Kukri, hands down.
What most people don't understand is that the Ka-Bar and Cold Steel kukri machetes do not represent kukris very well.
First of all, you have wide variations between kukri, you can get them from 12" (OAL) to 25"+. Spines from 1/4" to over 1/2". Another thing not realized is that a kukri with a 1/2" spine doesn't stay 1/2" down to the bevel and then go to a zero edge bevel, which is what is usually implied when the "sabre grind" is lamented. They begin a curved taper, almost like a hollow grind -- even models without pronounced fullers or Ang Khola (Back Hollow), have a curved taper to them. Then the bevel is a shallow convex to the edge. I go through all that to say that even though they make excellent choppers, when properly sharpened (i.e. actually sharp) they are a big, curved scalpel that can easily cut grassy vegetation with just a flick of the wrist or let the thing freely swing using it's own momentum and very little of your own muscle power.
Splitting: You can use pretty much any splitting technique that works with a hatchet. If you simply must baton, it's easy with the kukri. Your wrist adopts a more natural angle as you bet the hell out of the blade. I really see no disadvantage here.
Detail work: The very wide front end of the kukri makes it easy to hold onto. A complaint was lodged about this being problematical due to weight. I'd bet the person(s) trying to use it and thought it was too heavy were moving the blade. No, you hold the blade still in hand, between your feet, wedged in a log, etc, and move what you are working over it. That's if you want to discount the karda. But the Nepali are smart enough to include the karda and chakma in the sheaths of their heavier kukri intended for use in the field for a reason.
Sharpening in the field: not hard. Yopu have the chakma (sharpening steel), or you can use a ceramic rod to steel the edge. Usually this is all you'll need -- in the field. If you're worried about it, take a Diafold or other diamond hone, and you just follow the curvature of the convex bevel. If you're worried about the recurved portion, the chakma/ceramic rod works fine, and that portion of the blade isn't used much, so a major sharpening project isn't needed in most cases.