khukri vs KLO (khukri-like-object)

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Aug 26, 2006
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i just recieved a 15" HI boomerang from hollowdweller, and decided to compare it to the cold steel kukri style blade that i have been loving and talking up every chance i get.

to start with, they aren't too far apart in weight, in sheaths there is a 3/4 pound difference, but when comparing the actual bladers there is only 6 oz (1/2 pound) difference. i found it interesting that the longer length of the CS moved the balance point out far enough so that they feel about the same weight when held at the handle.

when looking at them, one would expect the HI to feel like a prybar and the CS to feel like a mora, but i was rather surprised that they feel rather similar in heft.

the CS has an 1/8" thick spine and the HI measures at about 3/8" thick at the handle. both are slightly hollow ground, but i gave them shaving sharp conved edges.

the sheath on the HI is much nicer, and also carries the accessory knife and the polishing steel, neither of which i use often, but i have used the accesory knife before. i think in the future i might make a pair of small knives to fit in there instead, because the knife isn't too high in quality, it almost looks like it was just kinda slapped together as an afterthought, not like the kukri itself. and i don't use the steel at all, i prefer a strop.

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when chopping, i noticed that the CS stuck a bit more in small diameter branches, but that they chopped with similar effort and efficiency;
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then i took these to some larger wood, maybe around 4" in diameter;
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40 chops with each of them, and they both cut about the same size notch. the HI was a bit easier to use in this regard, becuase it didn't stick as badly (at all really) and it popped out chips a bit easier. the CS stuck on almost every strike, taking more effort and time to pull it out after each whack. not a huge difference, but noticeable.

i didn't baton any wood in this review, but i know from experience that both work fine. the nod goes to the HI because of the very thick blade that wedges wood apart better with less force (though slightly more initial force).

shaving fuzzies both worked fine, though they were a bit akward. i felt a tad better with the HI because of the Cho (is that right?) to tell me where the edge started, but both worked fine. i just had to be a bit more careful with the CS.
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so all in all, someone would be fine with either knife. people are always saying that a real khukri is vastly better than an KLO, but in my opinion, they are only a little bit better, and for the beginner, perhaps not enough better to warrant the high price tag. at any rate, a KLO is a good place for someone to start to see if they like the blade style, from there they can retire it, give it away, or keep it for a beater if they move on.

another feature i really like about the HI is that it is alot of blade in a fairly small package, making it easy to pack in a bag without anything poking out anywhere. good to carry it somewhere when you don't want to draw any attention (sheeple country or travelling through town on foot or bike as i often do)
 
Thanks for that, siguy. I was shocked to find out that some of my thin machetes chopped as well as my heavy choppers. Those Kukri machetes work fine.
 
horndog, i was also somewhat surprised when i put these two up against eachother yesterday.

its also kindof amazing what an advantage these have over a straight machete in terms of chopping power.

i think that it really boils down to the curved belly and the penetration these give in the wood, even more than the shearing effect i always hear about when kukris come up. i'm sure the shearing effect is more important when cutting softer stuff, like animals for butchering or softer woods and vegetation, but for chopping hardwood i think it really comes down to the belly really biting deep.
 
I have a CS Gurkha Kukri in Carbon V that is 5/16" at the spine. But I also have a cheap kukri machete. I put a convex edge on it today, along with my CS Barong machete and Sheffield Golok.
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The golok came out nice.
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very sweet convex edges on those blades there..

what machine/belts are you using?
 
I'm using a cheap 1 x 30 belt sander from Harbor Freight. I took the steel down with cheap 80 grit belts, then went to 180 when I finally got a wire edge, then 20 micron and 15 micron 3M finishing belts.
 
Nice comparison simon...........Really informative:thumbup:

I dig that HI man, but its nice o see that the othe one toed the line as well. cool.
 
people are always saying that a real khukri is vastly better than an KLO, but in my opinion, they are only a little bit better, and for the beginner, perhaps not enough better to warrant the high price tag.

