Kme system

[Triple_D]

It took me two or three different knife sharpening to sort of get a good "feel" for the system. I think you will get better with a little more practice.

After I finish with the 1500 stone, I gently draw the edge across a piece of cork to remove any remaining burr. Then I follow up with a home made strop.

Here are a couple of videos that may help.

I use oil, because I often sharpen inside, and don't want metal dust all over my desk/carpet. And, I don't want to breath it, either. The oil helps capture the the dust.

 

[JTB_5]

I’ve also used a quality honing rod to help remove a burr.

 

[Blade Lab]

Should also mention that, if the system is brand new, those diamond stones will absolutely get less aggressive after 5-10 sharpenings. Before breaking in, that 1500 is probably closer to an 800 or 1000 grit stone.

 

[Jeeeen!]

If it's not slicing paper cleanly there are only three explanations: 1) you didn't fully apex the blade, 2) you didn't completely remove the burr, or 3) you rounded the apex when you were trying to remove the burr.

My guess in this case would be No. 2. Just because you can't feel a burr doesn't mean that it's gone. If you created a very large burr, you can break it off, leaving a burr root that isn't sharp. If you're sharpening a very wear-resistant steel (m390 and up), I'd recommend adding a micro-bevel around .5° higher than the sharpening angle. Ideally you'd do that with a strop or film with 1-3 micron diamonds. Or, if your highest grit now is 1500, I'd do 1-2 passes per side at +.5° using VERY light strokes. I mean as light as you can get while still making contact with the blade.

For less wear-resistant steels, like 14c28n, 154cm, n690, AUS8-10, etc., I'd recommend the above but at +1-2° above the sharpening angle instead of .5°.

Adding the microbevel does two things. First, it should cut off any remaining burr and burr root, and second, it should make the edge a little more resistant to chipping.

Ok I'll start over on the lowest grit.

 

[Jeeeen!]

Whew! M390 is not a fun steel to sharpen!

Once my 320 grit gets here, I'm going to start over. 320 800 1500 2000 5000

 

[sickpuppy1]

If you’re starting at 800 now, hell yeah it would be. I start at 240,400,600 then 1000 etc.

 

[Blade Lab]

I'd start with the KME 140 grit at minimum. Even better, the 100 grit.

 

[scottc3]

Jeeeen! What specifically are you using for your progression? Who made your m390? As Blade Lab says 800 and 320 are not coarse enough for reprofiling, 320 /240 might work for just matching factory profile, depending on m390. Remember always use a sharpie and angle finder app (Apple has one in utilities folder).

Never had a need to use my KME 100 grit diamond stone, other then I wanted to experience the difference between their 140 and 100 grit. I expect the kids will get KME's 100 grit stone in perfect condition, and think Ron's choice of starting with the 140 grit is perfect for reprofiling.

 

[mouseshadow]

I second the above. The 140 is plenty coarse. Although I own the 100 (and the 50 grit "Beast"), I have rarely used them. I have one custom knife (cryo treated cpm-154) that called for such extreme measures for a radical reprofile. I would even say to not fully apex with the 140. Sharpen until the sharpie mark is gone but stop before you raise the burr on both sides. Then transition to the 300 and sharpen normally from there. You can remove a lot of metal with the 140.

 

[Jeeeen!]

Jeeeen! What specifically are you using for your progression? Who made your m390? As Blade Lab says 800 and 320 are not coarse enough for reprofiling, 320 /240 might work for just matching factory profile, depending on m390. Remember always use a sharpie and angle finder app (Apple has one in utilities folder).

Never had a need to use my KME 100 grit diamond stone, other then I wanted to experience the difference between their 140 and 100 grit. I expect the kids will get KME's 100 grit stone in perfect condition, and think Ron's choice of starting with the 140 grit is perfect for reprofiling.

It's a shirogorov m390.
Today I went for the 320, then 800, 2000, and 5000.

It had a good bite at 320, and felt duller (to my fingers) as I got higher grit, but sliced paper more cleanly.

 

[Jeeeen!]

Almost there. I think another 20 minutes or so, and it'll be close to where I want it.

 

[scottc3]

It had a good bite at 320, and felt duller (to my fingers) as I got higher grit, but sliced paper more cleanly.

Following Ron's factory KME directions helps edge not get duller with the next stone. Specifically, swapping sides with each stroke to complete a stones work on the edge, before moving to finer stone. It seems tedious but is preventing what your experiencing. Shirogorov's m390 has gotta be good stuff, though the best m390 I have is Benchmade's.

Almost there. I think another 20 minutes or so, and it'll be close to where I want it.

Pics are are not sharp, but curls in paper suggest apex is clean, your work is paying off-

 

[Jeeeen!]

Following Ron's factory KME directions helps edge not get duller with the next stone. Specifically, swapping sides with each stroke to complete a stones work on the edge, before moving to finer stone. It seems tedious but is preventing what your experiencing. Shirogorov's m390 has gotta be good stuff, though the best m390 I have is Benchmade's.

Pics are are not sharp, but curls in paper suggest apex is clean, your work is paying off-

It's almost as sharp as I want it to be. Will be going back to the 320 and finish at 5000.

This is my 1st m390. To be honest, I'm not much of a steel snob, as long as it's not very cheap steel
I don't mind sharpening everyday.

 

[COSMO]

I have a KME and have found that I can cut any grit sandpaper into a strip that is the same width as the stone (just a little longer to clamp it in carrier), and then wrap it around the stone. This allows me to use higher grits and get mirror edges. Also. the leather strop is useful.

 

[Jeeeen!]

I have a KME and have found that I can cut any grit sandpaper into a strip that is the same width as the stone (just a little longer to clamp it in carrier), and then wrap it around the stone. This allows me to use higher grits and get mirror edges. Also. the leather strop is useful.

Wow that is great advice!
Much easier to find high grit sand paper than stones, and far cheaper.