Knife for beach use

mec003 said:
Thanks guys. Leaving in a couple days and have to choose from what I have. Unless I grab something cheap at walmart. I would love a spyderco pacific salt, but have neither the time nor funds to order one at the moment. I might just pick up a $4 ozark trail folder. Should be serviceable for the week. I'll have to plan better for next year.
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Get a $20 Victorinox tinker from a big box store.
Since you'll be at the beach, I'll bet a bottle opener may come in handy.
Trust me a Vic will be very handy.

If you do go with an Ozar trail folder though , stick with the green and black one.
 
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eisman said:
Since I can use only one at a time I chose quality over variety every time.

That being said, ANY steel will rust; Cobalt doesn't.
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h1 does not rust at all. lc200n appears to be about rust proof so far......
 
H1 is basically rustproof (not merely rust-resistant). The only true corrosion I've known of was several years ago someone soaked an H1 knife with something like chlorine tablets(?) or whatever, but for any use a human being could reasonably use a knife for, the H1 itself will not rust. And the discoloration often seen in the H1 logo on the blade is from leftover residue from the tooling process, not the H1 itself. Some of the other treated hardware, like screws, etc., can eventually rust, but I've never had that happen myself from ocean water. Mine are not in constant exposure.

As mentioned, cobalt (as in Boye's dentritic cobalt) will never rust.

LC200N is awesome stuff. It might not be 100% rustproof, but apparently is as close as you can get without being completely rustproof. And it holds an edge in plain edge much better than H1 does.

Jim
 
James Y said:
H1 is basically rustproof (not merely rust-resistant). The only true corrosion I've known of was several years ago someone soaked an H1 knife with something like chlorine tablets(?) or whatever, but for any use a human being could reasonably use a knife for, the H1 itself will not rust. And the discoloration often seen in the H1 logo on the blade is from leftover residue from the tooling process, not the H1 itself. Some of the other treated hardware, like screws, etc., can eventually rust, but I've never had that happen myself from ocean water. Mine are not in constant exposure.

As mentioned, cobalt (as in Boye's dentritic cobalt) will never rust.

LC200N is awesome stuff. It might not be 100% rustproof, but apparently is as close as you can get without being completely rustproof. And it holds an edge in plain edge much better than H1 does.

Jim
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from spyderco forum said by Sal......

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sal
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Posts: 10580
Joined: Fri Sep 24, 2004 12:00 pm
Location: Golden, Colorado USA
Postby sal » Sun Oct 02, 2011 4:02 pm

Hi Joe,

In corrosion resistance (Q-Fog testing) both H1 and Dendritic Cobalt did not rust at all. Excellent results, at the top of the charts.

In CATRA testing, as I remember, they also did well, though I don't remember the details in numbers. That was on the plain edge tests.

We've never tested Dendritic Cobalt with a serrateed edge, so I have no info. I can say that the serrated H1 will hold an edge (in CATRA testing) longer than any other material tested.

David Boye (Boye dent) pioneered Dendritic Cobalt. David Boye and Stuart Ackerman (Zackerty) have also done a great deal of work with Dendritic 440C with very good results.

sal"
 
kda89508 said:
Also will cut even when it feels dull!
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Sir is that true or a repeated mantra of sorts? I saw that mentioned multiple times by various owners and users of the boye knives the same way over and over as I was reading about dendritic cobalt. is it due to the den/cobalt or geometry of the knife? I ask as I have no idear.

I'm liking what I'm reading about boyes den/cobalt. I'm not really liking the blades I see for sale with it design wise.....but until in my hand and used, my opinion on visual doesnt mean much......
 
mec003 said:
Thanks guys. Leaving in a couple days and have to choose from what I have. Unless I grab something cheap at walmart. I would love a spyderco pacific salt, but have neither the time nor funds to order one at the moment. I might just pick up a $4 ozark trail folder. Should be serviceable for the week. I'll have to plan better for next year.
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Take the s110v and just rinse/wipe it off every now and then. It's the best combination of edge retention and corrosion resistance you have listed. The BD1 wouldn't be bad either if you want to take something less expensive.
 
jbmonkey said:
Sir is that true or a repeated mantra of sorts? I saw that mentioned multiple times by various owners and users of the boye knives the same way over and over as I was reading about dendritic cobalt. is it due to the den/cobalt or geometry of the knife? I ask as I have no idear.

I'm liking what I'm reading about boyes den/cobalt. I'm not really liking the blades I see for sale with it design wise.....but until in my hand and used, my opinion on visual doesnt mean much......
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Here is a link. This is why it cuts. These are for cutting only but they will cut even when they feel dull. Kevin

https://www.boyeknives.com/pages/new-dendritic-cobalt
 
OP for just occasional "waterside" almost any stainless will suffice with a little maintenance . Main advantage of H1 etc is for low maintenance even with constant exposure to salt water or other corrosives . :cool::thumbsup::thumbsup:
 
If you’re gonna be sleeping on a hammock on the beach for the whole summer, you’re gonna need the pacific salt. If it’s only for a week, bring anything stainless and you’ll be ok.
 
I'd be more concerned about gunking up the internals than a blade quickly rusting. So I'd go for a G&G MUDD , alternatively an Pacific Salt FRN Spyderco in H1.
 
I've got this old Buck that I use as a beach blade. I swim/snorkel with it, dig in the sand, cut open coconuts, open Coronas, etc.

