Kershaw Outcast?

[bishop85gt]

I dont think thats so much the case, but you Must know what your doing to not have any problems. For someone who hasn't used, and is just buying into D2 its going to be a big change. Just curiuos what is your blade? Mabye if it was a custom the heat treat could be what makes it eaiser to sharpen.

It is the Buffalo Knife from Scott @ Gossman Knives (Razorback Knives) I have a few other custom knives in other steels from different makers. Sure it takes a bit more time to sharpen but I don't mind because it takes a bit more time to dull and takes a real nice edge. I'm happy with it but that don't mean anything. lol

 

[Cliff Stamp]

It is the Buffalo Knife from Scott @ Gossman Knives (Razorback Knives) ...

That would explain why you don't have a problem with chipping, the cross section of his edges are insanely high. He did a test on a small fixed blade and the edge he quoted was heavier than my BRUKS SPLITTING MAUL, no exaggeration. It was in fact not even close.

-Cliff

 

[bishop85gt]

It's not that thick. In fact my TOPS knives were THICK and this is much thinner than any of them. In fact I liked the edge just fine. As big as it is I even do small work with it. And even the tip is very fine. But then again it could be just me. I tend to like my edges thinner even on bigger blades.

 

[Ravaillac]

He did a test on a small fixed blade and the edge he quoted was heavier than my BRUKS SPLITTING MAUL, no exaggeration. It was in fact not even close.

One funny thing is that if you put edges on axes meant for cutting and large knives side by side, axes "terminal section" are quite often finer then knives' grinds. Guess that comes from the fact that many knives aren't very wide, while having a large spine for "prybar applications" (sabre grind even make it worst).

 

[Cliff Stamp]

One funny thing is that if you put edges on axes meant for cutting and large knives, axes "terminal section" are quite often finer then knives' grinds. Guess that comes from the fact that many knives aren't very wide, while having a large spine for "prybar applications" (sabre grind even make it worst).

It comes mainly from the fact that many modern "knives" are such only in the crudest sense of the world. Knifemakers who pride themselves on performance and don't follow fads don't have such geometries. Look at the grinds on knives by Krein, Wilson, Martin, Johnston, Kirk, etc. .

-Cliff

 

[Nord]

It comes mainly from the fact that many modern "knives" are such only in the crudest sense of the world. Knifemakers who pride themselves on performance and don't follow fads don't have such geometries. Look at the grinds on knives by Krein, Wilson, Martin, Johnston, Kirk, etc. .

-Cliff

Exactly, I get the impression some high end hyped knives and many of the "tactical" military style knives I have checked out were not really made to be used. Not made to be used with ease and efficiency of cutting anyway. Uncomfortable square grips that give you blisters merely by looking at them and blunt edges with way too wide edge angles. Having grown up with Moras and other such knives I was very disappointed with some knives I got later, you had to spend a lot of work regrinding the edge to be able to use them for anything but cutting paper.

 

[sherlockbonez]

Having grown up with Moras and other such knives I was very disappointed with some knives I got later, you had to spend a lot of work regrinding the edge to be able to use them for anything but cutting paper.

Agreed, one of my favortie knife is still the $20 normark puukko that my dad gave me when I was 12. Excellent general purpose knife.

 

[jca21]

wel.. i have an outcast and i believe that it perfroms just as it should for the price that i paid for it.

it is a decent chopped and its in my hiking bag, along with my semi-newly aquired R1 military as well as a spyderco endura.

the outcast to me is just a beater knife and trust me i beat the hell out of it. i've used it to dig, chop, and even carve (i made a spoon!!!) albeit quite roughly but i think its fair to say that it does what its supposed to.

if your looking for a good khukri go with a himilayan imports one. thats what i've been hearing as one of the best khuks around.

i've handled the ltc khuk from coldsteel and think its kinda big for me (im 5 foot 7) and like the outcast alot better.

a few modifications that i did was:

-cord wrap handle
-lanyard
-adding a mod. utility pouch to store my spyderco native III, a maglight, an altoids survival kit, and firesteel.

it does the job and i can easily take it into my neck of the woods and be comfortable for an overnight stay (for longer periods i rely more heavily on my multi-day kit)

but ya... back to my point..


i think the outcast is alright but i plan on trying the becker brute next. i heard its going outta production or theres some kinda problem with the camilus factory so im gonna try to get my hands on one asap.


cheers

 

[Cliff Stamp]

wel.. i have an outcast and i believe that it perfroms just as it should for the price that i paid for it.

What else have you used.

Exactly, I get the impression some high end hyped knives and many of the "tactical" military style knives I have checked out were not really made to be used.

Indeed, most are CAD knives. Knives like Mora's are designed however from actual use, there is no comparison.

-Cliff

 

[Munky]

I have an Outcast. Its pretty sweet. It is really comfortable to hold and chop with. The sheath it comes with is awesome as well.

