knife cleaner?

Bill DeShivs said:
Sometimes I wonder why I bother........
There are probably quite a few things you haven't seen.
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why do you insist on insulting people and saying i am a "hobbyist" when you know absolutely nothing about me or my abilities, because i have a different method then you does not mean it doesn't work, your word isn't set in stone, there are multiple ways to get to the same point, apparently 45 years you haven't learned that, but whatever bud, i am trying to help the guy , you just want to cause arguments, not sure why...
 
I know quite a bit about your abilities from your comments. You don't have a clue.
I hate arguments-almost as much as damaging information.
 
http://www.bladeforums.com/forums/s...ion-and-Removal-of-Rust-Oxidation-and-Pitting
*****
Please take a brief look at this. I can help with any questions you may have and tell you exactly what to use and do to your knife for the best results. From the sounds of it, a light plastic bristle gun care brush from a gun specialties store or a toothbrush with some flitz and a rag should take care of it. If it is still there after three applications, try letting the blade soak in K1 Kerosene for a day to loosen the oxidation/patina and brush with a plastic brush or toothbrush. Then buff with a clean wash cloth and flitz metal polish. Don't use K1 Kerosene on wood or leather as it is petroleum product and will darken the wood or leather. Use Hoppes Weathergaurd for long lasting protection from rust or oxidation that doesn't collect dust or particles like Rem-Oil. It is a great oil that will protect your knife from water and moisture and isn't sticky at all. Message or email me if you want some help. I am more than willing. Just send me some pictures of the knives and I will tell you everything you need to know.
 
Bill DeShivs said:
I know quite a bit about your abilities from your comments. You don't have a clue.
I hate arguments-almost as much as damaging information.
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right i don't have a clue those pictures of the knife i posted that i restored looks terrible right? funny how i used the exact stuff i recommended and i have done with many knives, but whatever man, i will be the better man and say your right you know it all, no other way can be done but yours....
 
Bill DeShivs said:
I know quite a bit about your abilities from your comments. You don't have a clue.
I hate arguments-almost as much as damaging information.
Click to expand...

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i guess i did these wrong to, right? i have evidence of my work, i don't see yours, but i will end this, you are right! :)
 
Yes, you did it wrong. The finish should be exactly like the original finish, not all shined up.
As far as evidence of my work, just Google my name.....
I don't talk about it much here, as I don't need additional work.
Get back with us after the search.........
 
Bill DeShivs said:
Yes, you did it wrong. The finish should be exactly like the original finish, not all shined up.
As far as evidence of my work, just Google my name.....
I don't talk about it much here, as I don't need additional work.
Get back with us after the search.........
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lol your to much, have a good one buddy
 
Bill DeShivs said:
Jeez guys- I do this for a LIVING! I've been doing it for 45 friggin' years. I'm not a hobbyist- I do museum-quality restoration on cutlery.
I don't open my mouth unless I'm darned sure what I'm talking about. I have experience in what works and what doesn't-keeping in mind that I'm speaking to hobbyists.
When I see damaging advice given, I'm going to speak

You don't need sandpaper, erasers or anything else to remove verdigris from brass. It generally will wipe off. The metal can be polished with Simichrome polish. Brasso gets in crevices and stays there.

I guess you could remove it by scraping it on a sidewalk. I'm telling you the proper, most efficient method.
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Yes Bill, but you are doing it abrasively...
 
LOL!

I just hate to see someone give advice that could ruin a knife.
 
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