Knife Kit Scale Installation on Washed Blade

[Texhoma]

Have to confess that I ma new here and recently bitten by the knife bug

A friend asked me if I could re-handle a knife for her. I did and it came out really well. that is when I was hooked.

So I ordered a couple knife kits to play with.

Hence, my first issue I have been pondering on and was wanting some input.

The kits I ordered are stone washed blades. So, if I do the usual scale/glue/sand on the scales, I loose the wash effect on the spine, etc.

Any options other than dry fitting the pins and hand sanding/fitting the scales off the blade?

If there are any tutorials, please point me in the right direction as I have not been able to find any that helps in this situation.

Any advice would be appreciated.

 

[NJBillK]

Just for ease on your end with an added bonus (I'll explain)...
Sand the scales as you would normally, and sacrifice the stonewash on the handle spine but polish the rest of the spine as well, all the way to the tip. Leave the flats stonewashed for a nice contrast.

As for tips or help offered:

Go through your grits and bring the polish up on the slabs. I normally use a belt grinder for all of the hogging and bulk material removal, then I move to files for a bulk of the shaping.

Then I use various wooden dowels (1/2", 3/4", 1") as well as a 6" length of paint stirrer stick and other items wrapped in my sandpaper to do the final shaping, polishing of curves, and other "flat" work.
-Polishing the tang, spine, bringing the polish up inside choils, etc.

The reason for something comparatively solid (sandin block, dowel, file, et al) wrapped in sandpaper is that your finger will compress and shape to the spine. This will stop you from removing all of the old, lower grit marks effectively as well as producing a "smoother" finished product.
-Don't scrub back and forth when finishing a grit. Once you are just about done and before you move on to th next higher grit, take a few passes starting at one end and going to a hard to see/reach spot in one pass. Lift your sand paper off and start again. By doing this, you will remove the unsightly scrub marks (they will look like a "J") and replace them with nice, smooth, polished lines that will seem to be much easier to refinish prior to moving up again.

Buy Good Sandpaper! Do not Skimp!
You will waste your money and burn through it faster when you buy cheap stuff. Red 3M, gator, and other higher end stuff is Very Much suggested. Check your local paint department, automotive atores, or buy online.

My grit progression is often 220, 400, 600 (sometimes I skip 600), 800, 1k, 2k, 5k.
All dry sanded, especially the wet/dry. THAT stuff is silicon carbide (SiC) and the slurry that is shed will get into the grain of the wood (even when stabilized) and turn it an unsightly dingy, grey color.
Use it dry, and unfortunately you will just have to accept that you will use it like it is free... It is a consumable and it goes fast.

Once you are up to 2k-5k, you can wipe it down with some Boiled Linseed Oil or BLO as it is often referred to on here. Give it a wipe and let that dry for 15-30 mins and then do that a few times. This will bring out the character in the wood.

For reference, the flecks of white and color changing/depth that occurs in some woods is called Chatoyance. this will often be brought out when you are over 2k grit and especially after you use some BLO.
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Best of luck and post some photos.

Edit to add: Welcome aboard.

 

[Texhoma]

Thanks for the welcome and many thanks for the other tips and help!

I was afraid I was overlooking something simple or a easy method of saving the stonewash. Looked everywhere and could not find a good answer.

Will post some pictures if it does not come out too embarrassing.

 

[NJBillK]

We all have to start somewhere and starting with passion is never a bad place to be.
Have fun.