Photos Knife Photos with Easy/Cheap Set Up

Joined
Feb 15, 2003
Messages
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I've participated inSharpByCoop's excellent/invaluable thread:
'No Frills' $75.00 home studio tent/lightbox
all the way back to Jan 14, 2014 in post #557 (link) please read that post, as a sort of preface to this thread.

All my knife photos since then have been using this set up.
49538765743_bec3c3ac7c_z.jpg

Leaning is a $1 white foam art board from a $ store ;)
Those are cheap desk lamps and I use household 6500K LED bulbs rated at 100watt equivalent.
My backgrounds are unimaginative, just a black flock/felt cloth or literally a piece of white paper.


Although almost any camera will do - I use a mirrorless - that seems to run counter to all the professional usage of dSLRs.

Let me try to explain: camera focuses on an internal AF sensor. AF sensor of a dSLR sits in the well of the mirror box and light is diverted through the mirror
49790006373_f4ebabc0a2_z.jpg

(note: not my image, found on the web and re-hosted)
Long story short, the AF/focusing sensor is not on the actual photo taking sensor - so there is a margin of error. Most top dSLRs do a lot to make sure the AF is accurate, and for most photography at normal to far distances the possible errors are negligible.

However critical close-ups where the depth of field is shallow and/or different color lighting, can still cause a problem (there are plenty of threads on the web that talk about AF adjustments)

On a mirrorless the AF/focusing sensors are actually on the photo taking senor - so there is no error.

The camera I use:
49775170223_cfb32660a7_o.jpg

It's a humble entry level FujiFilm X-M1 with its kit lens XC 16-50mm.
That is a LCD viewfinder attached to the rear LCD screen uses very strong magnet and a steel frame that self-adheres to the LCD outer frame (cheap from fleaBay at less than $10), 2.8x magnification - so my view is huge - in effect becomes a view-camera.

A critical test is to photograph at the closest focusing distance of something with lots of fine (but recognizable) detail - like a bank note -
49776383352_e3d65db358_o.jpg


Intro over.

One of my favorite knives the (small) Mcusta 113D "Tsuchi" (link to review)
49687030688_bf49efd1e6_o.jpg

knife photos have EXIF metadata attached.

more photos to come....


ADDENDUM -

I've updated several posts in this thread with additional information or photos -

Post #1 (link) - opening post - added comments about critical focusing, and example close up of $ bill.

Post #6 (link) - added many more photos and a WARNING about QC of TUO Ring H paring knife.

Post #8 (link) - found name of Kershaw 1315BW, and availability - added more photos of the 1315BW Thrust.

Post #9 (link) - added more photos and information about the Canton/Quandong knife.

Post #10 (link) - added better photos of the SETO I-8.

Post #12 (link) - added several photos of ceramic paring knife blade close ups.

Post #13 (link) - partial mitigation of photographing mirror finish - by wearing gloves. Added shots of replacement TUO Ring H TC0307H 9.5 in Chef knife. Added comments about sharpness and USB microscope pics of edge. Linked to video of a review of this exact knife, reviewer's experience and insight on handling are impressive.

Post #15 (link) - simple way to lower bright hot-spots or directional lighting.

Post #17 (link) - added photo of SpeedSafe disassembled.

Post #21 (link) - added size comparison of Kershaw Pub 4036CF with SAK

Post #24 (link) - added USB microscope pics of AllWin Houseware 8 in Chef edge.

Post #25 (link) - added USB microscope pic of carbon fiber detail of Kershaw Wire 1337.

Post #33 (link) - added pics of pull-through broadhead sharpener; added pic with a couple of Finnish Puukkos; added response to MoraKniv email query from grandson of KJ Eriksson, and past catalog page

Post #34 (link) - added pics for the third and finally good sample of this TUO Ring H TC0301H 8 in chef knife.

Post #35 (link) - eBay Return resolution for defective Keemake 8 in Chef

Post #36 (link) - added pics of standard beech wood handle Opinel #8

Post #41 (link) - bought second sample and updated with lots of comments and possibly controversial thought for knife knuts. Please read.

Post #43 (link) - differential sharpening putting 20deg at front and 25deg 1/3 toward the heel, photos and USB microscope.

Post #46 (link) - summary of some how to's

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Nice! I would like to see a pic of a knife with a mirror finished blade.
Sure thing - literally just taken -
One of my all time favorites - a (late) Bill "Gordon" DeFreest stag drop point - I bought this from him in the '90's at one of the New York City Blade Shows:
49790739011_42eaf7d95f_o.jpg

EXIF metadata attached.

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Thanks! Beautiful knife and great photo. I'll have to try your setup. Couldn't be easier!
 
Thanks! Beautiful knife and great photo. I'll have to try your setup. Couldn't be easier!
Thank you.

I break lots of "rules" - I don't use a tripod or any form of static support and do purely handheld - not because of any rebellious or stubborn thing - but because it gives me lots of flexibility to move around to see the best lighting/modelling. Similarly that $1 white foam board is not fixed and can lean on my camera, forehead, extended finger of hand holding camera(!):eek: this is so that it can be tilted at different angles to provide the best reflected light and/or reflection. Also those cheapo desk lamps both have flexible goose necks, so again I can adjust them for lighting angles... ie: a moveable/variable feast.... so none of my photos are exactly reproducible - strangely enough, when I do retake a photo it tends to turn out better... so hopefully it's a continuously improving process.

