Kershaw Vapor: first impressions

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May 26, 2000
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I picked up a small Kershaw Vapor at Wal-Mart for $20. They had two, one had a better lockup, SOLD.

This is an interestingly good knife for $20. Made in China, that's how they bring to market at $20 at Wal-Mart. I'm guessing the Chinese sell these to Kershaw for $3-$4, or less. Amazing.

The lockup is pretty ok for a cheapie. Integral / frame lock. Lock tension certainly is lower than a Sebenza or the Benchmade Pinnacle, etc.

AUS-6 felt butter soft under diamond stones. Burr was easy to raise, took some persistence to cut it off finally, but did finally get a good clean shaving edge.

The design of this little knife is quite good, flows well, fits hand well, but that's Onion at work.

Blade is flat ground surprisingly, and of course the plunge shows no definition, the line around the plunge is a blur, rounded over. The blade shape is ok if you like recurves, but the tip isn't very sharply ground... looks like the final edge bevel was put on by hand, and the grinder (the person) rotated the knife and put a steep angle right at the last 2mm of edge at the tip, kind of blunting it's potential pointiness.

Pocket clip is fine... works well, is screwed to the handle very snugly against end of handle, so rides low in pocket (a good thing, IMO). Screws used for clip are big round heads, but what the heck for $20.

The thumb stud is sort of a stacked cone of concentric circles like the Sebenza, but minus the little fine edges that Reeve gets onto his stud. This stud works fine for $20.

(apparently the thumbstud is hollow (die formed or cast), as discovered by one user who sanded the top down flush with the handle).

Handle has serrations for thumb in saber grip, and near top/butt of handle, ostensibly for reverse grip.

The knife is a bit heavy for it's small size, but that's because I'm used to titanium metal handles and these are assuredly stainless (410) based on weight (and cost... did I mention this is a $20 knife?). Knife is pleasantly thin if that is something you like.

Tang lockup angle is a bit steep, lock covers 1/2 of tang, but is only about 1/2 engaged, so it will wear in fine over time but I might tweak this with a file a bit to get a fuller lockup. Lock on this one has enough friction to stay behind the tang, the other one at Wal-Mart was looser, less friction at lockup, easier to release (not dramatically so, but not a good thing either IMO).

Overall finish is bead blasted... a good approach in keeping it at $20.

I haven't tested the blade steel quality by using it yet (bought yesterday), but have low expectations for AUS-6 to start with, and am sure it'll be a very mediocre edge holder at Rc56-57 (and indeed, under the diamond stones, it's soft... only took a few minutes to reprofile to 20 deg per side). AUS-6 is a simple stainless steel: 0.55% - 0.65% carbon, 13-14.5% chrome, 1% manganese (hardenability, tensile strength) & silicon (tensile strength, toughness), 0.5% nickel (corrosion resistance).

AUS-6 has no molybdenum or vanadium like AUS-8 has. AUS-6 is basically like 420Mod and 425Mod, minus a bit of Moly and Vanadium. So it's very simple stuff, just a hardenable stainless austenitic with a dab of nickel.

Seems like this would be a good cheapie to take on a fishing trip, not for cleaning fish, just as a low-dollar-risk-if-dropped-into-the-drink folder for utility uses (cleaning fish guts out from under fingernails, cutting tie wraps, opening potato chip bags, cutting braided line).

Overall, a pretty high quality knife build for $20, with a fairly strong and potentially good lock (given a bit of wear-in or a tweak with sandpaper or file), but with cheap steel.

Nice pic of both small and large Vapor out at AG Russell's catalog:
http://www.agrussell.com/kershaw/ke-1650.html
 
Nice review, but I would like to know, how much did that knife cost. ;)
IMHO they are about the best $20 folder around.
 
The beauty or horror is that the lock will engage more just by mere opening and closing. Mine has at the 50% mark out of box and now is around 80%. As long as it doesn't exceed 100% and start pushing through the other scale.
 
Are the inside of the handle slabs rounded? Is there any blade play? Can you induce the lock to move with light to medium twisting of the blade (stick it into a piece of cardboard and rotate). How is the edge geometry, and overall quality of edge formation (hollows) and the like?

Looks like a nice knife for the price. I generally find handles like that to be fairly slick, and don't want steels that soft usually. But this one looks to have a decently shaped grip anyway.

