Knife Maker Recomendation needed

B

Brommeland

Joined
Jul 28, 2003
Messages
747
Hey folks!

I am moving away from thick knives. As my skills have progressed, I find fewer and fewer reasons to beat on a knife, but instead find myself valuing slicing ability and all around sharpness more than "toughness".

I'd like someone to make me a spear point bushcraft/gen purpose outdoor knife with a 4-4.5" blade 3/32 to 1/8" thick with a full height convex grind. Steel choice would be 3V or maybe Cruwear. Any suggestions? Thanks in advance.
 
If you want your design...no. But Scott Gossman does stuff very similar to what you're asking I'm pretty sure.
 
At 9/64's the LT Wright GNS in 3V is very close to your description. I own it and am very pleased with it. Can't beat the price either. I paid $150 new from a forum member on the exchange.
 
Camber said:
If you want your design...no. But Scott Gossman does stuff very similar to what you're asking I'm pretty sure.
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Agreed. I love Grossman's work, but he refuses to do customs.

Midwest Firecraft said:
You can find it cheaper but here is one:
http://www.dlttrading.com/lt-wright-gns-3v-convex-black-canvas-matte
They are available in scandi, saber, and convex.
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Thank you! I did not know that LT did anything in convex anymore. This might just be what I'm looking for. Question: I've owned 4 of LT's knives, and they all had a highly polished secondary bevel that refused to bite, but rather tended to slide off of stuff rather than cut it. Are his convex knives a zero grind, or do they have that same secondary bevel? Thanks again!
 
Brommeland said:
Thank you! I did not know that LT did anything in convex anymore. This might just be what I'm looking for. Question: I've owned 4 of LT's knives, and they all had a highly polished secondary bevel that refused to bite, but rather tended to slide off of stuff rather than cut it. Are his convex knives a zero grind, or do they have that same secondary bevel? Thanks again!
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My GNS is a saber grind. When I set it up in the wicked edge, it had a 19.5-20 degree bevel. I set it to 19 degrees and it has been a phenomenal blade. I have never had a knife with such a sharp tip, and almost knife like 90 degree on the spine. Sorry I can't comment on the convex, but from everything I have read, they do have a micro bevel. I don't think this should be a deal breaker though,can't you just remove the secondary bevel?
 
Midwest Firecraft said:
Sorry I can't comment on the convex, but from everything I have read, they do have a micro bevel. I don't think this should be a deal breaker though,can't you just remove the secondary bevel?
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Thank you for the reply. In answer to your question, yes - I can remove the micro bevel - I've had to do it on about half of the BR's that I've owned, though I suspect that the 3V will be a bit harder to do than BR's A2.

I appreciate your bringing this option to my attention. I have a 3V Convex Next Gen on the way now.('Bought it used - didn't realize that they were still being made until I went to DLT's website following the link that you posted.) If it works out, then a Convex GNS is likely my next purchase. Thank you again.
 
Give LT a call.. I am sure all your questions would be answered.. They are good folks!! :thumbsup: John
 
I have an LT Wright GNS in AEB-L instead of 3V ... but it had a micro bevel but it's very easily removed. And I love the knife.
 
JJ_Colt45 said:
I have an LT Wright GNS in AEB-L instead of 3V ... but it had a micro bevel but it's very easily removed. And I love the knife.
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I've read reviews of the AEB-L that state that the edge retention is pretty weak. Since you actually own (and presumably use) one, what has your experience been? Thanks.
 
I have had mine about 4 months taken it on a few camping trips and used it several times ... it wont hold an edge like some of the high vandium steels but in this knife (which is my only experience with AEB-L) with the convex grind has held its edge fairly well and it is very easy to touch up with a strop or ceramic rod and will take as sharp an edge as any knife I own.

I know it wouldn't compete with 3V for toughness but this knife wasn't purchased for that so I've been pleased with it. Everything I've owned from LT Wright has been top notch.
 
