knife cleaner?

M

mburns1339

Joined
Jun 14, 2015
Messages
7
Newbie question here: I have some knives that were in my late uncles collection and some of them have a green mold or oxidation on them, often found on the rivets on the handle. Not sure if this was poor maintenance on my part, or moisture on the inside of the sheath, etc. But it rubs off with a fingernail, so it's not permanent.

Is there a good way to clean these, and remove this without damaging the knife or handle material?

Thanks!
 
WD 40 on a rag should take it off. Don't store knives in their sheaths.
 
B/C rust remover is for rust. Rust forms on steel, not brass. Verdigris forms on copper alloys and is easily removed.
The "rust erasers" are VERY abrasive.
Please don't give advice if you don't know what you are talking about.
 
The 'green' stuff is likely verdigris (corrosion around anything of brass/copper, as it often reacts to acids used in tanning leather for sheaths), and can be cleaned off with some metal polish like Flitz or Simichrome, with a soft cloth or perhaps an old toothbrush. It cleans up pretty easily this way; I used Simichrome and a microfiber towel to remove some green verdigris from one of my stag-handled pocketknives, around the brass pins, and it worked well, and very quickly at that. I've never tried the WD-40 for it, but I'd assume Bill's suggestion would work also.

As mentioned, the 'rust erasers' are extremely abrasive, usually made with silicon carbide grit (same stuff often used to sharpen knives). For example, they'll very quickly leave a 'brushed satin' finish on previously mirror-finished blades, if not careful.


David
 
Last edited:
Breakfree CLP will Clean, Lubricate, and Protect the knife from future corrosion. Gun guys use it all the time. Can get it at most gun stores and sporting goods departments that sell hunting and fishing gear. it is not expensive or hard to apply, just spray on.
 
umm i use the erasers all the time it is not abrasive i dunno what you are using, and the rust remover works well i fix knives all the time... i know what i am talking about thanks, btw it goes to reason if he has oxidation then there is also a bit of rust i was recommending it to clean it, also i would recommend if you wanted a good polish is to to do various grits of sand paper some people like to go up to 1500-3000 grit to get a good polish on it
 
Last edited:
Highlander 20026 said:
umm i use the erasers all the time it is not abrasive i dunno what you are using, and the rust remover works well i fix knives all the time... i know what i am talking about thanks, btw it goes to reason if he has oxidation then there is also a bit of rust i was recommending it to clean it, also i would recommend if you wanted a good polish is to to do various grits of sand paper some people like to go up to 1500-3000 grit to get a good polish on it
Click to expand...

With all due respect, something that erases with a rubbing action is abrasive. Unless you think in this case it could be magic. Rust removers such as Navel Jelly contain a very caustic compound called phosphoric acid. That works on a different principle. It takes either a caustic compound or a strong abrasive to remove all by the most surface dusting of rust... the sort you can wipe off with a tissue. Want to clean and polish brass? Use 'Brasso.' It's made to do just that, and has been satisfying Marine Corps Drill Instructors for a lot of years!
 
Highlander 20026 said:
umm i use the erasers all the time it is not abrasive i dunno what you are using, and the rust remover works well i fix knives all the time... i know what i am talking about thanks, btw it goes to reason if he has oxidation then there is also a bit of rust i was recommending it to clean it, also i would recommend if you wanted a good polish is to to do various grits of sand paper some people like to go up to 1500-3000 grit to get a good polish on it
Click to expand...

If pencil erasers, they'll be OK; some have used them to remove light rust on blades. The products marketed as 'rust erasers' are a completely different animal; a composite material of rubber(ish) material binding the relatively coarse grit of silicon carbide.

I think there's a misdirect of the topic here, though. The 'corrosion' referred in the OP appears to be referencing 'green' oxidation/corrosion on or around the handle pins, and not a reference to oxide or rust on the blade. Some of the recommendations for cleaning it up appear to be directed at removing or preventing red rust, and not verdigris. Removing verdigris (green corrosion of copper or brass) usually doesn't require anywhere near the same aggressive measures as for rust on blades.


