Erin Burke
KnifeMaker...ish
- Joined
- May 19, 2003
- Messages
- 1,330
Good morning all. I just finished this knife a couple of days ago and knocked-out some photos in the last 24 hours. Once again, I'm going to apologize for the images. I keep thinking that I'm going to get better at this whole photography thing, but the camera bites me every time. Case in point; this knife has a nice clean hamon which I was unable to catch in any of the photos... not with daylight, staged light, black reflectors or anything I could figure out. The only angle at which the hamon popped placed the camera (and my balding head) square in the blade reflection... traumatic. 
Now that I've got my complaining out of the way...
Some Stats:
Length: 14-7/8"
Blade: 8-11/16" (Tip to Choil)
Steel: Differentially heat-treated 1095 (from Kelly Cupples) Flat-Ground
Handle: WSSI Stabilized Maple Burl (Dyed Black)
Guard: 416ss w/ Copper and Black G10 spacers
I tried to do a few new things with this knife... I even succeeded at some of them. This was my first hidden-tang handle where I left the handle wood just slightly proud of the spacers... you know... like all the cool kids are doing
. I used black electrical tape to help control the depth of this lip (about 1-2 tape thicknesses). I also used one of my new checkering files on the sides of the copper spacer.
I also tried a couple of new techniques with the sheath; basketweaving, highlighting dye, and using real edge-bevelers instead of my grinder.
What are your thoughts on this one?
Erin
Now that I've got my complaining out of the way...
Some Stats:
Length: 14-7/8"
Blade: 8-11/16" (Tip to Choil)
Steel: Differentially heat-treated 1095 (from Kelly Cupples) Flat-Ground
Handle: WSSI Stabilized Maple Burl (Dyed Black)
Guard: 416ss w/ Copper and Black G10 spacers
I tried to do a few new things with this knife... I even succeeded at some of them. This was my first hidden-tang handle where I left the handle wood just slightly proud of the spacers... you know... like all the cool kids are doing
. I used black electrical tape to help control the depth of this lip (about 1-2 tape thicknesses). I also used one of my new checkering files on the sides of the copper spacer.I also tried a couple of new techniques with the sheath; basketweaving, highlighting dye, and using real edge-bevelers instead of my grinder.
What are your thoughts on this one?
Erin
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