KMG grinder

Another thing to consider when tensioning your belts is not just the spring, but how far/hard you pull the tool arm out. I don't have a KMG, but I do notice a difference on the same spring of my other grinders, depending on where the tool arm is, vs how tight the belt gets and how it tracks.
 
There are so many better grinder options and cheaper. The kmg was great but the grinder market has way surpassed it. For the price of the kmg you could but a northridge which is one of the best if not the best grinder in the market. The 2nd tool arm is a must for vibration. The tw90 is great as well but just too expensive.
 
Customerservice is horrible. I need a couple of new small wheels for mine but I need to place a minimum $1000 order for international orders.....
I was lucky to get an answer though. First time in years.

I am getting a Northridge.

I'm agree. They are not equipped for International Sales.

I have a KMG for two years, it is one of the strongest I've ever used, but the pulley system causes small vibrations.

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Riccardo Mainolfi
 
I'm agree. They are not equipped for International Sales.

I have a KMG for two years, it is one of the strongest I've ever used, but the pulley system causes small vibrations.

_______________
Riccardo Mainolfi

You really should look into the direct drive kit Matthew Gregory offered up. You'll notice the vibration problems go away instantly. Plus with a larger drive wheel, more belt speed.
 
I am sure the KMG was a good choice at some point, but there are so many better options today if one is purchasing a grinder. I don't think the Beuomont customer service is any better in the U.S. either.

I think anyone who can make a decent knife, can build an excellent grinder and save a bunch of $$. Tons of great builds have been posted and the KMG style plans are available free. One could easily build double stacked tool ARM KMG style grinder and adjust the plans for a direct drive 56c motor.
 
I am sure the KMG was a good choice at some point, but there are so many better options today if one is purchasing a grinder. I don't think the Beuomont customer service is any better in the U.S. either.

I think anyone who can make a decent knife, can build an excellent grinder and save a bunch of $$. Tons of great builds have been posted and the KMG style plans are available free. One could easily build double stacked tool ARM KMG style grinder and adjust the plans for a direct drive 56c motor.

FWIW, that is the route I went, though I designed my own from scratch. The final cost (not including research, design, and build time) was around that of a KMG when done, but all said and done I ended up with a machine that I feel would contend with most that are on the market, and that also has features that few or none of them have.

I kind of took things to the extreme end though, and just about anyone could take some existing KMG clone plans, make a few modifications in Fusion 360, have the parts cut out of some 1/2" steel or aluminum plate by waterjet, and then finish assembly on their own. By the time it's all said and done, you can potentially save a few hundred bucks, or it might end up at or slightly above what the KMG costs (all the little things can add up if you're not careful), but then again, if everything is done correctly, you'll likely end up with a better machine no matter what the price.
 
Josh, I think my engine is not suitable for direct drive

A 56C frame, face mounted motor is the recommended type of motor for direct drive, HOWEVER, you can also just remove the pillow blocks and flanges, and just bolt your motor behind your grinder frame. As long as it's centered and squared to the machine properly, you'll be accomplishing essentially the same thing.
 
Andrew I went the same route as you. I also made a KMG style and a double arm KMG style as well as a modifided Beumont style 48" horizontal grinder. I did not save all that much on the horizontal 48" grinder (maybe a couple hundred bucks), but I saved quite a bit on the 2x72" grinders. All in, the 2x72's I built were 50-65% of the cost if purchased, and I think they were modestly better than the purchased machines. The biggest area where a builder can save money on these is the electronics. 3 phase motors (used and NOS) are readily available for cheap. The KB drives can also be purchased from other suppliers at decent discounts as compared to grinder mfg's.
 
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Ive been considering the direct drive conversion, but havent pulled the trigger. I guess I have a good KMG. Put a penny on the arm and ran full speed and penny stayed there. Ive never really noticed a vibration. More speed/power? Dont know that id need it, but maybe i dont know what im missing. Tracks generally well, every now and then belts do a little wobble. Never measured the alignment of my wheels to see if thats the issue.

Also, what is the purpose of the second arm?
 
I use the second arm slot for a quick adjusting/quick removing workrest. This is the double slot KMG style I made...it is shown with a pulley drive on the back, but I changed that out to a direct drive in the method that Andrew described above.

 
I purchased a KMG from Kovals at the Cambridge OH show and Rob was there over, 10 years ago. It been great. I have a Burr King with all the extras. And I wanted something with the flat platen and leave the Burr King with the 10" contact along. I never notice vibrations. I put a DC drive on the Burr King and use that motor and put on the KMG with a 3 step pulley. The only modification on the KMG is to put a extended handle to make belt changes easy. Years ago it was the Wilton, Bader, and Burr King, then KMG came along.
 
The first grinder I ever purchased was a KMG.

At the time, there were very few options for grinders; essentially just KMG and Bader.

Looking back, I should have purchased the Bader.

The KMG is "OK", but has a variety of issues that make it unsuitable IMO.

There are many, far superior grinders available now for the same price or less.

The KMG is better than nothing, but it's not worth the headache.
 
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