Knife Maker Recomendation needed

The secret to AEB-L is to have the hardness at around 62-63 RC. At this hardness it will hold an edge very, very well and is still pretty tough. Very easy to resharpen too, think high carbon.
AEB-L sometimes gets a bad rap for edge holding but usually its being run too soft. All my leather knives are at 63 RC and my everyday knives and kitchen knives are at 62RC.

I can see that you are going out of your way not to step on LT's toes, and this speaks well of you. However, you have hit upon my primary reason for hesitation with regard to buying a Genesis in AEB-L - he runs 'em at 57-59 Rockwell C scale. Everything that I've read says that AEB-L is optimized exactly where you do it - around 62. I've owned two FFG and one scandi Genesis in A2 and they were all three very mediocre with regards to edge retention (no comparison to BR's A2). I've had Buck's Bose cryo'd 420HC hold an edge as well, perhaps slightly better.

That's not to bad mouth LT - I like his work. And, I understand why he does it the way he does - "bushcrafters" like to beat the holy hell out of their knives, and if he ran it harder he'd be replacing knives left and right for folks who like to chop bricks and rocks. As you know (probably much better than I) heat treat can be (and really needs to be) optimized for a blade's intended use. Since his customers like to beat on their knives, he's optimized his heat treat for toughness. I get that.

My other hesitation is that he likes to grind his convex kinda thick near the edge and then add a secondary bevel to make it cut - again, to make it more durable. However, I want a knife to cut.....I rarely beat on my knives. So, I'm looking for a knife that takes a wicked edge and holds it a reasonable period of time, and easily resharpens back to that screamin' edge. I'm still trying to determine if the convex Genesis is the right knife for me.

USPS says that my convex 3V Next Gen will be here tomorrow. Maybe that will help me sort this all out.
 
Hey folks!

I am moving away from thick knives. As my skills have progressed, I find fewer and fewer reasons to beat on a knife, but instead find myself valuing slicing ability and all around sharpness more than "toughness".

I'd like someone to make me a spear point bushcraft/gen purpose outdoor knife with a 4-4.5" blade 3/32 to 1/8" thick with a full height convex grind. Steel choice would be 3V or maybe Cruwear. Any suggestions? Thanks in advance.

I believe i can help you with that. I and pretty familiar with convex grinding, and 3V is one of my favorite steels. Z-Wear would also work well for that task. 3V would be tougher whereas Z-Wear/cruwear will have better edge holding. My books are open.
If you decide to go with the LT wright knife i wish you the best of luck. I havent used any of their knives, but have heard great things.
 
B Brommeland gotcha. I've never been one of the use a knife for axe work, guys. I have an axe. Heck even a chainsaw. Course I don't use an axe to slice tomatoes either!

I do use A2 for some of my hunters and skinners and run that at 62rc too. Exceptional performance there.

Good luck with your quest.
 
'Just got the Next Gen. Typical LT quality of grind, fit & finish. Beautiful knife. It also has LT's typical secondary bevel and the dullest POS knife that I own out-cut it right out of the box. I'm going to have to fix the grind. I've already worked on it with a diamond and some ceramics a bit and it now cuts like my Bark Rivers and Fallknivens do when they badly need to be sharpened. I'll rework it with sandpaper and strop it. I expect it to be fine, but this is my fifth LT Wright knife & probably my last. When spending money on good quality gear, I don't want to have to fix it to make it work well. YMMV.
 
Didn't need to warn after all. Too late huh? Was just on your website. Very cool when ya get a chance click on the Instagram link in my signature line. B Brommeland
 
When spending money on good quality gear, I don't want to have to fix it to make it work well. YMMV.

As you mentioned, to each his own. What I really appreciate about LT knives is the attention to details for the price. I like the sealed handles so the tang won't rust, sharp spines, and tip. For $180 I can take 30 minutes on the wicked edge and get the exact bevel and cutting performance I want, with a lifetime warranty. Infi is my favorite steel and almost all the bevels are 30 to 40 degrees. Good for chopping bricks, not cutting, but after a half hour, and a 19 degree bevel it is sweet!
 
Thank you sir B Brommeland . The wife does the flower carving I do the rest of the tooling. She also does the IWB holsters, headstalls, most of the spur straps, the purses, Christmas stockings, wool vests and the wildrags (scarves). We usually tag team the leggings and I do the heavier leather items and the knives and sheaths.
 
Given your criteria I would have to politely point out that a full height convex ground is a small relative category. I like your thinking, but if you include full flat grinds in addition to full convex the field is a lot wider. Have you ever heard TRC Knives? They make an excellent knife known as the splinter. I have the Splinter 120 in M390 and splinter xs in N690. The Splinter 120 is a particularly good slicer. My Malanika puukko in 4V is also a particularly sweet knife.
 
Totally agree with Jhansenak47 - take a look at TRC knives. Splinters are great slicers, for your criteria I would take a look also at K-1 and K-1 Fuller.
 
.... I have a 3V Convex Next Gen on the way now.('Bought it used - didn't realize that they were still being made until I went to DLT's website following the link that you posted.) If it works out, then a Convex GNS is likely my next purchase. Thank you again.
You'll have no need of the GNS after receiving the NextGen.
 
You'll have no need of the GNS after receiving the NextGen.

After I got it, I sharpened it and removed that ridiculous secondary bevel and it still cut very poorly in comparison to my Fallknivens. I could not get rid of that knife fast enough. I'm done with 3V - I've owned one 3V Bark River, two Survive! GSO 4.1's and now an LT Wright, and none of them cut worth a crap in comparison to my A2 Bark Rivers or Fallknivens in VG-10 and CoS......

I think that I'm just going to stick to my F1's from here on out - every time that I get suckered into some new and improved super special something or another, I end up pissed off at it's lack of performance and go back to the Fallknivens. I think (hope:)) that I've finally learned this lesson.

Rant over. You will now be returned to your regularly scheduled program....
 
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After I got it, I sharpened it and removed that ridiculous secondary bevel and it still cut very poorly in comparison to my Fallknivens. I could not get rid of that knife fast enough. I'm done with 3V - I've owned one 3V Bark River, two Survive! GSO 4.1's and now an LT Wright, and none of them cut worth a crap in comparison to my A2 Bark Rivers or Fallknivens in VG-10 and CoS......

I think that I'm just going to stick to my F1's from here on out - every time that I get suckered into some new and improved super special something or another, I end up pissed off it's lack of performance and go back to the Fallknivens. I think (hope:)) that I've finally learned this lesson.

Rant over. You will now be returned to your regularly scheduled program....

Hah. I know what you mean. Sometimes what you want is right in front of you as long as you can accept it as it is.

Get out of your head and into the world.
(I need to take my own advice.)
 
Hah. I know what you mean. Sometimes what you want is right in front of you as long as you can accept it as it is.

Get out of your head and into the world.
(I need to take my own advice.)

Yep! This is exactly the point that I have reached. My F1's have never let me down and my time and energy is better spent in using my tools rather than obsessing over them....
 
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