KMG jammer nut/spacer nut

[PT Doc]

Looking to get a spacer/jammer nut to attach my 2" wheel to a tool arm. I see that I can obviously get it from Rob at Beaumont but was hoping I could get it locally. Dont know the name if this though. It it part of the KMG CWS. Looks like a nut but with a taper at the end. Thanks for the help.

http://beaumontmetalworks.com/kmg-cws.html

 

[Dixieblade57]

I am not familiar with what you are going to use this for but here goes. Well my first thought is it looks like a lug nut! Not sure that would be the right thread though. You can buy a coupler nut and cut for length and turn the taper on it yourself!

http://www.google.com/products/cata...qUulT-qAOYWtgQe7scjIAQ&sqi=2&ved=0CMIBEPICMAA

Any way that's my take on the subject!

 

[12345678910]

I agree.

I'd call it a coupling nut

According to Rob's website it's 1/2-13 NC

but the question is - how long should it be?


http://www.mcmaster.com/#orders/=hekl9x

 

[Patrice Lemée]

Just use 2 nuts and a washers in between to get the right length. That's what I did and it works fine.

 

[PT Doc]

Thanks. Seems like its not likely to be found outside of a specialty fastener supplier.

 

[12345678910]

Thanks. Seems like its not likely to be found outside of a specialty fastener supplier.

I can also get them in the little drawers at Home Depot, Fastenal, TSC - Tractor Supply co, and the mom and pop hardware stores.

 

[SBuzek]

My local Ace hardware carries them.
Stan

 

[PT Doc]

ACE carries a tapered nut like this or just the non tapered nut?

 

[12345678910]

Put a short bit of threaded rod in a hand drill and the nut on.

Run it against a grinder of some sort, or a file.
You just need to get that outside diameter down so it only contacts the inner ring of the bearing and not the seals.
The actual taper angle doesn't matter.

 

[PT Doc]

Good idea. I can take the kmg nut off and try to duplicate it and at least start with a length that is fairly close since this serves as a spacer and also bears on the bearing.

 

[Stacy E. Apelt - Bladesmith]

Note Sam's point, the nut or the taper doesn't matter. The place that matters is the end where it sits against the bearing sleeve. It should be flat and just the same width as the sleeve. The rest can be ugly as sin and it won't matter.
In the best situation, chuck the nut in a lathe and turn down the shoulder, then true it up.
Second best is to do it in a drill press.
Third is the drill and grinder trick.

The length will determine where the wheel sits, and that can be adjusted by the length of one long nut, or stacking nuts and washers, as Patrice suggested.

 

[PT Doc]

Note Sam's point, the nut or the taper doesn't matter. The place that matters is the end where it sits against the bearing sleeve. It should be flat and just the same width as the sleeve. The rest can be ugly as sin and it won't matter.
In the best situation, chuck the nut in a lathe and turn down the shoulder, then true it up.
Second best is to do it in a drill press.
Third is the drill and grinder trick.

The length will determine where the wheel sits, and that can be adjusted by the length of one long nut, or stacking nuts and washers, as Patrice suggested.

Thanks for the recommendations. I have some good directions with this.