Knife #2 - Dad's Christmas Present

B

Broomhead

Joined
Jan 12, 2012
Messages
335
Here is my second knife, but the first using quality steel, 1084 from Bldsmth. It started out as a .25"x1.5" bar. I did the heat treating on it using my forge and canola oil for the quenchant.

Specs:
OAL: 5.5"
Blade: 2.5"
Scales: Black Walnut
Pins: 1/4" Brass Rod
Finish: Scales were sanded to 400grit and have several coats of Tru-Oil. The blade was machine finished with an A30 Gator belt and then stone washed...in the dryer.

There are some obvious flaws, but I'm still proud of it and will learn from these mistakes. I royally screwed the pooch on the one I was making for my dad when I tried to even up the plunges post-heat treat. Dad has seen this one at certain stages, but he has not seen the finished product. I also made a simple leather pouch sheath that still needs to have the edges dyed to match the rest of the leather. Critiques are always welcome.

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Nice little knife, your Dad will love it.

Fred
 
Are you going to mark it ?
I think it's worth it.

If you aren't equipped to etch, I'd take it to a Trophy engraving shop with a laser engraver.
 
Good job on your second knife. Dad will surely like it more considering it was made by you. Happy Holidays.
 
Looks to be a very short stubby strong knife, how thick is the stock handle?

My father favors similar knives as well.
 
Count, I do want to etch it, but I don't have the setup...yet. I'll have to look around for laser engravers. I know of several trophy shops, I'm just not sure if any of them use lasers.

Sasquatch, The tang is just shy of .25". The entire handle, scales and all, at it's widest, is .7".

Thanks for the kind words. Any critiques?
 
Broomhead said:
Any critiques?
Click to expand...

You asked! :)

I'm not sure of the wisdom of stonewashing a 1084 blade. It has essentially zero corrosion-resistance, and anything that makes the surface rougher makes it easier to trap moisture/gunk and cause rust. Stonewashing is not nearly as bad as bead-blasting in that regard, but I personally prefer a much finer finish.

Perhaps a light etch/patina with vinger/lemon juice etc is in order? If not, keep it reasonably clean and dry, use it a lot on foodstuffs, and it will patina naturally.

I do like the profile and your grinds look good!
 
james terrio said:
You asked! :)

I'm not sure of the wisdom of stonewashing a 1084 blade. It has essentially zero corrosion-resistance, and anything that makes the surface rougher makes it easier to trap moisture/gunk and cause rust. Stonewashing is not nearly as bad as bead-blasting in that regard, but I personally prefer a much finer finish.

Perhaps a light etch/patina with vinger/lemon juice etc is in order? If not, keep it reasonably clean and dry, use it a lot on foodstuffs, and it will patina naturally.

I do like the profile and your grinds look good!
Click to expand...

I did ask, and thank you James. The stone wash was a, "Hey, how would that look?" I didn't think it through on the corrosion part. I'm going to let him decide how/if he wants a patina, or if he just wants to keep it oiled...a lot. I have ferric chloride as well, but what effect would that have on the scales? What effect would vinegar, lemon juice, or mustard have on them?
 
At this point the finish is what it is. Don't try and change it. It will slowly form a patina in use.
 
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