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KME Sharpening system

It is pretty easy to build your own base. I bought a 1/2" polished steel rod at the big box store, drilled a 1/2" hole in a thick piece of scrap wood, and hammered the rod in place with some epoxy. I did use a drill press though, I don't think I would have achieved a 90 degree hole freehand drilling.
 
It is pretty easy to build your own base. I bought a 1/2" polished steel rod at the big box store, drilled a 1/2" hole in a thick piece of scrap wood, and hammered the rod in place with some epoxy. I did use a drill press though, I don't think I would have achieved a 90 degree hole freehand drilling.

Thanks for that. I really like the epoxy idea but never thought of that securing method. A 1/2" carriage bolt with the head cut off would leave some thread for the epoxy to bind to and you wouldn't have to countersink and use nut/washer. Yep...I like it.
 
Not much to add. The KME system and Ron are both outstanding! The gold series diamonds are well worth the additional cost. As moose stated, they last for ever!
 
Is there a trick to getting the tip pointy sharp vs a more rounded sharp?

IMG_20150324_091351.jpg
 
Woah! How did that happen? ! When u get to the tip you need to make sure you look at how the stone is hitting the edge and tip. Make sure you aren't rolling the stone over the tip but are moving the stone far enough past the tip so only the flat part of the stone is making clean passes and not pushing down onto the tip. I'm having a hard time verbalizing it. You just need to look at that area and keep the stone flat on the edge at the tip. If you ate using a stand it may help to take the rig of the stand and flip it upside down so you can see what you are doing.
 
The stone does have a tendency to want to turn towards the tip. You're saying I should make sure it always stays flat when finishing my stroke torqads the end? I keep thinking its not going to hit the bevel of the tip if I do that...so would you suggest in start over to fix this?
 
Is there a trick to getting the tip pointy sharp vs a more rounded sharp?

IMG_20150324_091351.jpg

If you want the tip pointy again, you have to take off from the spine. You will never get pointy again removing from the edge.

Moose
 
I've had my kmefor about 2 years now and keep learning new things. Keeping the stone flat is the key at the point. As Moose stated, based in what u have now you will have to grind the spine dowb to lower the point again. With some practice you will get it. The points on my knives will pierce an atom so it possible!
 
Yep, I will second that. Keep the stone carrier flat clear to the tip. It takes some concentration and practice to keep the carrier from leaning over as it nears the tip, but it becomes second nature once you're used to it. I have never experienced anything as dramatic as on your Spydie, but I noticed something similar starting to happen on another knife early on, and making sure the carrier stayed flat throughout its range of motion stopped it. :thumbup:
 
Another note, if you plan on doing traditional knives with small pen blades, the small pen blade clamp is well worth the price. It changes out in seconds and really easy to use. Great to have on hand.
 
Another note, if you plan on doing traditional knives with small pen blades, the small pen blade clamp is well worth the price. It changes out in seconds and really easy to use. Great to have on hand.

And there is another clamp that will take you up to 3/8" for the Kuk owners....

Yeah, I gotta kuk or 7.......

Moose
 
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