Knife maitenance and sharpening help.

bucketstove said:
:) I don't exactly agree , learning to sharpen on a $130 stone ...
you know you can dislodge the diamonds by using too much force ...
which means if you have a lot of metal removal to do diamonds are slow
as a beginner I like my cheap sic/alox stones better than the cheap diamonds
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For one, you aren't paying $130 for a single stone. You are getting (2) 2 sided big 8" DMT's in 220, 325, 600, and 1200 grits.

Second, have you used DMT diamond stones before? Not to come of arrogant or anything but this line: "diamonds are slow" really has me confused. The only thing I can think a DMT Extra Course stone is "slow" in comparison to would be a 2X72 grinder with a fresh belt. I can see maybe some of the cheaper diamond stones such as the harbor freight ones having issues with diamond tear-out but never quality stones. The will break in at first and maybe after several thousands of knives lose some aggression. I have and use diamond stones from DMT, Atoma, and Fallkniven and all are great.

The fast cutting speeds can be an advantage and disadvantage. For one, less passes means less room for error. A big advantage when learning. On the other hand, a beginner does have the danger of over-doing it so that can definitely be a downside.
 
chucknduck said:
For one, you aren't paying $130 for a single stone. You are getting (2) 2 sided big 8" DMT's in 220, 325, 600, and 1200 grits.

Second, have you used DMT diamond stones before? Not to come of arrogant or anything but this line: "diamonds are slow" really has me confused. The only thing I can think a DMT Extra Course stone is "slow" in comparison to would be a 2X72 grinder with a fresh belt. I can see maybe some of the cheaper diamond stones such as the harbor freight ones having issues with diamond tear-out but never quality stones. The will break in at first and maybe after several thousands of knives lose some aggression. I have and use diamond stones from DMT, Atoma, and Fallkniven and all are great.

The fast cutting speeds can be an advantage and disadvantage. For one, less passes means less room for error. A big advantage when learning. On the other hand, a beginner does have the danger of over-doing it so that can definitely be a downside.
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:D so you get four stones to use too much pressure on and damage ?

:) No , I don't own dmts ... but on the internet you can read about people damaging diamonds stones, for example this guy wears out smiths diamonds how to sharpen a knife - Joe Calton

dollar tree stone, or norton Economy stone , can both take 20+lbs easy , flatten a chisel very very quickly, but that amount of force would damage a diamond plate, so you have to use less, which takes longer, thats what I mean by slow

thats also why I'd avoid diamonds as a first stone, unless somebody is there to help teach you sharpening, <$10 dollar stones (esp ~$1 ones) are a much better education ... they'll help you appreciate more expensive stones
 
Hey guys! So I went with a Norton Double sided whetstone from my local knife store for $30. Just out of curiousity, do people ever hold the stone with their hands if, for example, you lack a nice level surface? And what is the best way to find your free handing angle?
 
I wouldnt hold it in your hand until you have a bit more experience, and the best way to find the angle is the sharpie trick unless you are rebeveling, and dont do that until you are more experienced. So mark the edge with a sharpie, then adjust the angle until all the sharpie on the apex gets ground off.
 
ItalianStallion303 said:
Hey guys! So I went with a Norton Double sided whetstone from my local knife store for $30. Just out of curiousity, do people ever hold the stone with their hands if, for example, you lack a nice level surface? And what is the best way to find your free handing angle?
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6 inch or 8 inch? Which stone? http://www.sharpeningsupplies.com/Assets/images/ncmbn.jpg http://www.sharpeningsupplies.com/Assets/images/ncmbc.jpg http://www.sharpeningsupplies.com/Assets/images/ecshk.jpg http://www.sharpeningsupplies.com/Assets/Images/TRADOILKIT.jpg


I got 6 inch stone, I usually do this for first part of sharpening before microbevel
I'm very very very very very careful that my palm swell is beneath the stone along with my thumb and all the other fingers,
and that stone is at least stone length away from the bicep
and that the hand is raised up so the forearm and the veiny wrist are is inclined up so it isn't in knife path
and then i'm careful not let knife leave the stone, esp when I'm going fast
but when I started I went very slow and deliberate
sometime i rest my stone hand near knee and put my foot on a stool to keep angled up

I actually made a little holder to add more distance between me and the stone and keep oil/water off my hand

In addition to sharpie trick, put edge on stone, put finger (thumb or pointer depending on direction) the edge, the knife will balance at the existing angle, then just hold it at that angle :) dont cut yourself, dull the knife first

basic sharpening method (raise a tiny burr (or none), weaken it, cut it off with microbevel) , table, paper towel, brick, papertowel, sharpeningstone ... good info, sharpie trick ... how to sharpen a knife - Joe Calton
stone in hand, using a skinny stone but same placement, deliberate movements, sharpening starts at 2:20 Tyrolit silicon carbide/carborundum 120/400 grit sharpening stone - Stefan Wolf
rag/towel on table Silicon carbide / carborundum sharpening stone made by ZAI - Berkovitsa - Stefan Wolf
paper towel on bench/table, wood block on top, paper towel, norton stone Norton Econo stone revisited - Neuman2010
dangerously exposed palm well, stone in hand with oil ,but 20+ years of practice Norton Economy vs 420J2 : a little sharpening and stone maintenance - CliffStamp
 
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