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JJ_Colt45 said:
I have had mine about 4 months taken it on a few camping trips and used it several times ... it wont hold an edge like some of the high vandium steels but in this knife (which is my only experience with AEB-L) with the convex grind has held its edge fairly well and it is very easy to touch up with a strop or ceramic rod and will take as sharp an edge as any knife I own.

I know it wouldn't compete with 3V for toughness but this knife wasn't purchased for that so I've been pleased with it. Everything I've owned from LT Wright has been top notch.
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Thanks for the reply. Lemme ask you this: I don't really need super steel edge retention. In fact, the sharpest thing I've ever held in my hand is a stainless Opinel #9 that I hand convexed to a zero grind and stropped. This thing will make feathers like no other knife that I've ever used, but after one fuzz stick, it's lost that super bite and needs a quick trip to the strop. After a dozen or so passes on the strop, it is back to screamin' sharp again.
I don't mind having to strop a knife after every use, so long as it will get screamin' sharp and hold the edge long enough to make one large feather stick.

If the AEB-L is like that, I'll be all over it. If it had better edge retention than the Opinel (which I believe is Sandvik 12C) so much the better. Any further light that you could shed here would be appreciated. Thanks!
 
well I would say from my limited use at least LT Wright has it so it takes a great edge and very easily ... the strop (a firmer) ... is actually what I used with an exception of a 1200 grit ceramic rod just to see how it worked ... and the AEB-L gets wicked sharp easy.

It's much finer grained than many steels if I understand right its about the finest grain structure for a stainless steel.

But I love how easy it is to sharpen and maintain and it is stainless ... but it sharpens to me much more like a 52100 or 5160 carbon steel and is great for feathersticks or fine cuts.

I have a couple knives in the Sandvik 12C27 ... and hadn't thought about it but I'd say you're pretty close to a comparision after you mentioned it ... with the type of great edge it takes ... and it retains the edge at least as well and from my uses so far I prefer it and I have never had it feel really dull ... I just strop or a few passes on the ceramic rod and it is easy to maintain that crazy sharp edge with minor touch ups.
 
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You're welcome I hope you love your new knife ... I think from what you said you'll like the AEB-L ... lets us know what you think after you have a chance to use it some.
 
Kootaga13 said:
Are you describing a Kephart except the grind?
Didn't they have a FFG?
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I'm specifically looking at an LT Wright Genesis in convex AEB-L - which is (imo) a perfectly modernized incarnation of the Kephart design. I am also considering a GNS in Convex 3V. I have a Next Gen coming in convex 3V, so I'll have more info in a few days.

I've owned two FFG Genesis (A2) and while I love the balance and feel of this design, I was very disappointed in their performance...Hoping that a convex grind and the AEB-L steel might change that. I love the design of the knife, just not the cutting ability & edge retention.

Still weighing options.
 
The secret to AEB-L is to have the hardness at around 62-63 RC. At this hardness it will hold an edge very, very well and is still pretty tough. Very easy to resharpen too, think high carbon. I've made thousands of small slicer type knives from AEB-L and have great respect for it. It is the only stainless I use. Now not trying to steal LT's gig cause what you are looking for is not what I do. Just telling you about the steel. I also make my own leather roundknives from this steel.

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This was my Christmas batch of sheaths.

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Also for Christmas orders I had two pairs of leggings (chaps), three rifle scabbards, two pairs of spurstraps, several belts, other misc sheaths etc. The knife cut out all these without needing to be resharpened. It still hasn't been resharpened and today it will cut out 35 more sheaths. Strop it now and then and it will keep on cutting and cutting and cutting.

AEB-L sometimes gets a bad rap for edge holding but usually its being run too soft. All my leather knives are at 63 RC and my everyday knives and kitchen knives are at 62RC.

Practically speaking for real life ya'd have a hard time picking a better steel.

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Heck I've even made bowies out of it:

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Ya get one of their knives in AEB-L, get the edge how ya want it and you'll be happy.
 
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