-Cliff
 
I am not rdangerer, but I have a vapor.

Are the inside of the handle slabs rounded?

These edges are broken just enough that they will not dig into your hand.

Is there any blade play?

No blade play in any direction. Will flex slightly in the horizontal due to compression of the plastic washers that are installed between the blade and handle slabs. The amount of force required is enough to start flexing the blade. The plastic washers can be replaced with brass shim stock.

Can you induce the lock to move with light to medium twisting of the blade (stick it into a piece of cardboard and rotate).

In the out of the box condition this will cause the lock to engage a bit more (goes from about 50% to about 60% engagement.)

I disassembled mine and sprung the lock bar in a few degrees (1/16" and 5/64" allen keys are required). It now engages to about 60% and will not move.

How is the edge geometry, and overall quality of edge formation (hollows) and the like?

The blade is flat ground with a smooth blend instead of the typical plunge line. The spine is tapered evenly from about about 3/32" to about 1/32" near the tip. The edge thickness is about 1/64". The edge is ground at about 25 degrees per side. The edge looks like it was ground with a ~300 grit belt and then buffed. On my example the edge was evenly ground but quite dull (would not even scrape shave). The edge was rounded off by excessive and/or careless buffing. Regrinding the edge to ~15 degrees per side and finishing on a 1000 grit jap waterstone at ~20 degrees yielded a nice sharp edge.

Summary:

In my opinion it is one the best deals going at its price point (~20 USD). Its about 95% of a Sebenza at a small fraction of the price.

Downsides:

Soft steel, plastic washers, comes dull.
 
I'm just now looking back into this thread.

nhamilto40 has answered Cliff's questions adequately.

I would generally agree with everything that nhamilto40 wrote except this:
Its about 95% of a Sebenza at a small fraction of the price.

I'd say it's (very subjectively) about 25% of the Sebenza's performance and build quality at 7% of the price of a small, plain, new Sebenza. But still a favorable bang/buck ratio.

I wouldn't over analyze this Vapor. This is an inexpensively made knife, with cheap steel (AUS-6), but it appears to have a decent lockup for the price point.

I have the small 3" bladed model, so the handle is pretty thin, kinda small, and yeah, to Cliff's observation, I would say this is thin and small enough that it would be slick in moderate to heavy use especially if your hands were sweaty, since it's bead blasted stainless. So while sturdy enough for light to short-duration-medium utility use, it's a cheapie, and nowhere near the quality of a Sebenza (of which I have 4 currently).

I'd feel much more comfortable using a Sebbie in hard but reasonable use for a folder. Why? Small Sebbie locks up very solidly, has those rounded serrations for index finger, and handle is thicker, and the steel is better by a significant margin (BG42 @ Rc60).

The Vapor is a very good value, and that is what makes it interesting ... it is not a particularly great knife or anything. IMNSHO.

I've got a bunch of sturdy folders, from Sebbies to an RJ Martin to a couple Carsons, BM710's, BM800's, Microtech's, etc, etc.

I simply wanted a cheapie to carry in certain circumstances, but one on whose lock I could probably count on.

I don't currently own many el cheapo knives, and intend to pick up a few more to play around with before I settle on one I'll carry in when traveling on business in some situations.
 
Originally posted by thombrogan
The beauty or horror is that the lock will engage more just by mere opening and closing. Mine has at the 50% mark out of box and now is around 80%.

Interesting observation. Maybe I ought not sandpaper my locking bar face. It may wear in on it's own. And may be pretty soft (410SS).
 
Rdangerer, I wouldn't mess with the lockbar, mine went from less than 50% lockup to 90% in less than 1000 flicks.:) I thought I read that the handle was 420, but I'll defer to better memories. The VII has a very comfortable 4.5 handle that is nicely done. Better suited for my hand than the Vapor. I'm gonna get a PE VII as well. When I had mine apart, the washers appeared to be black teflon coated metal, but I didn't pay close attention.
 
Thanks for the additional information. Where would the opinon be on this knife as compared to say an Endura from Spyderco.

