Kershaw Volt. (Pics Galors!)

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Feb 27, 2005
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Perfection! Almost, so close. Honestly the knife is everything I expected it to be. Actually better. I should explain what makes this one of the best knives ever made before we get lost in the pics.
First the blade. It's nearly 4" long, decently thick, has a nice long thumb ramp for my large hand to lazily stretch out my thumb on, and a flipper for easy opening and an absolutely safe grip. No slipping up and no cutting fingers off if I break the lock.
The edge is well centered on the blade. Something that is a little less common than you'd think.
The blade is also missing many annoying things, it has no choil to eat up edge length, no re-curve to make sharpening a pain, no thumbstuds to limit cutting depth, and no hole to snag in cardboard.
And this is a manual flipper knife. I had always assumed it would be AO, and am pretty thrilled that it's not. This thing opens smooth and easy every time, and I don't have to worry about replacing a spring sometime down the road.

Kershaw put Bohler M390 on the edge and CPM D-2 on the spine. Some people might have rust problems with CPM D-2 if you live near the ocean, I am well inland, so the steel combo works great for me. The alloy mixture in M390 is pretty much the same as S30V, with some minor modifications. The major difference being a slightly more refined grain structure, which results in higher hardness/toughness. It also has a little more Carbon and Chromium, making it slightly more wear resistant (and possibly more rust resistant).
Remember these are slight differences, no miracles or incredible performance gains like you'd see out of S90V, S110V*drools* or ZDP-189.

The handle is as fully featured as you'll ever find. It uses a Titanium Reeve Integral Lock with a Hinderer Lockbar Stabilizer. It has a very nice G-10 insert (which is perfectly flush on all sides) to match the pattern on the Composite Blade, and the milling is all around fantastic with subtle curves and dips giving an organic feel, while having the fine grooved texture to improve grip, and show off the weave of the G-10.
Of course this is all normal coming from Kershaw.

This knife has no wasted space and is incredibly utilitarian while being a nearly flawless work of art at the same time.

Except one thing...



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The complaints about the clip were legitimate. I wonder if anyone at the factory actually held one of these things before ordering them for the whole batch?
Oh well, it was a relatively easy fix.
Now that it's nicely rounded the clip is as good as the rest of the knife. It carries deep, is tall enough to fit my thickest denim pocket seam, and is very low profile.

I give the knife a 8 out of 10 with the stock clip, and a 9.8 out of 10 with the modded clip. To get a 10 out of 10 it needs a distal tapered S110V blade, and a wire clip like you get on the Spyderco Caly 3.

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Along with the Volt came a Victorinox Solo. Very nice knife, fit and finish is equally as good as the Volt.

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The Volt actually has more primary grip (not including choil) handle space than the Military!
(Though the Military is still slightly more comfy with its more radical shape.)

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And it has more edge length.:eek: Unbelievable!

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Here's a shot comparing the lockup on the three knives. The Volt and Military both have curved lock faces, the lock face on the Volt is kind of odd in that it doesn't go all the way across the tang. The angle is good and the contact point is correct so I won't complain.
The best lockface of the three, by far, is on the Victorinox Solo. The consistency on that lock is unparalleled, I have absolute confidence that it will lock up exactly the same every time I use it, and never wear out or break for the rest of my life. Sometimes I wonder why we don't see more knives with quality locking mechanisms like those coming out of Victorinox.
 
If they could take out the re-curve, make the thumb studs double as the stop pin, and give it a Ti RIL handle, I'd take the ZT 0200 over the Volt.

If only...

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If you look straight down the body of the Volt, you'll see that the lines don't match perfectly between the handle and the blade. Chances are someone made a mistake with the position of the stop pin (or the pivot pin, we'll never know which), which would also explain why the lockface only goes partway across the tang, normally the grind would be a lot deeper, and thus wider, but they had to make up some extra room after misplacing the hole for the stop pin. The only way to do it was to grind less off the tang.

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Hi Joshua J. -

Very nice review, thanks! Your pictures are very nice.

Can you please elaborate on the modified clip? Did you grind one down and if so, how did you perform the work? I would do similar to mine as the clip edges are a little sharp and would benefit from some massaging.

Also, can you please explain your comments regarding the "lines not lining up" on the handle and blade? I did not follow your comments on that point.

Thanks again for posting the pictures - I just got my hands on my Volt this afternoon, so I am still discovering all the neat things about the knife.

best regards -

mqqn
 
Nice review !

The Volt reminds me of a much fancier version of the Groove , Kershaw and Martin did a great job as usual.

Tostig
 
This is one heck of a review, thank you very much :thumbup:

PS - That pocket clip is horrid :barf:
 
Hi Joshua J. -

Very nice review, thanks! Your pictures are very nice.

Can you please elaborate on the modified clip? Did you grind one down and if so, how did you perform the work? I would do similar to mine as the clip edges are a little sharp and would benefit from some massaging.

Also, can you please explain your comments regarding the "lines not lining up" on the handle and blade? I did not follow your comments on that point.