It does the job, and has sand permanently in the pivot. It's nice feeling the grit when opening, kind of like getting home from a vacation and still shaking sand out of your clothes to remind you of it all.

AC1uz9R.jpg
 
mec003 said:
Hey all,
Haven't posted in a while. Question for everyone. I'm going to be at the beach this week. Wondering which knife would be best to edc. It will see some time waterside. I'm curious which knife steel you all would suggest My options are: s110v, s30v, cts-bd1, 8cr13mov, aus8, 154cm, or just some some junk folder that is completely expendable if destroyed. Sadly, I've traded away all of my spyderco's in VG10 which were my go to knives for beach use. Thanks for the advice.
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Boye Cobalt knives are pretty nice, but I don't own one yet. Also, with regard to LC200N, I would stay away from it as it is nowhere near as rust and corrosion resistant as H1. I do not have the videos to back up my statement but they are on YouTube. I've never seen any tests on Boye Cobalt knives, but I have read comments by Sal of Spyderco on Boye Cobalt knives and he did not knock them, so they must be decent.

In answering your question, it all depends on if you want a folder or fixed blade. If you want a fixed blade with a serrated edge, I can make a recommendation. I raced Hobie sailboats in 16ft A Class for years back in my 20's, so I am well aware of corrosion. Was looking for a serrated blade and a corrosion proof knife and after doing quite a bit of research on Blade Forums and Spyderco Forums, I settled on a Spyderco Jumpmaster 2. It's a beast!

Spyderco Jumpmaster 2 Fixed 4.5" H1 Serrated Leaf-Shaped Blade, Black FRN Handles (LIST: $250.00, STREET PRICE: $163.00)

"The original Jumpmaster knife was developed in close cooperation with the U.S. Army 82nd Airborne Division's Jumpmasters as an emergency cutting tool to free "hung" paratroopers during airborne operations. A distinguished member of Spyderco's Salt Series of knives, its 100% rustproof H1 steel blade and fully serrated SpyderEdge not only made short work of military static lines, they also offered the most impressive edge retention of any knife we’ve ever made." (I believe this is a KnifeCenter quote.)

Sal, the owner of Spyderco said in a post on his forum that the H1 steel reacts strangely/differently to any milling process. The H1 steel "work hardens" and what this meant was that as Spyderco cuts the serrations, the HRC goes UP to around 62 to 63. H1 is not a hard steel, and that work hardening would not be throughout the entire blade, just within 1/2 an inch to an inch of the edge. The spine will be soft so it should not snap on you. I wanted a fully serrated edge. This is my Winter carry. It will cut through a leather or Winter jacket like a hot knife through butter.

"The Jumpmaster 2 proudly continues that tradition, taking the extreme cutting power of a fully serrated H1 blade and packing it into an all-purpose leaf-shaped profile that offers greater point utility and eagerly tackles all cutting tasks. Like the original, the Jumpmaster 2's nitrogen-based H1 blade is hollow ground and features a full-thickness spine and a skeletonized full tang for an outstanding combination of balance, strength, and light weight. Its injection-molded, fiberglass-reinforced-nylon (FRN) scales include Bi-Directional Texturing that, together with the handle's refined, ergonomic shape, ensure a positive grip in even the most demanding circumstances. To complement its versatile, do-everything spirit, the Jumpmaster 2 comes complete with a snap-fit, custom-molded Boltaron sheath and a versatile G-Clip mount that supports a full range of carry positions." (I believe this is a KnifeCenter quote.)

Specifications

Blade Length: 4.5"
Cutting Edge: 4"
Overall Length: 9.3"
Blade Thickness: 0.118"
Blade Material: H1
Blade Grind: Hollow
Blade Edge: Serrated
Blade Style: Leaf-Shaped
Handle Material: Fiberglass Reinforced Nylon (FRN)
Sheath: Boltaron G-Clip
Model Number: FB24SBK2
Model Name: Jumpmaster 2
Made in Japan
 
Looking through the options you listed I would recommend CTS BD1. It is probably less expensive than your s110v and is very corrosion resistant in my experience living by the Pacific Ocean.

I think the steel is under-rated actually... it sharpens very easily and is fairly tough.

Have a good time!
 
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I was at the beach on vacation last week and had both my Spyderco Pacific Salt SE (H1 steel) and my new Spyderco Caribbean sheepsfoot SE (LC200N steel). I carried my Caribbean in my board shorts. Swam in the ocean with it and hung out at the beach all day for several days. I had my Pacific Salt in a different set of board shorts that I swam in the pool with. I’d wash each knife out with fresh water in the sink each night. I love both of those knives.
 
I’ve spent hundreds of hours in salt water with a Spyderco Native in S35VN. There will be a few specks of rust on the blade every time but I rinse it with fresh water and just scrape off the spots with a stick or even a finger nail. I have a Spyderco Pacific Salt too but the Native is a far better knife IMO.
 
The Cold Steel 4166 German stainless steel is nearly rust proof. I prefer to take a cheap fixed blade that will not have sand in the pivot joint issues. If I am not going to get sandy, I carry my Pacific Salt, or my Benchmade Griptilian H20.
 
From your list. S110, 154cm and bd1 should be the most stainless. Also take into account the knife design itself. If its a folder, sometimes something easier to clean is better.
 
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