Ajack60
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Try 425 paracord, it’s so much easier to work with.
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Knife Gripes! (Slight Rant Alert)
- Thread starter buffalo01
- Start date
Try 425 paracord, it’s so much easier to work with.
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Yep, that's one of the worst.
I would have sent that back to spyderco with a big "WTF" and an arrow pointing to thatHow about that.
Very nice knife ruined by one thing
Screen from EpicSnuggleBunny review.
And on the pictures it looks like cutting edge is fine because that fake bevel on each side.
ChazzyP
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- Dec 27, 2014
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I'm with most of you on both the lanyard hole thing and the sharpening choil issues. I know I can use lighter cord, but I find the look too thin for my taste, or gut 550, which I'll do if I want a certain look, but I don't like being forced into it when a couple mms would let the cord run freely through the hole and not change the look of the knife in any significant way.
As to the choils, I too dislike those that fall between large enough for sharpening but too small for a finger choil. I don't get why a certain design aesthetic takes precedence over either use or the ability to properly sharpen without making a mess of the edge, plunge grind, flat, ricasso, or handle either. Generally that appearance doesn't make the blade more attractive anyway.
A couple other things that bother me have to do with releasing liner or frame locks. I hate having to use an unnatural (vertical) thumb position, shifting my grip to dig into the lock bar to release it. I find this with some of my ZTs (knives I still like despite this) and had to sell my Spydie Gayle Bradley (an otherwise great knife) as unlocking it just drove me nuts.
The other release issue has to do with the detent ball catching up against the edge of the blade tang at the same point the ricasso or flipper tab hits your thumbnail when releasing the lock. I run into this again with some ZTs , though I must still like 'em as a couple have this both this strike and the one above against them. This is just something to have to get used to in otherwise good knives that I should think a little more design-tweaking could overcome. Hinderer seems to have done just that and I suppose that's some of what you're paying for. I absolutely love my Olamic Wayfarer 247 in this regard with its detent ball ramp cut into the blade tang so there's no chance of this awkward stop-point in closing.
As to the choils, I too dislike those that fall between large enough for sharpening but too small for a finger choil. I don't get why a certain design aesthetic takes precedence over either use or the ability to properly sharpen without making a mess of the edge, plunge grind, flat, ricasso, or handle either. Generally that appearance doesn't make the blade more attractive anyway.
A couple other things that bother me have to do with releasing liner or frame locks. I hate having to use an unnatural (vertical) thumb position, shifting my grip to dig into the lock bar to release it. I find this with some of my ZTs (knives I still like despite this) and had to sell my Spydie Gayle Bradley (an otherwise great knife) as unlocking it just drove me nuts.
The other release issue has to do with the detent ball catching up against the edge of the blade tang at the same point the ricasso or flipper tab hits your thumbnail when releasing the lock. I run into this again with some ZTs , though I must still like 'em as a couple have this both this strike and the one above against them. This is just something to have to get used to in otherwise good knives that I should think a little more design-tweaking could overcome. Hinderer seems to have done just that and I suppose that's some of what you're paying for. I absolutely love my Olamic Wayfarer 247 in this regard with its detent ball ramp cut into the blade tang so there's no chance of this awkward stop-point in closing.
I may be alone here but my gripe is knives that don't slice well. Especially the smaller knives.
Early last year I was looking for a small light carry knife, something for the slicing & cutting duties that come up on a regular basis.
I read a review on the Benchmade Valet under performance & operation there were 5 paragraphs about opening and closing. Not a mention anywhere in the article about cutting ability.
Is cutting ability not considered performance anymore.
I did get a chance to use a Valet, the feel and size were right, it was easy to open and close. Unfortunately I wasn't impressed with it's performance. The valet is just begging for a flat grind.
Reality for me is I spend more time using a knife to cut stuff, than I do stabbing car doors, chopping down small trees or killing zombies and I never pry. Cutting ability is the most important performance aspect of a knife.
I wound up waiting until Ontario released the Rat 2 – D2. That sub $40 knife out performs the $170 valet. Maybe I can't brag about G-10 and M390 but so what.
Early last year I was looking for a small light carry knife, something for the slicing & cutting duties that come up on a regular basis.
I read a review on the Benchmade Valet under performance & operation there were 5 paragraphs about opening and closing. Not a mention anywhere in the article about cutting ability.
Is cutting ability not considered performance anymore.
I did get a chance to use a Valet, the feel and size were right, it was easy to open and close. Unfortunately I wasn't impressed with it's performance. The valet is just begging for a flat grind.
Reality for me is I spend more time using a knife to cut stuff, than I do stabbing car doors, chopping down small trees or killing zombies and I never pry. Cutting ability is the most important performance aspect of a knife.
I wound up waiting until Ontario released the Rat 2 – D2. That sub $40 knife out performs the $170 valet. Maybe I can't brag about G-10 and M390 but so what.
ChazzyP
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Yeah, I'm with you on cutting ability,
D
Dean51
. It didn't really occur to me to mention it as one can tell a lot about a blade's geometry from pictures and specs and I generally factor that into any potential purchase. I like FFGs, High FGs, and High HGs and tend to shy away from others. Blade thickness plays into that too, so aside from a few that have been bought specifically for thicker blades or because I'm just intrigued by the knife, I buy those that I'm pretty sure will be good cutters and/or slicers.
