KME troubles

Turns out it was a bad grind from the factory that I had to profile first. I was on the phone with ron AS I was sharpening and he was walking me threw the hole process for about an hour. What a guy, I have never seen anything like that in customer service at all. Truly a testimony to ron's passion and knowledge about his equipment.

Awesome. Any specific tips you can share?
 
Really the first thing you need to do is determine if the bevels are the same. You may have to try to profile it a bit first to really see what is going on. If one side is beveling different (one width of the bevel will be smaller or bigger) then you will know if they are different. Set your angle, and work on the side with the smaller bevel width until both sides look the same as well as looking at the tip from the top view to see if both meet in the middle.

What really helped me was drawing a pic of the primary and secondary bevels (with one side being noticeably different) then look at it and imagine what would have to happen to get both sides to the center and be equal lengths. It will show the smaller side has to be ground down more to move the center line back to the middle. Hope this helps and not created more confusion as I am typing this in jury duty right now....lol
Another side note is to always use the sharpie method. Ron could not stress that enough. Use the sharpie ever flip and it will not lie on what you have to do to get both side even
 
It seems zt'S are notorious for sharping one side higher to remove the burr than other manufacturers. My 560 was the same
 
It seems zt'S are notorious for sharping one side higher to remove the burr than other manufacturers. My 560 was the same

Kinda figured that was the case... when you said it happened on your Benchmade too, it made me wonder if something else was going on... but on the ZTs sharpening one side to a burr then flipping, ends up with the result you obtained. Many manufacturers do this, so something to watch out for.
 
The benchmade was not near as bad as they cnc machine the primary bevel but it can still happen even then

This is a pic of the picture I was talking about
The portion that sticks out past the dotted line is what has to be removed

And just fyi...to get the 562 blade to be at a true 20dps, the kme was set at about 25 degrees using a angle finder app on my phone


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Just a little tid bit of cool info I found out about the kme, you can take off the bearing guide and flip it upside down, reinstall it and get an angle down to like 8 dps
 
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