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KME Sharpening system

timwilso

timwilso

Joined
Nov 25, 2014
Messages
265
After lots of research and mulling over my options...I pulled the trigger on a KME. I couldn't find anyone who was saying anything bad about this system. I ended up buying the gold series diamond stone set that comes with the base and all, off of amazon for $160. I'm really excited to get this and start learning how to put a proper even bevel on my knives. I have a lot of admiration for those who can put a great looking mirrored edge on a blade.
 
I have been using my KME for about a month now. Here are a few tips I learned. If you think you are going to reprofile some super dull knives, order the 100 grit extra course stone. That stone takes off a lot of metal real fast. Although the diamond stones get the knives super sharp, you can get them a lot sharper if you get at least one Kangaroo strop and the 4 micron CBN emulsifier. The nice thing about the KME system is that you can tape wet and dry sand paper to the stones by taping a strip of sand paper to the stone. The super fine diamond stone still leaves a lot of microscopic scratches on the blade that the 4 micron kangaroo strop can't take off. So after finishing with the 1500 grit diamond stone, I tape a small strip of 600 grit sand paper to one of the stones and do a few strokes with that on each side. I use plenty of water from a cheap spray bottle. That 600 grit sand paper takes most of the fine scratches off left from the diamond stone. I then tape up a piece of 1000 grit sand paper to one of the stones and that gets rid of just about all the scratches. I have used all the way up to 2500 grit sand paper, but 1000 is really all you need. After I finish with the 1000 grit sand paper, I strop it with the kangaroo strop and the 4 micron CBN emulsifier and that polishes the blade to a super mirror shine, and the knife comes out scary sharp. You can do the same thing with the expensive water stones he sells, but sand paper is a whole lot cheaper and does a fantastic job. All this is not necessary, you can get them sharp enough with just the regular stones in the kit, but once you see how good the system works, you start chasing that mirror edge. The sand paper and the kangaroo strop is all you need to achieve that mirror edge.
 
Good tips! I order the 140 grit diamond for reprofiling as well as the kangaroo strop and 4 micron to go with it. I'll keep in mind the sandpaper trick.
 
Ron stocks Hewlett diamond hones. Best in the biz.

If you are working with super alloys, there are some very aggressive grits to choose from. They work on mundane steel just as well.

I have diamonds from 50gt aka The Beast a the way down to 1/10 micron kango strops (Ron's a friend of mine....)

Granted I never use a lot of what I got, but the XXC, XC, C, AND Fine get used more than the rest.

I would recommend the XC, C, F for a first run at the diamonds. You'll get everything sharp, thats on the market. Even Soopa Steels.....

Moose
 
I run the Hewletts dry.

You ain't gonna knock diamonds off these guys. Old Man Hewlett patented the electroplating process......I've tried to ruin them, would up ruining some beater knives.

Took the XXC to some S35VN, ran it dry, bore down within reason and went at it. Got a nice pile of S35VN dust.....

Hone looks great

Moose
 
Panotaker said:
I have been using my KME for about a month now. Here are a few tips I learned. If you think you are going to reprofile some super dull knives, order the 100 grit extra course stone. That stone takes off a lot of metal real fast. Although the diamond stones get the knives super sharp, you can get them a lot sharper if you get at least one Kangaroo strop and the 4 micron CBN emulsifier. The nice thing about the KME system is that you can tape wet and dry sand paper to the stones by taping a strip of sand paper to the stone. The super fine diamond stone still leaves a lot of microscopic scratches on the blade that the 4 micron kangaroo strop can't take off. So after finishing with the 1500 grit diamond stone, I tape a small strip of 600 grit sand paper to one of the stones and do a few strokes with that on each side. I use plenty of water from a cheap spray bottle. That 600 grit sand paper takes most of the fine scratches off left from the diamond stone. I then tape up a piece of 1000 grit sand paper to one of the stones and that gets rid of just about all the scratches. I have used all the way up to 2500 grit sand paper, but 1000 is really all you need. After I finish with the 1000 grit sand paper, I strop it with the kangaroo strop and the 4 micron CBN emulsifier and that polishes the blade to a super mirror shine, and the knife comes out scary sharp. You can do the same thing with the expensive water stones he sells, but sand paper is a whole lot cheaper and does a fantastic job. All this is not necessary, you can get them sharp enough with just the regular stones in the kit, but once you see how good the system works, you start chasing that mirror edge. The sand paper and the kangaroo strop is all you need to achieve that mirror edge.
Click to expand...

Hmmm? I haven't had that problem after using the 1500 diamond. Maybe you didn't stay with the 1500 long enough. You may have left some scratches from the 600 (I assume that was in your progression) if you quit too early with the 1500. The kangaroo with the 4 mic CBN nicely completes the job. If I feel energetic I'll go down to the .5 and the .25 dia spray, but only sometimes.
 
Moosez45 said:
Love the KME. Great American made sharpening system and the owner, Ron, is an awesome guy.

Gotta love that warranty as well.

I done a little write up on here a couple of years ago......

http://www.bladeforums.com/forums/s...and-BKT-s-A-sharpening-tutorial?highlight=kme

Moose
Click to expand...