 

[jca21]

cliff, i've tried a himilayan imports which i believe is by far one of the best i've used (drove over to my buddies house just to try it after i posted)

kershaw outcast which i own

cold steel ltc khukri

cold steel khurki machete

martindale golok #2 which is another one i'd trust my life on

the bite of the himilayan imports seems far superior but i still think my outcast is pretty decent

like i said earlier the ltc khukri was a bit big for my likes and the khukri machete just didnt cut it (i bought one for 20 bux canadian ended up giving it to a friend who wanted to clear hedges), and the golok #2 is a buddy of mines which is quite light in the hand and takes decent bites

 

[Cliff Stamp]

Some of those are pretty solid, I like the Martindale Golok as a solid working blade. Most of them, aside from the HI, tend to need a lot of work to really see what they can do. Drop me an email in the summer and I'll regrind a basic 12" machete for you, the difference between stock and optimal is close to 2:1 for chopping and massively greater for cutting. Edge retention, grip endurace, etc., everything increases.

-Cliff

 

[jca21]

where abouts would i have to ship my D2 to get it grinded by you? i live in canada so if its sending it cross-border to the states then that might be a hassel i can avoid.

but it would be wonderful if you could regring my d2 for me.

for machetes i actually think that my 12 dollar coleman machete i got from canadian tire doesnt do such a crappy job.

does what it needs to, light brush work.

cheers

 

[Cliff Stamp]

Canada will be fine, I'll drop you an email when I can do it in a few months. If you have a machete or two then I can tune them at the same time.

-Cliff

 

[Minuteman]

It comes mainly from the fact that many modern "knives" are such only in the crudest sense of the world. Knifemakers who pride themselves on performance and don't follow fads don't have such geometries. Look at the grinds on knives by Krein, Wilson, Martin, Johnston, Kirk, etc. .

-Cliff

Here is my favorite production chopping knife, bar none. Very rarely mentioned here. The Marbles Trailmaker is defintely not a fad knife -- it's a century old design. Created by people who actually used knives to cut wood. The edge geometry is nearly perfect as is the size and balance. Birds head pommel provides a VERY secure grip. Comes with a great sheath. I think the price is a bargain compared to many heavily hyped knives that don't cut worth beans. I've been through a long list of expensive knives myself that wouldn't hold a candle against it. Why it's not more popular I don't understand.

I also have a 14 inch Tramontina that I have reprofiled and put a nice rolled edge on. I've got about $10 in that, plus my time, and I would put that up against about 99% of the production "chopping" blades on the market. Even ones that cost 30 times as much. I reach for it by choice many times. Partly because I don't care what happens to it and partly because it just works so well. It's a close second to the Trailmaker. I've cut truckloads of wood with it. I don't believe it could be broken. Folded in half maybe.

All is not always as it seems and money doesn't always get you what you are after. I consider that to be a good thing...

 

[jca21]

minuteman that is a damn sexy knife.

how much did she cost?

 

[rifon2]

minuteman, just by looking at that knife
you can tell it's a great knife.

 

[rifon2]

Anyone have any experience with Ontario Spec Ops knives?

10 inch blades of 1/4' 1095 for about 50 bucks.

They look very interesting, actually I started another thread
so as not to hijack this one (any further...)

 

[Cliff Stamp]

Here is my favorite production chopping knife, bar none. Very rarely mentioned here. The Marbles Trailmaker is defintely not a fad knife -- it's a century old design.

Far older if you look at the basic blade geometry.

Birds head pommel provides a VERY secure grip.

Yeah, I like the extended pommels on the native goloks though, very secure and still comfortable even when the grip slips through heavy fatigue.

I also have a 14 inch Tramontina ...

I reground a tramontina bolo as well, excellent knife. I broke the handle through some hard pounding, used some plastic bags to make a new one and the knife is still going strong. It cost like $5 on ebay.

-Cliff

 

[Minuteman]

minuteman that is a damn sexy knife.

how much did she cost?

I bought this one a while ago, so I just did a quick Google to see what they are going for now. It seems like about $180 is the territory for a leather handled one:

http://www.amazon.com/Marbles-Trail.../002-5043147-0714455?ie=UTF8&s=sporting-goods

By the way, mine is not the stacked leather model, I put a walnut stained curly maple handle on it, so it is one of a kind. I think curly maple is great looking and I find that smooth hardwood with just a linseed oil finish is about the best material as far as grip is concerned. Just enough friction, but easy on your hand when using it for a long time. Again, not a fad, but proven to work.

These knives have been made out of a number of different steels over the years, so there is confusion regarding what they are made of. For a number of years it has been 0170-6, same as the Beckers and many other carbon steel blades. Marbles had some quality problems years ago that still seems to haunt them reputation-wise, but as far as I can tell that is old history.