Kitchen KITH

P

PoolQs

Joined
Feb 5, 2014
Messages
93
Just finished this one up for a KITH progam. I want to make another as I know that this one is not
totally to the specs of a "Knifemaker". I would like your comments and critiques on the points you see
for improvement and what things I got lucky and did right :D This was knife #6 for me

1084 rc 60
304 SS dovetailed bolsters
11" boning knife with full tang taper
Padouk wood handles
Brass rod pins

photo32.jpg
[/URL][/IMG]
photo1-2.jpg
[/URL][/IMG]
247e4236-c06e-4450-9612-de0e0294341b.jpg
[/URL][/IMG]

Thank you for looking and your help !!!
Troy
 
Handle and bolsters looks great....blade looks OK....the place between them looks bad. That huge lump will make the blade's last several inches hard to use. It looks like the blade was 1/2" wider and got ground down.
 
I was thinking the same as Stacy. Was that intended, or did you actually end up having to grind the edge higher than you wanted to? I like the dovetail joint for the bolster, that's pretty sweet. I'd use matching steels for the bolsters and pins, so either stainless, or brass, but not a mix. That, and most everything else (aside from the functional issue that Stacy brought up), is purely subjective, and doesn't really matter.

I hope non of this comes across as jerky or anything. It's clear you have talent. :) I should also mention that I've made but one knife, so take that into account.
 
bladsmth said:
Handle and bolsters looks great....blade looks OK....the place between them looks bad. That huge lump will make the blade's last several inches hard to use. It looks like the blade was 1/2" wider and got ground down.
Click to expand...

Thanks for the honesty sir !!! The blade design was actually the way I had it on paper. Until you said "got ground down", I never looked at it that way. Now that you say that, it does have that appearance .... grrrrrr !!!
The hump was to be more of a finger guard for slippage, again, didn't think about the usage of the last several inches with that.

Strigamort - Thank you also for your input. My thoughts about the pins was to give a better looks in color contrast to the wood and not to the bolsters. I didn't even consider SS pins with the light color wood.

This is why I posted these pix and asked for constructive criticism. I know I will get positive reinforcement for the next project and others to come.
Thanks you again !!!
Troy
 
In addition to Stacy & Strig posts.

Your knife look like it tapered from tang butt to bolster (also does it extend all the way to the tip)? If so, it has a unique look.

Normally I taper tang start thick from bolster/choil gradually thinner toward the tang butt. Tapering aids visual and weight balance. Boning blade need to be narrow and strong tip, so distal taper might make the tip too fragile for maneuvering around and contact bones.
 
Thanks for commenting bluntcut. Yes, it is tapered from heel to tip. I took some measurements so you and others can let me know if the tapering is correct.
I know that most like the taper to go thinner towards the tang butt, but I was going for more weight in the back to lesson the weight up front to the tip. I hope that I
wasn't wrong in that thinking. Here are the measurements: Heel - .109 mid-handle - .0845 bolster/choil - .063 mid-blade - .046 1cm from tip - .0355 tip - .0255
Thanks again for everyone's help!
Troy

3b58d9d8-75da-4609-a9cb-24dbbe9d77e8.jpg
[/URL][/IMG]
 
Last edited:
My design in general when a knife profile allows, I aim to have a balance point at the index finger. For pinch-grip knives (7+" chef/gyuto etc..) I aim for balance point at the thumb nail. When making a full tang, I keep in mind that metal is about 7 times heavier than wood.
 
I make some of my patterns with fairly thick metal in the tang, either tapered as shown (all the way from heel to tip) or simply full thickness throughout- usually .150- ish.
It's surprising how many people actually prefer some weight in the handle- though my preference matches what's currently popular on this forum, light handles and weight forward, but I make all kinds simply because my customer base likes em.

That bump is kind of different- to a person who designs knives it would look like there's extra steel there.
I tend to feel that good design follows good function like a shadow, but heck- it's not bad looking at all, kind of different, kind of fun.
If YOU like it, then it's right. Make ten more with variations and see which you like most :)
 
I actually like the taper quite a bit. I've been thinking about doing the same just to see how it looks so I'm glad you posted the knife.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top