Knife Maintenance in the Field w/out Tools

[Obsessed with Edges]

I'm working A2, 3V and 154CM for the most part, although I use it on more or less whatever I have around. Often that will be ZDP-189, ELMAX, M4 or M390. Just depends on what I have in my pocket at the time, really.

I use BRKT's compounds, I really have NO idea how they'd compare to Ryobi's stuff. For the most part, the black seems to work quite well for me. Pressure control, of course, is mandatory to avoid rounding, as with any strop.

Thanks. Sounds like you're stropping much more abrasion-resistant stuff than I was. Most of what I'd tried with my 'black' compound was simple stuff by comparison, like 1095, 420HC, etc.

 

[HeavyHanded]

I think we may be on the same page, as to which one I'm using. Mine is in a cardboard 'tube', but with what I'd call a 'wax crayon' in it. Very hard & dry stuff. Doesn't apply to leather real easily, which is why I hadn't used it much thus far. But, I did 'crayon' some of it onto a wooden dowel recently, and have 'stropped' some knives on it with very good results. Your recent thread on finding a new use for a honing steel (which you taped with compound applied to it) put that idea in my head. :thumbup:

Here's a stock pic of the Ryobi compound I was referring to:

Hands down the easiest tip I have re stropping is to just wrap a single layer of newspaper around a stone, lightly rub w/ compound and strop away. It might be a touch harder than MDF - when it loads up you just toss it. If the black compound is a touch aggressive, wrap two layers of paper. Either way, after stropping a bit you can flip the paper and give it a few more passes on the un-compounded (?) side. Works very, very well. Only thing to watch out for is to sweep off the stone before wrapping, and the paper before applying compound - any small bits of grit can damage the edge even with a light touch, especially on Scandi and FFG edges. I've started playing around with the masking tape, and it makes just about any hard surface a possible stropping implement. Don't know why I never thought of that before.

Edit:
Most compounds take to the paper very well, Ryobi yellow is the only one I've found so far that doesn't like it - the binder clumps up no matter what I do. A drop of mineral oil helps work it in but also degrades its performance.

 

[awestib]

Great thread once again! I seem to have big problems to get the black (bark river) crayon compound on paper or masking tape. Heating it up a bit makes it easier but also messier. Have not tried an oily mix yet. I stick with a very thin leather on a wooden strop, loaded with the black compound. Works ok, have the feeling though it is quite aggressive and wants to build a burr quickly!! Any advise?

 

[Komitadjie]

Bear in mind that there's a LOT of grit per volume of that crayon! You don't need much, just a barely-visible colour on the surface is more than sufficient to do the job.

 

[grizzled gizzard]

It seems a lot easier for me to just take two good knives. Most of us probably carry two knives at all times anyway.

Taking appropriate knives, and using them wisely, will obviate the need to sharpen your knives before you get home.

In the far off chance that you find yourself actually needing to sharpen a knife in the boonies, that probably won't rank very highly on your list of priorities.

 

[HeavyHanded]

Great thread once again! I seem to have big problems to get the black (bark river) crayon compound on paper or masking tape. Heating it up a bit makes it easier but also messier. Have not tried an oily mix yet. I stick with a very thin leather on a wooden strop, loaded with the black compound. Works ok, have the feeling though it is quite aggressive and wants to build a burr quickly!! Any advise?

If the wax binder is real hard, apply just a drop of mineral oil to the block and rub it in for a few seconds - then rub it across the paper lengthwise trying not to overlap too many times. I've also found adding a drop or two of mineral oil to the baggie I keep my compounds in (individually) will let the block soak it up over time and it softens the whole surface of the block. You can 'tame' aggressive compounds somewhat by adding a drop of oil directly to the surface of the paper after rubbing the compound on it - allows you to make a slurry on the paper. This gets tricky fast tho, just a bit too much oil and the abrasive in the compound will move around too much on the paper. Not a big problem if stropping on hardwood, doesn't work well on paper or leather in my experience. Keep in mind, by applying abrasive to leather or paper you give it a surface to sink into. From my experiences using abrasive grit lapped off a waterstone, the scratch/grind marks are orders of magnitude smaller when stropping on paper or stiff leather compared to what you get when they're still embedded in a ceramic or resin block. In other words don't worry about the abrasive being too aggressive (unless you're using 120 or 220 grit stuff) - if it raises a burr just let up on the pressure and you can take it right back off. Keep in mind also if the leather isn't nearly as stiff as a piece of wood, you need to use very light pressure anyway and will get a much less pronounced effect. The harder your backing the more pressure you can use (within reason) without worrying about rounding the apex off. You'll find the compound acts a lot differently as well...