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Kikou matsuda knives?!
- Thread starter Camden
- Start date
Stacy E. Apelt - Bladesmith
ilmarinen - MODERATOR
Moderator
Knifemaker / Craftsman / Service Provider
- Joined
- Aug 20, 2004
- Messages
- 38,488
He acid etches his blades.
You will have to experiment, but what is done is to spatter some varnish or enamel paint on the blade. That will resist the acid, and make the white places. Then etch the blade in acid or FC and after the etch is done, remove the resist paint with acetone. Rub the blade with 4/0 steel wool to buff by hand.
You will have to experiment, but what is done is to spatter some varnish or enamel paint on the blade. That will resist the acid, and make the white places. Then etch the blade in acid or FC and after the etch is done, remove the resist paint with acetone. Rub the blade with 4/0 steel wool to buff by hand.
Excellent thanks!!
Stacy E. Apelt - Bladesmith
ilmarinen - MODERATOR
Moderator
Knifemaker / Craftsman / Service Provider
- Joined
- Aug 20, 2004
- Messages
- 38,488
Some more details:
Take a small stiff bristle brush. Dip it in the paint, and shake it at a piece of paper with a knife shape traced on it ( put down newspaper and do this outside). Try swinging shakes, poking shakes, hitting the brush with a stick from the side, etc. See what type of strokes make what type of pattern. Vary the distance, the force, the direction (up-down, side-to-side ), the paint thickness, etc. When you find a procedure that works repeatably, WRITE IT DOWN. Try it several times with a new piece of paper until you can do it three times in a row with predictable results.
Now, clean the completed blade and do not touch or get an oil on it. Place on a sheet of clean kraft paper. Do the spatter pattern, and if good let it sit until dry. If not right, clean off with acetone and wash again. Once that side is dry, turn the blade and place on a new clean sheet of paper. Do the other side and let dry. Once dry, etch the blade in FC, vinegar, dilute acid, or your etchant of choice. Etch a bit more than you want, as the final finish will be lightened in buffing with steel wool. Once the blade is cleaned, remove the resist with acetone or paint thinner. Wash well, neutralize the etchant, boil the blade for half an hour, dry, and buff with 4/0 steel wool.
Depending on the etchant and time in the tank, the white areas may even be slightly raised from the dark areas.
This method will work very well with Parkerizing, which may be what kikou uses to give a fairly permanent and dark coat.
Final note:
If you have a simple character or kanji that you want to mark on the blade, carefully paint it on the blade before the spattering. It will show up as a white area ,too. If you have already etched or stamped your makers mark, paint an oval or circle over it, so it will not be messed up in the etching. When cleaned up, the mark will be in the center of the shiny oval/circle.
Take a small stiff bristle brush. Dip it in the paint, and shake it at a piece of paper with a knife shape traced on it ( put down newspaper and do this outside). Try swinging shakes, poking shakes, hitting the brush with a stick from the side, etc. See what type of strokes make what type of pattern. Vary the distance, the force, the direction (up-down, side-to-side ), the paint thickness, etc. When you find a procedure that works repeatably, WRITE IT DOWN. Try it several times with a new piece of paper until you can do it three times in a row with predictable results.
Now, clean the completed blade and do not touch or get an oil on it. Place on a sheet of clean kraft paper. Do the spatter pattern, and if good let it sit until dry. If not right, clean off with acetone and wash again. Once that side is dry, turn the blade and place on a new clean sheet of paper. Do the other side and let dry. Once dry, etch the blade in FC, vinegar, dilute acid, or your etchant of choice. Etch a bit more than you want, as the final finish will be lightened in buffing with steel wool. Once the blade is cleaned, remove the resist with acetone or paint thinner. Wash well, neutralize the etchant, boil the blade for half an hour, dry, and buff with 4/0 steel wool.
Depending on the etchant and time in the tank, the white areas may even be slightly raised from the dark areas.
This method will work very well with Parkerizing, which may be what kikou uses to give a fairly permanent and dark coat.
Final note:
If you have a simple character or kanji that you want to mark on the blade, carefully paint it on the blade before the spattering. It will show up as a white area ,too. If you have already etched or stamped your makers mark, paint an oval or circle over it, so it will not be messed up in the etching. When cleaned up, the mark will be in the center of the shiny oval/circle.