Knife #3

Joined
Jun 6, 2012
Messages
783
Hey guys just finished my third knife made form 1095 3/16. It's a lot better than #1 and 2:). Heat treat was done by Darrin Sanders. Tell me what you think. Any critique and tips are greatly appreciated. Thanks
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Not a bad looking knife! Personally I don't like the birdshead shape on the butt of the handle, but your shaping seems to be well done. Kind of hard to tell,but the grinds look a little low. Maybe try taking them up a little higher on the next one.


-Xander
 
I'd say the grinds are about halfway up. It does look extremely low in that pic though:) thanks for your compliment!
 
That's what I immediately thought as well. Looks like a Becker. I'm not a big fan of their handles, but it looks well executed.
 
Looking good! I think you are off to a great start.

If I had to be critical I'd say the grind might need to be pulled further up the blade... but I can't really tell and a short grind to a thin edge is great for a lot of tasks.

The handle looks great! Corby bolts will not show seams if you are going after that look. Great job on using mechanical fasteners, that is always more work and a good way to go. Overall the shaping and finish looks great. Nice work!
 
El, I think is a personal thing. I posted a knife the other day that someone didn't like because they like larger butts on their handles. It was shaped like a torpedo. I like those types because I can hold them in any direction and be very comfortable. However, and this is a big however, Becker knives are the complete antithesis to my preference, and have a HUGE following. So it's all subjective. That's why I said not my style, but well executed. I can appreciate the work that went into the handle, even if I don't particularly personally like the style. Make them your way. That's the fun of it.
 
Thanks a lot Daniel and I agree with you. It's hard on a hf 1x30 but hopefully I'll soon upgrade to a craftsmen. Your knives are awesome!!!

Medicevans I understand, I was just wondering thanks a lot.
 
Thanks a lot Daniel and I agree with you. It's hard on a hf 1x30 but hopefully I'll soon upgrade to a craftsmen. Your knives are awesome!!!

Medicevans I understand, I was just wondering thanks a lot.

Just keep practicing with the 1x30, they just spin some sandpaper. You make the knife. All I use is a 1x30 and a 9" disc that doesn't reverse. I managed to pull off my first hollow grinds with the 1x30 on the top wheel. Do buy some better belts than the ones HF sells.

I totally agree with Medic about the style, it is completely subjective. I like smoother, streamlined handle shapes, but yours looks well done. No blocky handle there!


-Xander
 
all i have to say is that im sorry that you have white carpet. it must be a nightmare to keep clean.
but the knife looks nice! real usable! but why did you do corby bolts instead of solid pins? i just feel like rod is cheaper and easier to work with.
 
all i have to say is that im sorry that you have white carpet. it must be a nightmare to keep clean.
but the knife looks nice! real usable! but why did you do corby bolts instead of solid pins? i just feel like rod is cheaper and easier to work with.

Where do you get your solid pins from?

Op, knife looks great , can't wait for my first shot at knife making. Where did you order the steel from?
 
I don't know, I will be trying normal pins but I just feel bolts would be stronger and I like the look of them.
 
i get my steel, and am planing on buying my next batch of brass rod, from speedy metals. i used to get brass from the hardware store but its cheaper at speedy metals and there distribution center is close to me so shipping is fast. also no minimum order which is good for guys like us.
http://www.speedymetals.com/default.aspx?
 
Looks good. Excellent for a third knife.:thumbup::thumbup:

As some have said, Corby bolts look more finished.
The bird's head could be a bit less pronounced and still add the drop needed.
On the blade, if you take the spine and make it a smooth curve instead of a sudden angle toward the tip the look is quite different. Try it on cardboard and see if you like it better. You can change this one that way, or just try it on the next.
 
Thanks alot bladsmth. Means a lot coming from you. Turning the clip point to a drop point would be a good idea, I might have to try another one like it. I'm adding more pics:)
 
Adding distal taper to the blade will also make it look and work better.

What thickness is the blade stock? It looks very thick for a hunter. Many new makers use stock about twice as thick as needed. This not only affects the weight and look, it affects the amount of work needed, and the cutting action of the knife.

Within reason,on a knife designed for cutting/slicing it is hard to make a knife too thin. 1/8" stock is a good size for most first blades. After a while, you will find that .06" to .10" is a good thickness for slicers. Measure some commercial hunting and kitchen knives and see how thick they are....you will be surprised.
 
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