Yeah Moose, I talked to Ron for 15 or 20 minutes before buying the system. Nice, down to earth guy. Never once tried to put the squeeze on me to buy this or buy that. In fact after talking to him, I didn't even buy the cherry wood base. I think I have a little more freedom of movement without it.
 
Stand Straight said:
Yeah Moose, I talked to Ron for 15 or 20 minutes before buying the system. Nice, down to earth guy. Never once tried to put the squeeze on me to buy this or buy that. In fact after talking to him, I didn't even buy the cherry wood base. I think I have a little more freedom of movement without it.
Click to expand...

That's Ron. Whatever you do, don't mention bowhunting.........you will lose whatever time you had available and then some. :D:foot:

That's how KME got started, broadhead sharpeners. If you bow hunt and wanna good sharpener for them, KME has some of the best.

And, everything, even the foam in the box is USA made. Ron has went to great lengths to ensure that if its made in the US and he can get it, he does.

I think the red shop rags are made in china......but try finding shop rags made in the US........:D

Moose
 
Moosez45 said:
If you bow hunt and wanna good sharpener for them, KME has some of the best.

And, everything, even the foam in the box is USA made. Ron has went to great lengths to ensure that if its made in the US and he can get it, he does.

I think the red shop rags are made in china......but try finding shop rags made in the US........:D

Moose
Click to expand...

Or many others things also Moose.

A question (for anyone) on the 50 grit Beast...I'm concerned that that stone would have the tendency of ripping out carbides. I wonder where the larger grit become counterproductive and even destructive. Personally I use the lightest pressure I can to preserve the integrity of both the stone and steel. I'm certainly not a metallurgist nor a debater in the field at all, just a reader putting precept upon precept.
What have you found to be true in your experience with the 'Beast'?
 
Stand Straight said:
I didn't even buy the cherry wood base. I think I have a little more freedom of movement without it.
Click to expand...

I went ahead and sprung for the base when I bought mine, but I honestly use the system without it more often than not. I don't regret buying the base, but you can for sure get by just fine without it under most circumstances. I occasionally sit at the kitchen table and sharpen while watching tv. I like the base for this, but most times I just hold the clamp in hand, while sitting on the couch, etc.
 
Stand Straight said:
Or many others things also Moose.

A question (for anyone) on the 50 grit Beast...I'm concerned that that stone would have the tendency of ripping out carbides. I wonder where the larger grit become counterproductive and even destructive. Personally I use the lightest pressure I can to preserve the integrity of both the stone and steel. I'm certainly not a metallurgist nor a debater in the field at all, just a reader putting precept upon precept.
What have you found to be true in your experience with the 'Beast'?
Click to expand...

I would never, repeat, never use The Beast on a knife. Or at least one of good quality.

I think of it more for machetes and coarse ax heads. Maybe a tomahawk. The XXC is more than enough to reprofile pretty much any steel.

The Beast is more file than hone. But you talk about a great little pocket stone for a small machete or ax head.....

Moose
 
Stand Straight said:
Hmmm? I haven't had that problem after using the 1500 diamond. Maybe you didn't stay with the 1500 long enough. You may have left some scratches from the 600 (I assume that was in your progression) if you quit too early with the 1500. The kangaroo with the 4 mic CBN nicely completes the job. If I feel energetic I'll go down to the .5 and the .25 dia spray, but only sometimes.
Click to expand...
I did say that the scratches left by the 1500 are microscopic. You can't really see them with your naked eye. I use a 10X loupe to see them. Diamond stones are not polishing stones, they leave scratches, tiny scratches, but you can still see them with a 10X loupe. The sand paper trick gets rid of most of them and makes you have an even better mirror shine when you finally get around to using the kangaroo strop. It is not a necessary step, but it does take the edge to the next level of sharpness. it makes the edge a little sharper, and a little shinier. Wet and dry sandpaper is cheap, and only takes a minute to tape one to a stone. I also use my diamond stones wet, but like Moose said, they work fine dry, I just prefer to use them wet.
 
Panotaker said:
I did say that the scratches left by the 1500 are microscopic. You can't really see them with your naked eye. I use a 10X loupe to see them. Diamond stones are not polishing stones, they leave scratches, tiny scratches, but you can still see them with a 10X loupe. The sand paper trick gets rid of most of them and makes you have an even better mirror shine when you finally get around to using the kangaroo strop.
Click to expand...

When I put my loupe to the blade I can see faint scratches even stropping down to .25 mic diamond spray, which I expect to see. Just sorta the animal that steel is. Also depending on what steel is being sharpened you'll see different levels of polish. My old naked eyes are ok with light imperfections I see. I'd guess if you took...let's say the same knife as I in s90v, or whatever steel you would choose, and you used your method with the sandpaper, etc., and I went down the way I stated to a 4 mic strop, you would not be able to tell the difference naked eyed nor in cutting performance. Not a challenge, just saying practically.

Bottom line is my mirror polish is not perfect, just nice to my naked eyeball, and cutting phone book paper with just a quiet "zing" on a push cut is all the reward I desire.
Again, I'm not a steel scientist. I just read what some talented persons say building up my mental library. I also have taken in what you have said too. Honestly, for me it's too much hassle.
 
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