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Kershaw SpecSpeedBump

nozh2002

nozh2002

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Jun 9, 2003
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Just got one:

http://www.bladeforums.com/forums/showthread.php?t=397221

Really nice package - premium G10 handle and mechanics with nice 13C26 Sandvic steel blade undervalued in US, because of low carbon content, but absence of S and P in ore make it perform much better then other still with same carbon content, so in short it is quite affordable variation - very friendly price as usual for Kershaw knives.

Thanks, Vassili.
 
I have one of the first Spec Bumps and they are awesome! I do have a Storm II and you are right the Sandvic steel is very underrated. It takes a keen edge and is easy to sharpen. I would compare it more to 440C than to Aus-8, but that is my opinion.
Vassili, I see you also have a FPR Spec. was it easy to sharpen? Also was the edge really thick? I had to thin mine quite a bit, but it cuts like a laser.
 
harrymole said:
Vassili, I see you also have a FPR Spec. was it easy to sharpen? Also was the edge really thick? I had to thin mine quite a bit, but it cuts like a laser.
Click to expand...

Not really, but I use diamond stone and diamond powder on leather - never has trouble sharpening with this. I start using it after made CPM S90V knives.

It is pretty thick, but as I understand it thin edge mean that bevels comes pretty close to edge, like on Microtech knives. Do you grind your blade or I misunderstand something?

If you mean edge angle - I put less then 15 degree on each sine - not sure exactely and with soft surface as leather it come to be bit convex anyway...

Thanks, Vassili.
 
I meant the the part of the blade behind the edge. I guess it would be the bevel above the edge. I thinned it out using the Lansky,kinda gives it a wider edge profile but isn;t so thick behind the edge.
 
harrymole said:
I meant the the part of the blade behind the edge. I guess it would be the bevel above the edge. I thinned it out using the Lansky,kinda gives it a wider edge profile but isn;t so thick behind the edge.
Click to expand...

OK, yes it is 0.04" on FPR but on SpecSpeed bump it is about 0.024". I am not sure why?

Thanks, Vassili.
 
I have heard alot about the CMP 154, I have thought about buyin one of the Spec bumps to test out the steel and the design, you all think its worth the money??
 
I do think it's worth it (I own a Blue Bump), but I don't believe you can buy the CPM 154 version anymore. Now they're either S30V or Sandvik. All three should be fine. I'm just happy to be able to buy one that doesn't have a black blade.
 
Barrabas74- I have theCPM154 model, I have had S30V and Sandvic steel blades before, I think I am really going to enjoy CPM154. I have not used it enough to judge edge retention, but edge taking it has to be the sharpest knife I have ever had! It easily surpasses my BM D2 and looks to be much finer grain. I have never tried ZDP-189 so I can't judge it by that though I have heard it takes probably the keenest edge. I would say in my opinion it is up there with M2, but is much more corrosion resistant. If you can find one I think it is worth it. I also like the cool factor and the AO.
 
и где их продают?
looks like a good tradeoff - I don't like black blades much, but I like G10
plus it's budget…
 
first of all I need to find these subforums...

upd. I've found it... I do not speak french. the first page was all in french.
 
13c26 is almost identical to uddeholm AEB-L and its probably alot better than 440c. ive heard "as close to carbon steel as it gets"..

AEB-L is a stip steel made in Sweden by Uddeholm. Composition:

C Si Mn max P max S Cr
0.68 0.4 0.65 0.025 0.015 12.8

Few know what AEB-L steel is, and those that do, only have heard that it is similar to 440B or 440A. The only similarities between AEB-L and 440B or 440A is the amount of carbon. The fact that AEB-L has only 12.8% chromium by volume compared to the 16-17% in 440A and 440B makes the steels almost as different as night and day. This makes AEB-L very balanced, it still has excellent corrosion resistance, in the same area as 440C or other popular stainless steels used in knives today. It gets very hard, up to 64 as quenched. Though AEB-L is not a powder metallurgy steel, it contains very tiny carbides, its average carbide size is eight-tenths of one micron, powder metallurgy steels have a carbide size of 2-3 microns. This gives AEB-L excellent toughness, great ease of sharpening, ease in grinding and polishing, great wear resistance, and a very keen edge to a knife. 440C has carbides at about 50 microns. A very keen edge is about one half of one micron, so when cutting, carbide p ullout happens with large carbides, the carbides are pulled like a tooth out of the blade, this makes for a toothy and hard to sharpen edge, not to mention that the carbides are virtually worthless. AEB-L also naturally forms what is called the K2 carbide, the harder of the two chromium carbides, compared to the K1 carbide, which is formed in steels such as 440C. The K2 carbide is about 79 on the Rockwell C scale, compared to 72 for the K1 carbide. Through proper heat treatment, AEB-L has fine, evenly distributed K2 carbides. AEB-L lies almost perfectly on what is called the “Carbon Saturation Line”, which means that all of the carbides formed are precipitated carbides, not primary carbides like are formed in 440C, and there is more carbon and chromium in solution than 440C. Primary carbides are very large. So, through a balanced composition, AEB-L has excellent toughness, edge retention, workability, ease of sharpening, and ease of polishing.

http://www.devinthomas.com/pages/faq.html

sandvik 13c26:

C 0.68, Si0.4, Mn 0.7, max P 0.025, max S 0.010, Cr 13
 
I know there is something special about this steel, thenks to explain it here. I also heart about absence of S and P in ore.

Thanks, Vassili.
 
Artfully Martial said:
It should have the normal stud lock as seen in the Spec Bump and Mini Mojo.
Click to expand...

After looking at several ebay stores, they all described the speed bump as having a liner lock. Weird huh?
 
Thomas W said:
Art is correct, the Speed Bump has the Stud Lock.
Click to expand...
Thank you for that response. Which of the locking mechanisms between the blue/green bump or spec/speed bump is stronger?
 
It is probably hard to tell without lab testing. But for sure Stud-Lock most convinient this days. It is easy to unlock with right or left hand, with thumb or index finger.

If you follow the link from first post you may see pictures.

Thanks, Vassili.
 
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