Knife Lube!

[stitchawl]

Solvent's dissolve lubricants. It seems people keep forgetting this when talking about WD-40. Yes, it has 15% mineral oil. That is a lubricant. But 50% of the liquid is a solvent! I use it often for that purpose. It does a great job of cleaning out old joints, and is an excellent rust breaker. Spray it on, give a few taps with a hammer to set up micro-vibrations, let it sit a day, repeat the spray and tap, and most stuck nuts and screws back off easily.

I use it to flush out old lubricants. It works great for that. Safer on most materials than using Carb Cleaner. But after cleaning out the parts and letting the Stoddard Solvent dry completely, I go back and apply some sort of lubricant to the metals.

I tried using White Lightning for a couple of years and then gave up on it. Too much build up. Probably good rust protection, but not enough slip for my needs. I cleaned it all out with WD-40.

I switched to an oil product with teflon and have been using that for the past 10 years. A drop or two (only) into the pivot of a folder and the damn knife almost closes itself. I use Tuff-Glide (or just the Marine Tuf-Cloth) on the blades themselves as protection. The combination of the two have served me well. Never have a rust problem with anything I've used with this combination.

Stitchawl

 

[frontline29]

WD-40 as we all should know is not a lubricant, it will penetrate and clean and get rid of moisture and even protect steel from rusting but quickly fails as an effective lubricant.

Exactly...:thumbup::thumbup::thumbup:I thought this was common Knowledge by now.

 

[frontline29]

Sorry guys double post.

 

[Jason B.]

Why? People use mineral oil all the time on their knives, and as bearcut so aptly pointed out, that is part of WD-40. A highly volatile solvent mixed with a nonvolatile lubricant.

I'm not saying it's great long term, or won't attract dirt and lint like some dry film lubricants, but it does work.

It works but is not effective, in short time the action of opening gets increasingly harder and with the aid of all the attracted dirt can get to the point of almost needing two hands. This is not what I would consider a good lube, with my BM blue lube some knives I have only oiled once in the course of a year and they are just as smooth as the day they got oiled. The knife itself will also play a big part in how effective any lube will be, lots of variables when multiple types of surfaces make contact.

I stick with the good stuff it just simply works better. It will make a non-flickable, flickable again and of all the other oils and lubes its actually made for knives. You don't use WD on a gun you use gun oil. Know what I mean

 

[jonnyt16]

Here's my secret: Gun Butter. I have tried many many lubricants and this has performed the best by far. A gunsmith recommended it to me for my firearms and what a blessing this stuff has been. While it is expensive (around $15 for a very small bottle) a tiny application of this stuff goes a long way. I buy mine from Midway USA.

 

[theron]

I have been using Singer sewing machine oil, so far it seems to be working pretty well.

I switched to an oil product with teflon and have been using that for the past 10 years. A drop or two (only) into the pivot of a folder and the damn knife almost closes itself. I use Tuff-Glide (or just the Marine Tuf-Cloth) on the blades themselves as protection. The combination of the two have served me well. Never have a rust problem with anything I've used with this combination.

Stitchawl

That combo sounds like it would work out really well. I might give that a try :thumbup:

T

 

[gurka]

+ 1 for the Zoom turbine oil, every HVAC service mechanic carry's it.
And FWIW the Zoom rust buster is the best penetrant I've ever used and I've used darn near all of um, it's unbelieveable stuff !

 

[frgtn340]

All this talk about mountain bikes makes me wanna ride! I didn't know so many of my fellow knife knuts are also into riding! Here's me on my Santa Cruz Superlight in Angwin, CA.

NICE MAN! I recently sold my kona because I realized I like cross country a lot better. I'm looking at a specialized Stumpy FSR!

BTW I only use WD40 to clean my knives. All this info about white lightning is making me nervous! Is it really that bad?

 

[kmhawaiidh]

I've used them all, Been mountain biking since 1993. Just started using Dumondtech this past year, and oh my god! what an incredible lube! Hardly any buildup, makes your chain silent! Main thing I found is clean chain really well with Brake cleaner , then alcohol, let dry, apply Dumondtech wipe off excess then let sit overnight.

As far as knife lube try CorrosionX.

 

[100eyes]

I'm using Tuf-Glide and Chris Reeves lube. The positive feedbacks about Blue Lube makes me want to give it a try! Dammit, you guys made me buy something again.

 

[syltetoy]

After reading some uses for my White Lightning bike chain lube, I decided to try it out on one of my knives. Let me say that this stuff lives up to it's advertising! Not only does it make bike chains buttery smooth, but it makes knife deployment "lightning" FAST! It is a wax based lube which wicks away dirt and grime as it comes in contact with them. I have applied it to all of my knives! It seems that it works best when you let it dry for a couple of minutes! Look this stuff up!!!

*I do not work for or have any connection with white lightning*

The best bicycle chain lube I've found is PROLINK as for knives I use "non toxic" mineral oil

http://www.progoldmfr.com/products/prodindex.html#bike

 

[bearcut]

ProLink is what I use on my bikes. It is definitely one of the best chain lubes on the market. It works in winter also,
(I ride studs) It works well on knives too. I’ve used it in a pinch.

My regular knife lube for years has been Corrosion-X.

I have a set of dedicated kitchen knives so I don’t worry about cross contamination from my folders. The exception would be when I go backpacking. I still don't worry about it.

Personally, I feel that if you use enough lube to contaminate your food, you are using too much lube!

Fischer HiFi Plus - Mtn. / Trek Pilot CF - road

 

[syltetoy]

ProLink is what I use on my bikes. It is definitely one of the best chain lubes on the market. It works in winter also,
(I ride studs) It works well on knives too. I’ve used it in a pinch.

My regular knife lube for years has been Corrosion-X.

I have a set of dedicated kitchen knives so I don’t worry about cross contamination from my folders. The exception would be when I go backpacking. I still don't worry about it.

Personally, I feel that if you use enough lube to contaminate your food, you are using too much lube!

Fischer HiFi Plus - Mtn. / Trek Pilot CF - road

I believe the best way to maintain a chain and it should work on most mechanical items (folding knives) also, is to lube it when its new then keep it clean afterwards. If you lube a dirty chain the lube will carry the dirt (grit) into to the chain (pivot points), become a grinding compound and accelerate wear.

 

[Native Justice]

I've always used EEZOX, Boeshield T-9 and White Lightening EPIC with great success on my knives, the last two on my GT XCR 2000. Our mountains are pretty brutal with lots of abrasives that can eat up your chains and cartridges in a hurry if not protected well. There is no "gunk" factor with these lubes, I get no accumulation of dust, debris, etc. and have not had to replace a chain, my Fox cartridge or Marz shocks because of abrasive damage and have yet to clean up any crap inside my knife pivot points. Take it for what you will ... they've worked for me.

 

[RRTX2007]

I use Eezox myself. I would NEVER use a wax/paraffin-based lube on my folders/autos...maybe my fixed blades but why??? A good dry lube like Eezox works better.