Kinda screwed up my guard... salvageable?

A

Adam H.

Joined
Apr 5, 2010
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So long story short, my guard has about a 1 mm gap in its width. Is there anything I can do to get it to fit again? Bash it a few times with a hammer? Generous use of epoxy? This is my first build, and was having a hard time getting this pre-made guard onto the blank, and without a thin enough file I had to resort to rolled up sandpaper. I don't have a dremel or drill press to make my own, and the thing was fifteen bucks, so I really hope there is something I can do. :(
 
What's it made of?

If it's brass or something relatively soft, you might be able to squeeze it together. I'd try the vise to squeeze it. Hammering it carefully might be a good backup.

I'd scrap the extra epoxy idea unless you just want the practice finishing it out. Too much epoxy to fill a gap will just look like a mistake.
 
Yes, sorry, it's brass.

Problem is that's thick!

GBGLBR_550.jpg


3-1/8" long, 5/32" thick, and 15/16 " wide. Could squeezing it on a vice work for something this chunky?
 
Yeah, it will squeeze. I don't know about how much. I've found that it doesn't work well to squeeze a big gap but it will a little.

I re-read your original post. I would say definitely finish it out for the practice. Just make sure the gap left, if any, is filled with epoxy as you said. Squeeze any gap out that you can though.
 
You can squeeze it down some. On the back side you can take a center punch and drive the material closer on to the blade to close up the gap from the back side. That way when you put your handle on it will hide it with the handle.
 
Another option would be to make a spacer to go in front of the guard. Use thin material like brass. You can get this at a hardware store. Make the spacer smaller than the guard. You can even do decorative filework on the edge of the spacer. I would still try the squeeze anyhow and Mike's center punch method.
 
If you know how to braze then braze it up and try again. If you don't you could probably have it done for a few bucks. 5/32" is not that thick and I would be worried about it cracking if you start squeezing it.
 
It's not going to crack just squeezing that little bit. Brazing would make things uneven still and require some sort of clean up. If it's not going to be fixed by squeezing or hammering, I'm not sure it's worth brazing.

I think the next best idea is the one about making a spacer piece like Brtatck said. That would be a great way to cover it if it doesn't work and it lets you practice fitting one right. All you need is a file or two for that too.
 
I've closed up over sized gaps like that on even thicker and heavier pieces. You can hold it on edge on a hard solid chunk of steel (anvil) and hammer the gap back closer together. 1mm isn't thaaaaaat much. Just do it a little at a time and test the fit a lot. You should be able to develop a sense for how hard and much to whack it. Flip it over from time to time to hit it from both edges.

You might be able to do it with a vise, sometimes the solid metal on either end of the slot will hold the vise back though and prevent much progress. If you put the piece perpendicular to the vise rather than parallel that wouldn't be an issue though. A hydraulic press, like an arbor or bearing press, would be another way to go.

I like to hit stuff though! :D

Good luck, and let us know how it goes.
 
Fix the first problem first. Go and buy some files appropriate to the job.

Then make your face plate/spacer:thumbup:


Peter
 
Oh, I like the spacer idea! That would be much easier, and a little less risky I think. I might try squeezing it though, or at least a few hammer taps.
 
when i started out making knives i ran into the same problem once. i found out i could peen the guard down around the slot and sand i flat. then i would clamp the blade in a vise and drive the guard down until it stopped. then i would lightly sand it down until it was flat again. if there were any gaps i would peen it down again until all gaps were gone and file it flat again.
 
You could squeeze it as much as it will go, then if you still have a little gap you could use this guard for soldering practice... Generally you don't want to try to fill gaps or a sloppy fit with solder, but if you reduce the gap by even half first, then solder, the result when cleaned up should be nice. Epoxy looks like crap with even a little gap.
 
The file to use is called a Warding file. They are thin for use in lock work. Most large hardware dealers have them. Some sticker shock but not too bad and they last a long time.
BTW, I always hit it a lick or two, big hammer - light blows, before finishing. Just to make sure!
Just what I do,
Lynn
 
You can also buy standard cheap files and grind them thinner to fit.

It really helps to grind at least one of the other edges off too.
They call this a safe edged file and it will cut right up to the edge without cutting a surface that is already to size.

safeedgefile06.jpg
 
There are several options for a loose fitting guard:
Hammer/squeeze it from the side to close the gap. It may be necessary to do some other hammering to straighten things up after closing the gap, and the guard will need to be re-filed to shape after the fit is right.

Make a decorative plate for the guard front/back. This is called a seppa on Japanese blades and is very common. It is easy,cheap, and takes care of the problem. Make the piece any shape you like, but long thin ovals or diamond shapes look good. Filing the edges to a scallop shape makes for a custom look ,too. You can solder the seppa in place if needed, but usually it is just held tight by the pressure against the shoulders at the ricasso. Doing this in a contrasting material makes this plate show better, but it can be done in the same material as the guard for minimal show.

Take a small ball peen hammer and polish the ball end. Use this hammer to hammer finish the whole guard. This hammer toned guard can give a cool old-western blacksmith look. It will also close up the gap if done properly. Start along the slot, working both sides evenly.

Not common anymore, but an old technique was to use two thin copper shims on each side of the blade where it goes through the slot. These were just thick enough to make for a forced on fit of the guard. They are trimmed flush after the guard is in place. This technique was popular during the days when sword/knife hardware was too valuable to discard just because the blade was broken. Japanese tsuba are still fitted in place with two copper pieces. I sort of like the ancient look of copper shims on the side of a big blade. The assembly can be soldered to seal the joint just as would be done for a normal soldered guard, if desired. The same thing can be done using brass shim stock,too. Done with brass and properly burnished when done, the filler material may be nearly invisible.
 
I want to thank everyone for their help. I got a nice set of needle files which has made all the difference. I've hammered most of the gap away, and I have fashioned a spacer from some copper pipe to go between the guard and the blade. I'm in the process of drilling the slot in it right now, and after some high-grit sandpaper and some decorative filing, I think it will look pretty nice. The guard fits really tightly now, and in fact takes a great deal of effort to add and remove from the blade.

Do you suggest sealing off the copper spacer with a clear coat of rustoleum? Or letting it darken and form a patina with the brass over time?

I've got some gabon ebony (really nice, pure black pieces) for the handle. I promise to post finished pictures here for everyone to see how your advice contributed to my first knife!
 
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