kmg clone

M

mwaters

Joined
Feb 5, 2012
Messages
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I am thinking of building a kmg clone. I was able to locate some blueprints online. I am on a tight budget and was wondering if the parts that are supposed to be machined from steel bar stock could be made from micarta.
 
I would not think micarta would work at all. You can buy the 1/2" aluminum to build a KMG clone with most all of it cut to length for little over $100 shipped...... maybe less than $150 including a flat platen assembly and 1-1/2" bar for arm. I've got less than $500 total cost in my grinder, and that's including 2hp 3 ph motor and VFD - not NEMA 4X, but used pretty heavy filtering over air intakes and mounted VFD on back side of table.

3" Longboard wheels work good for Platen wheels, and have been used for tension idler wheel to further keep cost down. Do you have access to a lathe?

Ken H
 
mwaters said:
I am thinking of building a kmg clone. I was able to locate some blueprints online. I am on a tight budget and was wondering if the parts that are supposed to be machined from steel bar stock could be made from micarta.
Click to expand...

There is a video series of Shadon hkw on you tube building one for a customer. He stated that the plans had errors. I think one was that the tool arm receiver was specd to be 1.5 inch. Unless you will face mill the tool arm, they won't fit. With careful planning and maybe contacting him to see if you have the same plans that he used, you will have a good product. Make it with 2 tools toms for increased versatility. Do you have a mill or have access to one?
 
Mr Waters - what part of Alabama are you in? Do you plan for direct drive or pulley/shaft setup?

These grinders are so simple, just looking at photo provides "most" of required info, but there are a couple of places where guidance is a help for first time. I'll be happy to help anyway I can, and PT Doc is a great resource - he's built some NICE grinder.

Ken H>
 
Moulton - that's "up home" - I'm from the NW corner of the state right on state line about 60/70 mile South of Tenn. 2hp will give you plenty of power.... what rpm? I'm "assuming' you plan for step pulleys to have a selection of speeds? Have you done much planning for belt speed yet?

Ken H>
 
Speedymetal on eBay has all sizes of cold rolled 1018. If you're home town is like mine, sourcing hot rolled should be no problem.
 
If you don't want to use steel you could use aluminum, but I don't think I'd want to use micarta. G10 perhaps.
 
Moulton is a LOTS smaller than Denver, but he might find something in Decatur at Dembo's scrap metal perhaps might have cold rolled steel. I like aluminum for fab'ing a grinder.... I guess I just like working with aluminum, and it isn't much (if any) more expensive than steel.

Except he's got the motor already on hand, I wouldn't even consider pulley/shaft setup. I went that route, argued for it, now I've used a direct drive, no comparison in smoothness. AND (as others have said) "IF" you have to buy the motor, shafts, etcd, not much difference in price of pulley/shaft vs VFD setup.

Ken H>
 
Also look at the EERF plans ( free spelled backwards).

There are build kits where all the parts have been cut and most holes drilled. These really make a good grinder if you have some shop skills. Polar Bear Forges sells one called a GIB ( grinder in a box).

Realize that any attempt to cut corners or scrimp will make a lesser grinder. You will either trade away function, power, accuracy, or longevity. Any of those will likely lead to lower quality knives. Using poly caster wheel, skateboard wheels, open frame and treadmill motors, etc. will "work", but not as well as proper wheels and motors. Same goes for belts ..... you really do get what you pay for.

Best advice I can give any new maker is to save up the difference and build a better grinder. It is the main tool for making a knife. It should be rock solid, sufficiently powered ( 1HP min), and have at least a flat platen and an 8" contact wheel.
 
I think certain portions of the build COULD be done with an industrial grade Micarta,, but personally I'd opt for some A36. Look for some drops at a local scrap yard or fab shop. I'd imagine you could get this for about the same price (if not cheaper) than the Micarta. If you already have a bunch of Micarta, or access to free scraps, I'd try to sell/trade those for the steel.
 
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