Kitchen Knife Designs

Stark Knives

Stark Knives

Joined
Mar 19, 2010
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1,154
Hey guys, I was just wanting some input on these designs for an 8" chef's knife and a 3.5" paring knife. I was planning on using AEBL steel.

Do you think these would work well?

The specs are in red:

14132379162_96db6239d0_c.jpg


13948698300_6db9986f85_b.jpg
 
The paring knife looks great. The distance from the bottom of the handle of the chefs knife should be at least `1.5 inches - 2 inches is better. The handle of the chefs knife should be at least 5 inches - I don't know why but everyone I have made a knife for likes 5 inches or longer. Ask Devin Thomas what Rc he would recommend for AEB-L.
Tim
 
your chef looks wesrern and your parer blade lilky has too much height at th heel (looks more like a short utility blade )

there are so many styles of kitchen knives its hard to go wrong but can still be tricky to get things just right

blade shape is only part of the trick. the rest is about angles be it th engl of the grind and th angle of the handle to the blade. thicknessis big too how thick is the spine and how thick do you plan to grind th edge befor sharpening ?
 
butcher_block said:
your chef looks wesrern and your parer blade lilky has too much height at th heel (looks more like a short utility blade )

there are so many styles of kitchen knives its hard to go wrong but can still be tricky to get things just right

blade shape is only part of the trick. the rest is about angles be it th engl of the grind and th angle of the handle to the blade. thicknessis big too how thick is the spine and how thick do you plan to grind th edge befor sharpening ?
Click to expand...

I was planning on using 0.110 stock and try to get it as thin as possible before sharpening (around 0.01 or 0.005 if I can).

Do you think the blade height is enough?
 
the blade height is fine as is your finger clearance providing your handle is no wider than 3/4 inch or so at the bolsters then swells wider like you have it drawn. I would drop the point of the parer a bit more so that it is no more than a third of the width of the blade above the edge. ie.. .32 inches above the bottom line of your drawing.
 
Bill Burke said:
the blade height is fine as is your finger clearance providing your handle is no wider than 3/4 inch or so at the bolsters then swells wider like you have it drawn. I would drop the point of the parer a bit more so that it is no more than a third of the width of the blade above the edge. ie.. .32 inches above the bottom line of your drawing.
Click to expand...

Thanks for the advice Bill!
 
One of the "ah-ha" moments I had in making kitchen knives is when I realized that the edge should not be parallel with the top of the handle. The edge should angle up just a bit. When the handle it parallel with the cutting board only the heel with be touching the board. This design allows for much better finger clearance when you are cutting with the flat spot.
 
I think the tip is now too low. I shoot for it to be inline with the bottom of the bolster. You got the right idea about the edge angling up though.
 
Are you doing your own heat treating? If not make sure to ask your heat treater how hard they can get aeb-l. Its not really worth it if all they can get you is 58-59hrc. I would shop around elsewhere if so.
 
Erdbeereis said:
I raised it just a bit, when I did it in line with the bolster, the whole design got messed up.
Click to expand...

In my kitchen knives I prefer a low tip, and very small amount of belly like the santoku or funayaki, or some of Takeda's gyutos. I cannot really understand the purpose of the french german shape anymore, it doesn't work for me in practice. Having said that I do keep a large parer/butchers/hankotsu knife which does have a considerable belly curve to use alongside the flatter gyuto.

I also wonder how it might look if the handle was swept up slightly, so there was a flow to the spine's curves with a flourish at the end :). It would also allow you to incorporate the angling described by others here.
 
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