Just wanting to buy something that's ready to go at this point. Should some nice old axe head come my way, I'd enjoy tuning it up and hanging it anew. I'm not especially skilled at that, but done it enough that I can manage a decent job. (Mis-hits with full size mauls gave me opportunities to practice, before I switched to the Fiskars). But I'm not so interested in taking the time to seek and evaluate old pieces of steel, either online or in person.
Kindling generally, and mini-mauls specifically
- Thread starter JackJ
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Just wanting to buy something that's ready to go at this point. Should some nice old axe head come my way, I'd enjoy tuning it up and hanging it anew. I'm not especially skilled at that, but done it enough that I can manage a decent job. (Mis-hits with full size mauls gave me opportunities to practice, before I switched to the Fiskars). But I'm not so interested in taking the time to seek and evaluate old pieces of steel, either online or in person.
A fool-proof way to check(don't quote that in a bad scenario
) is to look at the bit. The far right is ideal, the middle 3 are typical, and far left is splitter maybe. Notice the bits are thin at the top and "swell" in the middle like this (). It's terrible I know but that is what it should look like from the front.
) is to look at the bit. The far right is ideal, the middle 3 are typical, and far left is splitter maybe. Notice the bits are thin at the top and "swell" in the middle like this (). It's terrible I know but that is what it should look like from the front.
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I have 5-6 available that fit this description if you are interested at a small fraction of the cost of that Gransfors. If interested let me know. All are good heads on tight handles, although I charge more if you want me to profile/sharpen it for you.
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You could do worse than a Vaughan Riggers Axe. 1-3/4 pounds. 18" handle. Made in America of high quality steel. It's a little thin but that's not a big deal for a kindling axe. And you could baton it with a soft face hammer or wooden maul. It's less than $40 and has a nice hard hammer face. You can truly rely on a Vaughan hammer face.
http://www.vaughanmfg.com/shopping/Products/RB-28-oz-Rig-Builders-Hatchet__20420.aspx
Here are some of my house axes and other good kindling hatchets just to give you ideas. The 4 on the left are all in the 1-3/4 to 2-pound range and mounted on 19" handles.
On top is a Plumb Dreadnaught that is almost unused. I have no doubt it would be the best kindling maker of the bunch but I wouldn't dream of using it because of it's condition and rarity. Below that is an old 'Ideal Ridge' from American Axe and Tool. It's pretty good but because it's well worn its thicker at the bit than I like for a kindling axe. Below that is a Cooper Tools era Plumb house axe. That's the one I'm currently using in my house. Below that is pretty nice Vaughan 'Value Brand' house axe that I picked up at an estate sale for a few bucks on that handle. It's equivalent to the Cooper Plumb and does a great job.
To the right of those is a 1-3/4 pound claw hatchet on an 18" riggers axe handle. It's a surprising good little splitter just because of the weight and handle length. And it's cheeks are slightly convexed. On the far right is the venerable Tommy Axe. That also came in a clawless Tomahawk version. Either has good weight and geometry for use as a house axe. But the stock handles are short on those and they would do better on a house axe handle.
disduster
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Saw this thread last week and wanted to weigh in as i just got a estwing firewood friend. I burn wood for about 85% of my heat and split kindling so my wife and i have easy fire starting. The firewood friend works good for what it is a splitting wedge on a handle. The weight and geometry of it will get it through cord wood splits. I wish the handle was a little longer. I prefer and have been using a fiskars x11 splitting hatchet which works great for splitting kindling but is a little light for splitting cord wood. But i think i found a little harmony with these 2 tools together. I have processed kindling this way for a while now and i works great for me. I take my cord splits and buck them with a sawzall then split slabs off of those short chunks. Then just split off those matchsticks from the slabs. Sawzall(with a pruner blade) for the bucking, estwing firewood friend for the slabs and the fiskars X11 for matchsticks(they generally are around thumb size give or take). Shorter wood splits easier generally. Trying to use a shorter lighter typical single bit through full size cords(16"-20") can be a pain sometimes, you know knots grains species. I think the smaller special purpose tools like these have their place in the wood burners kit. Sometimes you need a 8# maul sometimes you need a 4# splitting axe, Use both tools at the right time in unison and be more efficient. Some pictures to illustrate, took me just over a hour to make about a months worth of kindling. I have a few house axe size axes as well and they work great too plus if thats all you got, that one tool can just about do it all.
image by Ian Hockensmith, on Flickr
image by Ian Hockensmith, on Flickr
image by Ian Hockensmith, on Flickr
off topic but...just starting building my 5th 6 pallet stack(2 more in the backyard). Hooray 3 seasons worth of split cord wood, I burn bout 6 or 7 cords a years.
image by Ian Hockensmith, on Flickr
image by Ian Hockensmith, on Flickrimage by Ian Hockensmith, on Flickrimage by Ian Hockensmith, on Flickroff topic but...just starting building my 5th 6 pallet stack(2 more in the backyard). Hooray 3 seasons worth of split cord wood, I burn bout 6 or 7 cords a years.
image by Ian Hockensmith, on Flickr