Test both blades according to Uncle Bills standards and then see if it's worth it.
http://www.himalayan-imports.com/faq/Testing.htm
The warranty on your HI, if needed, is also vastly superior to any that Cold Steel offers.

I can see that your observation has been made based on using one style of khukuri. The boomerang wouldn't be my first choice due to it's pronounced forward curve. An Ang Khola or a WW2 would be a better benchmark for khukuri performance.

You also neglected to mention the complete lack of soul the kraton handled CS possesses.The aesthetics of a hand forged khukuri cannot be replicated by a machine. And each khuk is ceremonially blessed before it leaves the shop. :thumbup:
 
No one will ever convince the faithful that a cheap mass produced version of any knife can work as well as their favorite. I too appreciate the fine workmanship of the HI kukris. They are art. I only have one, but I'm sure I'll pick up some more. But my Cold Steels work just as well. And my Moras cut as well as my Busses, too.
 
I've never owned a a CS but the blade is wide enough spine to edge to where I'd imagine that they would chop decently.

However I will second what Bruche said. A 17" Ganga Ram is vastly different than that boomerang. While I think that the curve of a khuk is part of it's chopping power, I think something with a real extreme curve to the blade cuts down on the chopping efficiency somewhat.

Now I'd like to see it up against a Ganga Ram, or WW2 or Bonecutter. Not saying the results would be vastly difft but they MIGHT;)
 
No one will ever convince the faithful that a cheap mass produced version of any knife can work as well as their favorite. I too appreciate the fine workmanship of the HI kukris. They are art. I only have one, but I'm sure I'll pick up some more. But my Cold Steels work just as well. And my Moras cut as well as my Busses, too.

What model HI?
 
horndog, i use a similar setup, just different belts. i use the belts from leevalley under their sharpening section designed for cutting steel...just used one of the 80 grits to do a nice full flat grind on some 1" wide by 1/8" thick steel...very nice belts. i think the 40 grits lose their edge too fast because of the very large grit size, so the 80s tend to last longer cutting better in my opinion so far.

barberfobic, that is somewhat limited, especially for reprofiling blades, but it works great for what it is! i use this for final polishing of my edges down to .5 micron film...

bruche, good points there, but i'm going to pull the infamous "i don't do that with my blades" card...i don't pry with my blades period-apart from prying out splits when batoning sometimes. it is a good general strength test though, and perhaps something i should start checking. BUT-he is doing these tests on heavy blades, most kukris are around the same thickness as mine it seems, and these naturally will hold up to more than something like the 1/8" steel that the CS is made of.

the aesthetics are a totally different ball park, i really don't look too much at easthetics when i'm choosing a blade to tell you the truth, i really just look at how it will perform. i don't mind ugly tools as long as they hold up. it is true that the HI is much more pleasing to look at then the CS, and that i wouldn't hesitate to put the HI up as a decoration, whereas the CS belongs in a drawer. but that is also reflected in the purpose of the tool, the HI is designed to be a lifelong partner for everything and the CS is designed to be a budget blade that performs well.

by the way, i forgot to mention ergonomics-
both handles are shaped with the traditional bell at the back of the handle to hold the hand in place well. i found that before my hands were toughened up this season that both irritated my hand until i developed calluses. after that though, both have great retention. the rubber CS handle absorbs a bit more shock, but the HI doesn't put out too much shock to begin with, so it doesn't really bother me.

also, you might notice a thong hole on the CS and non on the HI, as well as a lanyard on the CS. i put that there when i was using it in the rain one day and decided i didn't want to throw it by accident, it was getting a bit slippery. apart from that day, i haven't used it at all and keep it tied up and out of the way so i don't chop it off by accident. by the same token, i don't miss having a lanard at all on the HI, and if i wanted one, i could tie a forward lanyard around the Cho.
 
hollowdweller, i remember you mentioning the shock in your review, that's why it occurred to me to mention it. my guess is that i just have youth on my side, so no achy joints or anything. that will probably change in the future, but for now its not an issue. i would be interested in trying a stick tang kukri at some point, i have never chopped with a stick tang knife before (except for the CS, but i'm not sure that counts)
 
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