I have plenty other tools for chopping, prying, etc and, despite my cranky knees, can generally still outrun Zombies.
I have plenty other tools for chopping, prying, etc and, despite my cranky knees, can generally still outrun Zombies.
I bought some small Benchmade models because their blades are thinner so I figured that they're better slicers. But it seems that they're the same thickness behind the edge like standard models just with thinner back. You want a folding slicer, you must buy SAK/Opinel/Even cheap traditional navaja. On plastic floor molding every modern folder with thick blade behind the edge will fail, only SAK can cut through.
- Joined
- May 15, 2017
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Anything in the slicing path. Very annoying especially when re-sharpening. Bothers a lot of you, bothers me to no end as well. Beats me why knife designers and manufacturers haven't gotten the hint yet.
Super-slick handles. By this, I mean both the texture and the shape of the handle is slick. I'm not referring to my Code 4 whose handles are slick in texture but grippy in shape, I have no issues with my Code 4 being slippery; but I was looking at the new Real Steel G5 Metamorph and I was like, I'm not going to use that knife. Same complaint with most of the classic SAKs which I've had several close calls with. I do use my folders fairly hard sometimes, so this is a big issue for me.
Blade dulls itself by hitting the backspacer when closing. This is something I've encountered with my Gerber Dime (of course), and unfortunately, my Victorinox Hiker as well. I think this is absolutely inexcusable on anything bearing a brand name.
Rugged workhorse folder designs that run on bearings. I understand if fancy knives have bearings, but the Real Steel T101 Thor is as rugged and utilitarian as can be, and I'd love it if it had phosphor bronze washers. With most Real Steel folders in general using bearings, sadly, I won't be picking up another Real Steel anytime soon. They are moving away from rugged, hard-use folders in favour of fancy EDC folders now, so there's that as well.
Oh, and lack of a sharpening choil does annoy me as well.
Super-slick handles. By this, I mean both the texture and the shape of the handle is slick. I'm not referring to my Code 4 whose handles are slick in texture but grippy in shape, I have no issues with my Code 4 being slippery; but I was looking at the new Real Steel G5 Metamorph and I was like, I'm not going to use that knife. Same complaint with most of the classic SAKs which I've had several close calls with. I do use my folders fairly hard sometimes, so this is a big issue for me.
Blade dulls itself by hitting the backspacer when closing. This is something I've encountered with my Gerber Dime (of course), and unfortunately, my Victorinox Hiker as well. I think this is absolutely inexcusable on anything bearing a brand name.
Rugged workhorse folder designs that run on bearings. I understand if fancy knives have bearings, but the Real Steel T101 Thor is as rugged and utilitarian as can be, and I'd love it if it had phosphor bronze washers. With most Real Steel folders in general using bearings, sadly, I won't be picking up another Real Steel anytime soon. They are moving away from rugged, hard-use folders in favour of fancy EDC folders now, so there's that as well.
Oh, and lack of a sharpening choil does annoy me as well.
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- Nov 16, 2017
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Im probably the only person this bothers, but I absolutely detest how almost all budget (and some high end!) Spyderco's curve the tip of the blade down into a mini-wharncliff shape. It drives me freakin nuts, and I would have sunk 1,000's more into their products if they didnt ruin (imo) their blades like that. It just looks like they broke the tip and tried to cover it up with a regrind... 
vanadium
Basic Member
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- Apr 5, 2003
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- 813
- Unprotected satin-finish titanium. Gets a thousand scratches and looks like junk 5 minutes after you open the box. What's the point? So many good knife designs ruined by this choice.
- Liner lock bars with no finger chamfer. Seriously, how much money are they saving?
- Flat top screws (i.e. not button head). They just look cheap to me, even if they're not.
- Stonewashed blades where the detent track wasn't masked off.
- Every torx screw that could be T8 or larger, but isn't.
- Liner lock bars with no finger chamfer. Seriously, how much money are they saving?
- Flat top screws (i.e. not button head). They just look cheap to me, even if they're not.
- Stonewashed blades where the detent track wasn't masked off.
- Every torx screw that could be T8 or larger, but isn't.
So you mean a sheep's foot that's not straight from sloppy sharpening/grinding or like on a Griptillian?
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- Jan 15, 2013
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I'm looking at YOU ZT!
Folders that are fregg'in too thick in the pocket like carrying a brick around and makes it hard to get your hand in the pocket to get it out. I've carried a police for years and I'd like something along those lines as far as thickness goes. An emerson 7 is twice as thick, can a folder not be made stout and thin at the same time?
Number one - not having the whole blade sharpened. So many companies were doing that and I had to spend so much time on diamond stones fixing what should have come from the factory. ARGH!!!
Number two - soft screw heads. So frustrating when they strip and you can't get them out or put them bach. Argh again!
Number two - soft screw heads. So frustrating when they strip and you can't get them out or put them bach. Argh again!
How about that.
Very nice knife ruined by one thing
Screen from EpicSnuggleBunny review.
And on the pictures it looks like cutting edge is fine because that fake bevel on each side.
you could sharpen that out on the sharpmaker XD