KG gun-kote coating on a Busse . . ? ?

JurT

JurT

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Feb 4, 2006
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Hi there,

I was wondering if it's possible to put a gun kote coating on a Busse SFNO. It has now a satin finish. Isn't this dangerous for the heat threat because it has to be put in a oven on 180/200 degrees celcius?

Any information is welcome. Thnx in advance.:cool: :thumbup:
 
JurT said:
Hi there,

I was wondering if it's possible to put a gun kote coating on a Busse SFNO. It has now a satin finish. Isn't this dangerous for the heat threat because it has to be put in a oven on 180/200 degrees celcius?

Any information is welcome. Thnx in advance.:cool: :thumbup:
Click to expand...

Well, I think you need to ask Jerry or Garth on this one, but if I remember correctly those temperatues will have no effect on the INFI or the Micarta. I think micarta is good for something over 300 degrees.
 
I believe that Jerry stated (no I don't remember which thread) that the knife would have to be raised to 600 degrees F before the temper is changed. Hope this helps.
 
I have used Gun Kote on several things (guns and knives included) the temperature for the curing is supposed to be 300F. I have never had anything come out warped, discolored (on the parts that were not painted) or had knives not hold an edge afterwards.
300 degrees in the world of steels and alloys is not that high. its barely enough to get water to sizzle on the surface for more then a few seconds...

500 degrees is not enough to discolor steel ( tried...)
 
As for INFI and temperature extremes, it is amazing. INFI is tempered at nearly 950 degrees. It does not begin to lose any significant hardness until it is held above 1050 degrees for a considerable amount of time. I have to believe that it would need to be extremely mishandled in order to do any noticeable damage.

Most of the simpler high carbon steels (of which INFI is NOT a member) can be drawn down in temper in a matter of seconds if the temperature hits above 500 - 800 degrees.
Click to expand...


this is a quote from Jerry
 
I have a KG Gunkote on a folder and it's great. The finish was so hard on it I had to scrape it off the tang to lock. The steel was O-1.
 
But if you do it to a factory finish, we fans of satin will hunt you down and replace all your Busses with Frosts.

FOR THE LOVE OF ALL THAT IS INFI, DON'T DO IT!!!
 
Skunk can correct me, but I don't think bluing works on INFI. I believe he said quite recently that this is one way to tell if it is INFI vs the other Busse pre-INFI steels.

Cheers,
BJB :D
 
In our labs we use slotted slabs of micarta to hold material plaques and specimens during environmental cycling and heat aging. Even after long exposures (500-1000 hours) at temps up to 150°C the worst I've seen is some discoloration.

That isn't to say that there isn't any loss of physical properties, but without actual testing, it would be hard to be certain what kind of adverse effects might be experienced.
 
BillyJoeBob said:
Skunk can correct me, but I don't think bluing works on INFI. I believe he said quite recently that this is one way to tell if it is INFI vs the other Busse pre-INFI steels.

Cheers,
BJB :D
Click to expand...

I thought just the opposite.
INFI will not blue and the old A2 knives will.
Some of the A2 knives even came with blueing on the handles.

piglet
 
infi tempers are lost at 900 degrees ferenheit if i remember correctly.

i would try to avoid testing it regardless, keeping the temps as low as possible
 
Regardless of the temps, people pay good money for satin finishes all the time. I've never heard of any one paying to coat a satin finish!

I would not do it. INFI is rust resistant enough that it's not necessary.
 
Mulder said:
I thought just the opposite.
INFI will not blue and the old A2 knives will.
Some of the A2 knives even came with blueing on the handles.

piglet
Click to expand...

Me thought that is what I said! I'll get around to English some day.

Cheers,
BJB ;D
 
With the market on satin finishes blowing up lately, you will be costing yourself a lot of value in your collectible Busse.

Of course if you are trying not to be a target in Iraq, I understand your motives.

Still, if you have the time, trading for a factory coated SNFO plus cash might be a better path.
 
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