kiln for heat treat?

S

stax

Joined
Jan 6, 2009
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146
Does anyone know if a potters kiln works for heat treating? This one goes to 2300 degrees and it's cheap. Any info would be helpful.
 
I looked a while ago and had decided that the models I had looked at did not lend precise enough control to be much use. In the end I decided it would be cheaper in the first place to just build my own.

If it's cheap enough it might be woth getting just to use as the kiln body, which you could then wire the controller and TC to. Keep in mind though that mine cost about $200 total.
 
I saw one for sale in the news paper today for $100. Not sure what it needs for power etc.. It's a Gare 2300, 230V. Would it take some heavy wiring?
 
I'm sure it would be a great start and you could probably keep the same heating elements which would be great and well worth the cash in my opinion. It's not terribly difficult to set up a PID in any case and you may not even have to depending on what's running it right now.

The materials alone cost me around $125 so you'd already be ahead.
 
I used a small pottery kin for several years before I upgraded to my Paragon Knifemakers Oven. I wouldn't recommend a top loader though, the one I used opened in the front.
 
I use a front load kiln that was made for ceramics, its great, I converted to 220v and added a pid. Total cost much less than a ready made. If you get a good price its not hard or expensive to add a pid to control the temp. The wiring for 220v is not heavier than for 120 since each leg pulls 13 amps and a small household breaker is usually 15 amps more typical now is 20 amp. You do need access to 220v. If you have an electic cloths dryer you have 220 wired, if so you can just put a clothes dryer plug on your wiring and plug in.

I had to add 2 breakers to my box and run a 220v line through the attic and add a new 220v plug. But I know how to do those things.

Another thought is you can disconnect one of the elements and run it on 110v. Would make it heat up slower but would work. If this is a large kiln it may reduce the upper limit on the temp, but could go to 1500 1700 f ok.

Ditto on the top load, no way would I put part of my body near 2300 f.
 
Last edited:
Patrickknives said:
Another thought is you can disconnect one of the elements and run it on 110v. Would make it heat up slower but would work. If this is a large kiln it may reduce the upper limit on the temp, but could go to 1500 1700 f ok.
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This may be crazy but could one put the upper element on a plug in and plug it in to another circuit on a seperate breaker. Could a PID be made to run 2 relays and control the 2 seperate circuits or maybe even both circuits on one relay?
 
You could only use two different plugs if they are on seperate circuits (two different breakers, and each fed from a different main) otherwise you have 220v which is just two mains going into the same room.

Looking closer at your post the answere is yes, the controller is most likely working on 120 and is switching two 120 volt mains so in theory you could use two different plugs if they are on different breakers.

Interestingly the room lights and plugs should be and typically are on two different breakers.
 
Kilns work just fine, as long as you have a digital controller. I have one and I love it, mine is a top loader. Knife maker HT ovens are the same thing as pottery kilns just a slightly different shape and horizontal, with a controller built in.
Del
 
delbert ealy said:
Kilns work just fine, as long as you have a digital controller. I have one and I love it, mine is a top loader. Knife maker HT ovens are the same thing as pottery kilns just a slightly different shape and horizontal, with a controller built in.
Del
Click to expand...

Speak more to me of this! :)

Seriously, I bought a Paragon Q-11 "cup kiln" a couple of months ago for curing lost-wax molds and the lady made me a silly good deal on a 55a to go with it. I'd like to use it, but haven't figured out how to do so safely & efficiently.

Mostly what bugs me is the idea of heating that huge volume.
 
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