knife oil??

Food grade mineral oil is what I use on most of my knives, especially those that could see KP Duty in the kitchen or in camp.

Most vegetables oils will go rancid over time.


Bigger high carbon cutting tools like machetes and axes get rubbed down with motor oil.

These tools, being stored in my truck or barn/garage, see more extremes in temperature and humidity.

I like something relatively light oil like 0w20

I do the same with saws and saw blades.




Big Mike
 
JackHammer said:
I just looked that up and you are correct. Thanks.
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I wouldn't let that put you off using it as blade oil though, that's why it's so wonderfully gifted in not going rancid plus it has so many other uses if you pack a little with you.

Fire is a great one, you can burn it in a can with a wick (TP) like any other lamp oil and lip care is also good, I mix it with just enough beeswax to stay solid and refill my Blistex containers. It can soften beeswax down to archery wax giving strength to natural cordage, which ups your survivability X's thousands. Make a bow for getting a small game, it's fun or just build a stronger shelter.

Plus the practice of swallowing it as lubricant has been widely accept fir many a year, contact with a little bit won't harm ya none.
 
CJZ said:
There was a rust test done by a member here recently:

Apparently Eezox is the best rust inhibitor so far.
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I tested it. Eezox wins...no comparison. I also used Fluid film, Tuff glide, Break free CLP, Milspec 1, WD-40 and a control with nothing on it. When immersed in salt water Eezox was so far ahead, that I extended the test just with the Eezox until it got boring after a week at which time it had a few rust spots. Tuff Glide only latest a few hours.
 
I use mineral oil on my carbon steel blades. Olive or vegetable oil also works well.

I've used frog lube too.
 
I used a tuff cloth, but I got tired of the smell and I tend to use my knives to cut food from time to time and I do not like the taste, so now I keep a light coating of mineral oil on all of my high carbons and have not had any issues. another plus is that it is cheap!
 
theaxel said:
I'm just asking about what sort of oil i should be using to stop my high carbon knives from rusting. I was using wd-40 but that didn't seem to work that well and you can't use that if you want to prepare food.

Any suggestions, and can you just use kitchen oil???
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I use 3 in 1. Cheap and it works. I you have kitchen knifes, I would use a thick oil like olive or canola. All the oil has to do is prevent water from being on the knifes and that can be done with any oil...however if the oil comes off it may not work. Obviously chemically formulated oils that prevent rust are best but 3 in 1 works great on my sk5 bushman, so long as I keep it oiled.
 
Yes I have tested them as well, salt water immersion over a period of days.

Eezox is the best but may be hard to find.

Break-Free CLP (the fluid, not the spray) comes pretty close and is widely available.

The others (Boesheild, Ballistol, FP-10 etc.) did not fare nearly as well, but did much better than WD-40.

Have not tried the Frog, will pick some up next time I see it and give it a test.
 
Yes I have tested them as well, salt water immersion over a period of days.

Eezox is the best but may be hard to find.

Break-Free CLP (the fluid, not the spray) comes pretty close and is widely available.

The others (Boesheild, Ballistol, FP-10 etc.) did not fare nearly as well, but did much better than WD-40.

Have not tried the Frog, will pick some up next time I see it and give it a test.
 
JackHammer said:
If you're using the knife for food preparation, use a food grade mineral oil which can be found at most groceries or pharmacies. I would never use any petroleum based oils for food prep, but that's just me.
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Well, it looks like you're in for a surprise.

If you're using food grade mineral oil, IT IS PETROLEUM BASED. Produced ('distilled') from crude oil, just as with other petro products. It's 'food grade', because it's been refined to a level that is non-reactive with the human body, and therefore can't be absorbed by the body. This is also why it's used as a laxative, under different labelling. Any 'mineral oil' comes from petroleum, and is named as such because it is extracted from the earth, i.e. 'mined'. Non-food-grade mineral oils aren't refined/distilled to the same degree, and still contain other petroleum ingredients that preclude them from being 'safe' for human consumption.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Mineral_oil


David
 
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Based on post # 12 I have ordered some Fluid Film. I will see what the label says when it arrives but so far as I know Lanolin is not toxic.
 
Fluid Film is great stuffn I use it on all my blades and nano oil on all my pivots. It works excellent.
 
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