David
 
stitchawl said:
With all due respect, something that erases with a rubbing action is abrasive. Unless you think in this case it could be magic. Rust removers such as Navel Jelly contain a very caustic compound called phosphoric acid. That works on a different principle. It takes either a caustic compound or a strong abrasive to remove all by the most surface dusting of rust... the sort you can wipe off with a tissue. Want to clean and polish brass? Use 'Brasso.' It's made to do just that, and has been satisfying Marine Corps Drill Instructors for a lot of years!
Click to expand...

As i said the erasers i buy are not abrasive, in the meaning they do not scratch or pit the blade, they are more stropping style erasers, they more or less polish the blade and clean the surface, there are dozens of types out there, the ones i get are not, i have done this for many years, and i can assure you if you get the right ones they work great, of course i always polish with high grit paper after any cleaning as well, for example here is a one i have done,,,

20150301_150923_zpssomrt1l9.jpg

fredmack overland knife was all rusted and tarnished

and after
20150611_160127_zpsl3ewbzx5.jpg
 
Last edited:
And I say they do. I have used them. You can't remove metal without abrasion. You can't polish metal without abrasion.
I really doubt you can teach me much about cleaning a knife.
 
Bill DeShivs said:
And I say they do. I have used them. You can't remove metal without abrasion. You can't polish metal without abrasion.
I really doubt you can teach me much about cleaning a knife.
Click to expand...

I'm not trying to teach you anything, I'm telling you what works for me, of course any cleaning is somewhat abrasive, as i said before the erasers do not scratch the blade like some other methods such as low grit paper or steel wool
 
Steel wool won't scratch a blade.
Please stop posting things that you know little to nothing about.
 
He is sharing what works for him, simple as that. If it doesn't work you then don't use. Yes polishing is abrasive. We all know that. I have seen those erasers before, their like sandpaper for metal. Some I have seen feel like a rasp others feel like 2000+ grit sandpaper. He has stated what works for him and you have stated what works(or does not) work for you.

I would suggest as stated before, a metal polishing compound like brasso. Some fine sandpaper would work to, you can tape off the areas you don't want to sand. Naval jelly is most likely bad for natural handle materials so beware. If it rubs off with your fingernail, you could take a pair of nail clippers that have that metal finger cleaner with ridges on one side, scrap it off or use the ridges on it like a file. It won't damage the handle or grind anything unwanted off.
 
Jeez guys- I do this for a LIVING! I've been doing it for 45 friggin' years. I'm not a hobbyist- I do museum-quality restoration on cutlery.
I don't open my mouth unless I'm darned sure what I'm talking about. I have experience in what works and what doesn't-keeping in mind that I'm speaking to hobbyists.
When I see damaging advice given, I'm going to speak up.

You don't need sandpaper, erasers or anything else to remove verdigris from brass. It generally will wipe off. The metal can be polished with Simichrome polish. Brasso gets in crevices and stays there.

I guess you could remove it by scraping it on a sidewalk. I'm telling you the proper, most efficient method.
 
Bill DeShivs said:
Jeez guys- I do this for a LIVING! I've been doing it for 45 friggin' years. I'm not a hobbyist- I do museum-quality restoration on cutlery.
I don't open my mouth unless I'm darned sure what I'm talking about. I have experience in what works and what doesn't-keeping in mind that I'm speaking to hobbyists.
When I see damaging advice given, I'm going to speak up.

You don't need sandpaper, erasers or anything else to remove verdigris from brass. It generally will wipe off. The metal can be polished with Simichrome polish. Brasso gets in crevices and stays there.

I guess you could remove it by scraping it on a sidewalk. I'm telling you the proper, most efficient method.
Click to expand...

you do realize that if it has oxidation on it it most likely has rust on it as well? i have never seen one with just oxidation and no rust, but what do i know, i am a hobbyist lol
 
Sometimes I wonder why I bother........
There are probably quite a few things you haven't seen.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top