-Cliff
 
Well,

The Endura, assuming you mean a brand-spanking new one with VG-10 steel and a Boye dent on the lockbar, has a lot less belly, better edge retention, better piercing capabilities, and a more comfortable, yet secure handle (by way of its shape plus its volcano-textured FRN design). I don't know the relative strengths of the Endura's lockback versus the Vapor's framelock, but I just read that the locking bar of the Delica is made of 420 and the pin is 440 (so I assume that is the same with the Endura) and Spyderco's construction is superb. The opening hole doesn't dig into the skin as much as the thumbstud on the Vapor and the knife is made for ambidextrous tip-up carry. The Vapor has a recurve and more belly so it may be better suited for skinning purposes.

I say that, but I have a Vapor and don't have an Endura. I do have a Delica and like it better than the Vapor, but I don't skin anything.
 
>(apparently the thumbstud is hollow (die formed > or cast), as discovered by one user who sanded > the top down flush with the handle).

There is enough substance on the Vapor's thumbstud to grind, sand, or cut off wheel the topmost level of the thumbstud away to make it less sharp. I did that to mine with no problem.

For Cliff Stamp: I still like the Vapor, but I replaced it as my EDC with a Spyderco Delica. That's my preference, may not be yours. The Delica opens easier for me than the Vapor -- my Vapor's got a bear of a ball bearing detent holding the blade closed (that and the fact that I frequently grip the liner lock when preparing to open the Vapor, which makes it really tough to open until I reconfigure my finger away from the liner lock to the back of the pocket clip.
 
I have been carrying a Vapor 2 as my EDC for about a year. I love it for a knife that I am not scared of if I lose it, not that I want to lose it, it sharpens easy, I have used it well. For the money, it is a great knife! Paul
 
I use my Vapor as my work knife,in which it serves very well.Solid lock-up and easy to resharpen.I use it daily and have no beefs with it.However,when I first started carrying it the thumbstud came off when it was clipped to my pocket(thankfully it came off in my pocket).I used some Threadlock on it and took care of that prob.It is my beater knive and worth $20.00 I paid.My Wal-Mart now has the VII which I'd like to have(they didn't have when I got my Vapor)I think the VII might be good in a SD role.The Vapor is too small for that role IMHO.
 
My Vapor II never quite made it to a serious EDC for me because of the weight. I had some of the screws holding the handle together work loose but a little locktite fixed that problem. Overall its a good knife especially for the price but I like my Ka-Bar Dozier folding hunter better as a cheapo EDC.
 
Thanks for the details, on the Endura I was a bit vague, I didn't know they were VG-10 know. My question phrased a little more specific is how is the performance of this knives compared to an entry level one from the brands like Spyderco, Zytel grips, AUS-8A steel, etc., thinking of $40-$50. What kind of performance advantage is seen in doubling the price.

In any case it looks like there are now some really nice folders in the really low end range. The Dozier production one is also really cheap, ~20$ and usually gets very positive remarks, often even when compared to much more expensive blades.

-Cliff
 
Just got my Ka-Bar Dozier in the mail yesterday. Very favorably impressed for $18 + shipping. More later.
 
Cliff:

Amazing as it seems, the latest Spyderco Enduras and Delicas, both with VG-10, still go for around $45. That is Spyderco's entry level for full-sized blades. I think that's a heck of a deal, considering the quality of the knives.

You have to get down into the sub-2.5" category before you see some AUS-6 entries (and lower prices). The Meerkat ($30) and the Jester ($20) are the only ones that come to mind.

--Bob Q
 
My impression of the 3" Vapor compared to the Kabar Dozier is that the Dozier is the better value at about the same price point. The Kershaw AUS 6 seems too soft, and the Dozier's AUS 8 has noticibly better sharpenability, edge holding and durability. The plastic handles of the Dozier vs the SS Vapor are a matter of taste. In a 3" knife I'm not looking for extreme performance, just low weight for lightweight tasks. The Vapor's ergonomics fit me better. I'd recommend them both, at $20 they're great.

At half the price, I think the VII is a better bargain than the SS Endura, but not a better knife. Same blade steel (AUS6) with similar hardness, and similar weight. The VII can be field stripped, while the Endura can switch pockets and is half an inch longer. Again, I think they are both "best buys". I prefer the FRN Endura over the SS Endura because of the VG10 and lighter weight.
 
rdangerer said:
I picked up a small Kershaw Vapor at Wal-Mart for $20.
Did you every carry or use this extensively, just curious about long term wear/dependability.

-Cliff
 
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