Thanks again for posting the pictures - I just got my hands on my Volt this afternoon, so I am still discovering all the neat things about the knife.

best regards -

mqqn

For the clip I just used a metal grinding disk on a Dremel, then smoothed it out with 320 grit sandpaper. I marked what I wanted removed with a sharpie before grinding.

The lines made by the separation of the two blade steels and the G-10 and Ti on the handle are supposed to form one continuous line, as is they are a few degrees off of straight. I've never seen a lock face ground out like the Volt, so it's fairly obvious why.
The angle of the blade in relation to the handle is determined by the position of the lockbar and the stop pin, in this case the stop pin is too low or the pivot pin too high. Either way the blade swings farther back than it was originally designed to, we can tell this by comparing the lines on the blade and handle. Were it not for those we would just be wondering why the lockface doesn't extend all the way across the tang.
Since grinding the lock face to a normal depth as is would have resulted in little to no contact between the blade tang and lock bar, the only way to compensate without scrapping the handles altogether was to leave more blade tang to fill the gap.

Someday I will probably find a bushing to go around the stop pin and re-grind the lockface. For now there is functionally nothing wrong with it so I'll leave it alone.
 
I just took mine apart about an hour ago to buff out the contact points on the blade pivot and the contact points on the lock with a little polishing compound. It really made the knife smooth. You can't really appreciate this knife unless you take it apart. A lot of work went into machining this tank. I did round my clip off some but I may do the more extreme mod like you did. I really like and prefer low riding, under the radar type clips, and this one is diffidently that way, but it make for a heck of a hot spot on long term use for sure.
 
For the clip I just used a metal grinding disk on a Dremel, then smoothed it out with 320 grit sandpaper. I marked what I wanted removed with a sharpie before grinding.

The lines made by the separation of the two blade steels and the G-10 and Ti on the handle are supposed to form one continuous line, as is they are a few degrees off of straight. I've never seen a lock face ground out like the Volt, so it's fairly obvious why.
The angle of the blade in relation to the handle is determined by the position of the lockbar and the stop pin, in this case the stop pin is too low or the pivot pin too high. Either way the blade swings farther back than it was originally designed to, we can tell this by comparing the lines on the blade and handle. Were it not for those we would just be wondering why the lockface doesn't extend all the way across the tang.
Since grinding the lock face to a normal depth as is would have resulted in little to no contact between the blade tang and lock bar, the only way to compensate without scrapping the handles altogether was to leave more blade tang to fill the gap.

Someday I will probably find a bushing to go around the stop pin and re-grind the lockface. For now there is functionally nothing wrong with it so I'll leave it alone.

Hi Joshua J -

I see what you are saying now - I did not notice that those lines are not perfectly aligned.

I had assumed that the machining on the tang was a new way to prevent the lock bar from traveling too far across the tang.

Thank you for taking time to explain that to me.

best regards -

mqqn
 
Great review and nice photos too, thanks for that!
what number is the knife limited on again? 250?
 
Agreed, great pics and review! I just received mine today, and agree about the pure perfection. In my pocket as I type this. I do have a question about the number on the flipper. Mine is 152, but the number is not centered but rather it is at the very edge and about 1/4 of it is not there as it looks like it was mistamped. But do I care? Not at all as the rest of the knife is absolutely wonderful!:thumbup::thumbup::thumbup::thumbup:
 
Agreed, great pics and review! I just received mine today, and agree about the pure perfection. In my pocket as I type this. I do have a question about the number on the flipper. Mine is 152, but the number is not centered but rather it is at the very edge and about 1/4 of it is not there as it looks like it was mistamped. But do I care? Not at all as the rest of the knife is absolutely wonderful!:thumbup::thumbup::thumbup::thumbup:

Your non-blem is a blem! :P
 
Thanks for a great review! Anyone have any ideas on why D2 for the second steel? Seems an odd choice to me. Almost had me sold- I like the blade shape, proportions, and design elements, hate the clip and how much the flipper protrudes when the knife is closed. I don't know why more flippers don't emulate the RAM- nice unobtrusive flipper.
 
I think that the CPMD2 is used because it gives the best contrast of dark and light with the D2 being darker of the two.

I had not noticed the rounding of the clip, but it looks great! I have simply covered my clip with some of the black 3M Stair Step tape I use on all my clips.

Honestly I was prepared to not like this knife as I was afraid it would be be too thin and too light in my hand. I had even offered it to another member here as they were having a difficult time finding one. But they did, and am I ever glad they did! This knife just feels super solid in my hand! Workmanship is excellent, and the more I handle it and just look at it, the more I like it. It slides down in my pocket and is super thin, at least to what I normally carry, but again as solid as you would want a knife to feel. I've had both the Sebenza, and the Umnumzaan, and I feel that the Volt doesn't give up anything to either. I've been really impressed with the framelocks that Kershaw has built, especially with the original Tyrade and think the Volt is right up there with it.

The comparison of the Volt to the Groove is a good one as my cousin had handed me his Groove last night to take home and sharpen. I actually gave him the Groove about a year ago as a bd present. The framelock on it has not moved from original lockup position it had the day I handed it to him and I know it is opened several times a day and not always opened slowly, or easily, if you get my drift!! The Groove has a really solid feel to it also.
 
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