

holeymoley: The handle, coupled with the blade shape, is BY FAR one of the most comfortable knives I've used.


Again, these are just my personal observations from using this knife in the field, YMMV.


Pete
 
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