KMG work rest quick release

F

FunkCoaster

Joined
Nov 2, 2010
Messages
172
My KMG belt grinder has the factory work rest that attaches using two bolts.

Every belt change requires me to: loosen the work rest, slide it out, change belt, slide in, tighten. (skipping the "find correct wrench" step)
It seems odd to require a wrench be used for such a common task, when the platen arm itself has a locking lever.

Am I missing something obvious? Or does anyone have a good solution to this problem? Can a similar locking lever be used on the work rest?

If the answer is 'quit complaining', I'll accept that. But the more actions/time required the more room for error.
 
Does your work rest surround your wheel?

I made mine so it didn't to avoid that
 
I share your frustration! To make things easier, I removed one of the bolts. One less to deal with. I keep a wrench next to the grinder for quick tighten and release. It would be nice if the good folks at KMG put an easy-release lever on a future model.

Oh, before I forget: I haven't gotten around to filling out my profile, though I've been browsing the site for some time. My apologies for not doing it sooner.
 
I mounted a piece of reciever tubing to my Esteem so my tool rest arm is independent of my grinding arms.
 
Kuraki - Yes. I have a flat platen, but the work rest surrounds it.
PittKnife - That looks like a solution. Curious if anyone had any success/horror stories of them.

If I were to build my own work rest, I'd probably try for an independent receiver and mounting point. That seems most logical.
 
It will go a lot smoother/faster if you (a) fabricate a 'squeeze' plate that will go under the work rest and (b) replace the hex bolts with handled bolts as advised above.

The squeeze plate is a rectangle, approx 1.5 x 5" (any thickness from 1/8 to 3/8" is fine) with two holes that line-up with the work rest bolts. Instead of bolting the work rest directly to the tool arm, you will sandwich the work rest between the tool arm and the squeeze plate.
 
i use one bolt, never had a problem with it shifting. i leave the allen key in the bolt so its right there.
 
FunkCoaster said:
Kuraki -
PittKnife - That looks like a solution. Curious if anyone had any success/horror stories of them.
.
Click to expand...

That's what I use and it works fine. I only use one of them because, if you used two, they would block each other's rotation.

Not sure what kind of "horror stories" there would be. It's pretty much the same as having a wrench connected to the bolt.
 
I tigthen thr bolt closest to me and leave the back bolt in enough that the rest slides around it like normal just to avoid any drastic shifting.

Instead of a regular wrench I had a 1/4" drive socket wrench always sitting there in the base plate for quick chsnges.
 
JG Custom Metal Works said:
That's what I use and it works fine. I only use one of them because, if you used two, they would block each other's rotation.

Not sure what kind of "horror stories" there would be. It's pretty much the same as having a wrench connected to the bolt.
Click to expand...

If they are too close just trim them. I don't use them anymore because I got a much better grinder than the kmg. But those adjustable levers work in everything. If you are somehow putting enough pressure to bend them you are not doing something right. Use washers if you want to be safe but even that is overkill.
 
I used a "cam lock lever" with a 2.5" bolt coming up from underneath - works a CHARM. The biggest thread they make is 5/16"-18, but that's just one size smaller than the 3/8" holes in my grinder arm. With a fender washer under the bolt-head, it clamps my tool-rest (which I made from a 10x10 piece of 1/4" mild) like nobody's business. No worries about clearance as it doesn't need to rotate to tighten like the "adjustable control handles" mentioned above. And the clamping force is fantastic, so just one's plenty.

The "squeeze plate" mentioned above is a great idea, btw.

$11 from Amazon, I got free prime shipping. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B013I9ZIOM/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

41EXieOSkcL.jpg
 
Robert Erickson said:
^Love that idea!
Click to expand...
Thanks kindly! (I'm new to all this and just selling my first few after nearly a year of learnin', so good to hear I'm doing something right :))

One related thing that goes with the whole cam-lever hack: I made my own work rest for my Oregon grinder. It was 25% cheaper than theirs, but more importantly has a larger support area, and is far more easily removable/re-installable. Bought a plate of 1/4" hot-rolled mild, 10x10 ($18, free same-day Prime shipping from Amazon). Cut 1.5 x 7" out of the back left side, and 7x7" out of the back right, leaving an asymmetrical "T" (vs. "L") shape. Because the mounting 'tongue' is on the tool arm to the left of the platen, though, this gives me 10" total, with 4" on each side of the belt. I cut a recess of about 1/4-3/8" for the belt so I can rest a 240mm gyuto blade without worrying about it taking a dive down into the crack, which would be A Bad Thing. Drilled a 3/8" hole on the tongue at about 5" from the end and then cut the slot all the way from the back to the hole.* That lets me just flip up the cam lever and pull the table completely off without having to totally remove/reinstall the bolts when I want to slack-belt, have access to the whole platen height, or put the table under the arm for another 1.5" of platen above the work rest.

Total time was about 60-90 min including layout, setup, drilling, cutting, fitting, and deburring/finishing. (Cursing & muttering time not factored in.)

Note on the open-back slot: the 1/4" is still plenty rigid, especially with the clamping force of the one bolt being nearest the table. A 'squeeze-plate' would maybe help with any torsion/twisting at the back too, but (a) I don't actually notice any, and (b) the cam-lock lever sol'n seems to mostly obviate the benefit of a squeeze-plate anyhow. I suppose you could always use a 2nd cam-lever for insurance, but in my experience thus far that'd be taking a gun to a knife-fight. (Sorry! <grin>)

Cheers,
Andrew
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*Can I tell you how much I love having a mini porta-bandsaw with a stand/table?!? Couldn't imagine getting by without it. Mostly for cutting blade blanks and bolsters, but cutting about 32" linear of 1/4" HRS really reminded me of its value...
 
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