kershaw speed bump..

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Dustin22

Joined
Aug 10, 2012
Messages
2
i didnt see a thread for new members to say hi so sorry if i missed it.

i was wondering i just bought my kershaw speed bump from ebay and im wondering cause of the blade design how hard will it be to sharpen ?
 
Well it's not hard to sharpen, if you have the right tools. Ceramic rods work well on recurves. A sharp maker comes to mind. The Edge Pro also works well but may round off the edges of your stones.
 
never used sticks or rods before always used a wet stone and ill try a sharp maker . thanks for the info :)
 
its a pain in the butt for me, but I am extremely unskilled in the sharpening department. I use a sharpmaker, can get a straight blade scary sharp, no so much the recurves (even the modest ones like the blur and ZT350)
 
The sharpmaker is perfect for recurves. I use it to do all my maintenance sharpening, and it works like a charm. I also use the Ultra Fine Rods and my blades, straight and recurve, get scary sharp. For reprofiling I use a Lansky Diamond Deluxe +Ultra Fine & Super Sapphire hones. The first time I tried using my Lansky on my Bump, I kind messed up the edge. The recurve had a different angle than the straight part of the blade, which came like this from the factory to it really wasnt a good experiece. I pulled it out a few hours ago to fix it, and reprofile it.. it when very smooth. It looks sexy. Usually for my Recurves I can use the Lansky to sharpen them or reprofile them, but I try to finish on the UF rods of the SharpMaker, just to make the edges nice and polished a little more evenly. I would highly recommend the Sharpmaker for recurves. It can be done on the Lansky, but you might ruin it before you can fix it.

Good Luck
 
Ares1307 said:
The sharpmaker is perfect for recurves. I use it to do all my maintenance sharpening, and it works like a charm. I also use the Ultra Fine Rods and my blades, straight and recurve, get scary sharp. For reprofiling I use a Lansky Diamond Deluxe +Ultra Fine & Super Sapphire hones. The first time I tried using my Lansky on my Bump, I kind messed up the edge. The recurve had a different angle than the straight part of the blade, which came like this from the factory to it really wasnt a good experiece. I pulled it out a few hours ago to fix it, and reprofile it.. it when very smooth. It looks sexy. Usually for my Recurves I can use the Lansky to sharpen them or reprofile them, but I try to finish on the UF rods of the SharpMaker, just to make the edges nice and polished a little more evenly. I would highly recommend the Sharpmaker for recurves. It can be done on the Lansky, but you might ruin it before you can fix it.

Good Luck
Click to expand...


When using the sharpmaker, let's say I had the factory edge and just wanted to get it a bit more polished. Would you start on the brown, fine, or ultra fine rods? Also do you use the flat sides at all or just the corners? Thanks!
 
I always start from the coarsest stone if its the first time on that sharpener for that knife, so yes start with the brown. On recurves I use ONLY the corners.
 
To be more clear, the reason I start with the medium is because the factory edges always have deep grit lines, and the fine rod wont always remove those line.. so it would be shiny, but you would still have those grit lines on your edge. For example, when I sharpened my ZT 350 I started with the medium then the fine and finished with the UF rods, but when I was done the edge was nice and shiny, even reflective, but the grit lines with still there. I ended up having to use the diamond hones of my Lansky to remove those lines from my edge. I hope this makes sence.

But as a general rule FOR ME, if I have never sharpened a particular knife I ALWAYS start with the most coarse stone/rod that I have. BUT I know some people say they just touch up the blade with the fine/UF rods or a strop.. it really depends on preference, and what knife you are sharpening.

You might want to try with your least coarse rod and just see how it does. If the grit lines arnt deep you could polish it only using the Fine then UF, and if it doesnt work then just start over with the medium.

I always start with the medium because I figure thats about where the factory edge was finished at. I think its easier to start with a more coarse stone/rod, then take small steps down to polish the edge... rather than go from a very coarse edge and jump straight to Fine or UF rods. And I think the results are much better when you dont skip steps.

And I ONLY use the corners when sharpening RECURVES, but I also spend more time on each stone when doing this.. with straight edged knives I use the corners and the flats, so they get twice as much time on the rods, which is why I spend more time per rod with Recurves.

Straight Edges get 20 strokes per side on both the corners AND the flats of each rod. = 40 strokes per side per stone

Recurves get 40 strokes per side on ONLY the corners of each rod. = 40 strokes per side per stone

Does that make sence? This is just what works for ME... Im sure not everybody does this.
 
Kriller, if you have any other questions or need any help/recommendations feel free to email me. But keep in mind that Im not an expert, in fact I am pretty new to sharpening.. I just know what works for me.

ares1307@live.com
 
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