Knife #9 ...need advice

panch0

panch0

Joined
Jun 16, 2008
Messages
3,415
Well here is my ninth knife. How is it looking so far? I am still hitting the micarta with a file to get the final shape before hand sandin it down. My problem is the exposed tang around the lanyard hole. This rookie started wth out protecting it with tape or something. Now it has a few scratches.:mad: I feel like kicking myself. What method of removing those scratches do you guys have. If I used two fngers and pinch the sand paper, and pull straight back would that work?

Dangit!!! I wanted to sell this one too.:( The adventues of rookie man continues...

-frank

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One option is to sandblast the blade, and the lanyard hole. One thing that I had to do once was to take a piece of brass rod (or some other small piece of metal) and hold sandpaper on it, and rub that along an edge, which may or may not help you.
 
Should be simple!
Remove the pins and handles, and then refinish the exposed part. put the handles back on. TAPE UP the exposed part this time while finishing the handles.

Jason
 
JasonSCarter said:
Should be simple!
Remove the pins and handles, and then refinish the exposed part. put the handles back on. TAPE UP the exposed part this time while finishing the handles.

Jason
Click to expand...


I already glued it together. So just put it in the oven to heat it up and weaken up the glue. I have never done that before.

Mike, I just may just bead or sand blast that area If I can find some ne arond here with a blaster.
 
Okay, to fix this one I'd try some Cratex bits in a Dremel tool, low speed and careful around the scale edges. In the future, shape and sand that portion of the scale prior to pinning / epoxying to at least 220 (if not full finish) and then attach, tape, finish sand the scales. Good luck!
 
Or, you could just sand the exposed section of the tang......
If you want to get it perfect, take a flat stick about 1/8" thick and roundthe end to fit the curve of the handle where the tang sticks out. then get some double back carpet tape and tape some sand paper on to it. Trim to fit the stick and have at it. As the paper gets dull, just take it to the belt sander, grinding wheel or whatever you have and grind some off to expose fresh.
This may sound a bit complicated, but really it goes quick especially on something that small. Just start with 220 and go up from there like you did on the blade. Probably take you all of 15 min and you don't have to cook it or find a sand blaster.:D
Good luck and don't beat yourself up. It's something we've all done more than once.
Ed
 
Erik,

Not to hijack, but where do you get your cratex wheels? I haven't found them locally or with my regular suppliers.

--nathan
 
BTW, Pancho. I like the looks of that handle, but, no offense, the blade looks like @$$. :D It's always a good idea to make a blade out of known steel, not the closest roll of blue tape you've got available. I don't know how well it's going to hold up under heat treatment. ;)

Those small areas like the end of the tang are tough to get fully clean if they get messed up after the handle is on. Like others mentioned, maybe a scrap of steel or rod that you can use as a backing to the paper to get in that area will work. It's just tough to get the scratches closest to the handle material out. Another trick would be to cut a razor blade small enough to fit in the area as a paper backing. That's worked for me with cleaning up a scratch near the front of the handle on the ricasso.

--nathan
 
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You could grind the whole thing away....or you could do some kind of texture in that area.
Mace
 
This time, use an appropriately-shaped "sanding block" to clean up the exposed tang. That's going to be fun. :D Next time, finish the tang as you like, and pre-finish the butt-ends of the scales just like you would for the ricasso end, before assembly.
 
go mike said:
One option is to sandblast the blade, and the lanyard hole. One thing that I had to do once was to take a piece of brass rod (or some other small piece of metal) and hold sandpaper on it, and rub that along an edge, which may or may not help you.
Click to expand...

Blasting won't remove any but the finest scratches. Don't get in the habit of using the blaster to cover up or fix problems, they'll just show back up after the knife has been handled/used for a while.
 
How about using a dulled razor blade and sandpaper. I have had to use this method before on the ricassio. BTW I like the looks of the handle and lthe exposed lanyard hole.
 
Great advice guys thanks. I will try the razor or wood with the sand paper trick and see how it goes.

-frank
 
Jantz has Cratex wheels, bullets and cylinders, $6 for 10 IIRC. I usually get mine from Enco or the local machinist supply house, there's some people on fleaBay selling them or at least rubberized abrasives.
 
AcridSaint said:
Blasting won't remove any but the finest scratches. Don't get in the habit of using the blaster to cover up or fix problems, they'll just show back up after the knife has been handled/used for a while.
Click to expand...

Oh, thanks for correcting me.
 
I have finished the handles so far and still need to clean up the area in question and the tang between the scales. I will work on that tommorrow and post a pic when this baby is done.
 
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