49790357457_e69002b37d_o.jpg

An inexpensive "Damascus" paring knife - TUO Ring H - despite the obvious assumption, it is not Japanese, but made in China. Got it because of the unusual "Damascus" pattern unlike the other knives I have.

Close-up of the blade and "Damascus" pattern:
49790443956_2d4a927c38_o.jpg

all knife photos have EXIF metadata attached.

EDIT to ADD -

This is the same series as the 9.5" chef's knife - it looks as though there are only a few layers of "Damascus" cladding - unlike most "Damascus" clad knives that seem to go by the more layers the better....

These TUO Ring H series (H= hammered) appear to distinguish themselves by the pattern of the cladding.

Having just heaped praise of this series -
Here's a WARNING -
personally I would NOT buy these paring knives -
I bought them 3 times, and all three had to be returned.

Primary fault was the handle "rings" were misaligned:
49787311127_7ed6c732b4_o.jpg

on all three!

Then there was one where the G10 handle was filthy - with excess glue spill/overflow
49807581893_7cf184a3f7_o.jpg


and the third and last one had a blade that was bent(!) from the handle -
despite my special request with Amazon CS to have the knife inspected before shipping - so much for QC of this brand, and Amazon!
49863726571_ea81290dbd_o.jpg


Despite all that, I still think the blade is beautiful with interesting figuring of its "Damascus" cladding, so let me leave this with a nice photo of the third (and final for me) sample of this paring knife:

49863811106_84790c712a_o.jpg

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Just TERRIFIC! Thanks Vincent. Simple, effective, and inexpensive is ALWAYS welcome.

A quote from MY website: "The most important piece of ‘equipment’ is the technician’s methods, knowledge, and artistry–which I strive for. (You would agree in your fields also!) The best equipment in the world is of no value to a mediocre talent, and the most primitive of tools can give stunning results in the right hands."
 
Just TERRIFIC! Thanks Vincent. Simple, effective, and inexpensive is ALWAYS welcome.

Thank you Coop!
I didn't use my set up for this pic....
41813488634_15a2a14142_o.jpg

Sharp eyes may see the accidental selfie.

I posted this in your light cube thread - a study of black-on-black
49775652566_a2d64f5782_o.jpg


These are Kershaw's blackwash finish -
Filter 1306BW
49767363523_1acfec90ff_o.jpg


Thrust 1315BW (just found out model name)
49770611411_f404a813d4_o.jpg

EDIT to Add - Kershaw Thrust 1315BW appears to be an exclusive at Bass Pro Shops (available) and Caleba's (? shows pic and model name, but cannot select)

Before I knew of its availability at Bass Pro Shops - I liked this so much I bought another used ...

Just to exercise camera definition - some more pics of the Kershaw Thrust 1315BW (of used one):
49843638316_ca4ce05b10_o.jpg

49843094113_1d5d8b3fe1_o.jpg

49843942672_beceab778c_o.jpg


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Paul Chen/Hanwei Canton knife:
49794916566_886f469d41_o.jpg

two characters in chased gold (left to right) say Canton (Guangdong)-
Paul Chen had this made for me, and asked what to put on it.
Filigree in gold - the standard edition of the knife used silver.

EDIT to ADD -
more photos - the correct name for the knife is Quandong knife -
50056418472_f073dce48d_o.jpg

50055597638_9d059c491b_o.jpg

Size -
50056172316_83865a706a_o.jpg

closed -
50056172481_739f1ff522_o.jpg


From the CAS Iberia webpage:
(https://casiberia.com/product/quandong-folder/kh2026)

Quandong Folder by Paul Chen / Hanwei
KH2026

Silver inlaid buffalo horn is the handle material of choice for Hanwei’s Quandong Folder. The form of the folder originated many generations ago in the Quandong (or Canton) Province, but the button lock, from designer Paul Chen, is strictly a modern twist. The Quandong represents influences of nature in the design with its egg plant shaped handle and bamboo leaf shaped blade. A truly interesting piece for the collector and knife enthusiast.

Made by Hanwei.
Product Details

Key Features:

440C steel blade, buffalo horn scales
Locks open and closed
Bale for belt attachment

Quandong Folder
MSRP: $65.00
Currently out of stock
Made In China
Specifications

Overall: 7”
Blade Length: 2 3/4”
Handle Length: 4“
Weight: 3.5oz
Thickness at Guard: .110“

Specs will vary slightly
from piece to piece.
The description says "bamboo leaf" although that sounds exotic - bamboo leaves tend to be narrow and pointy - this blade is not really like that, it's much broader.

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One of my favorite kitchen knives - used daily -

SETO Iseya I-8 mini Santoku (135mm/5.3" "utility"):
49726402371_7b5f97d7eb_o.jpg



Could not get the right lighting/modelling on the blade for pic of the whole knife above, so took a pic of just the blade isolated -
49803654387_da01faa946_o.jpg


EDIT to ADD -
report card said "can do better"..

Thought I'd attempt the photos again - with a recently "realized" discovery.

The knife does not lay flat due to the typical Japanese traditional D handle.

What's that got to do with anything? Well when I was attempting a shot, I thought saw the dreaded flesh tone reflection. But I was wearing black gloves and "socially" distanced from the knife...

So why? then I realized I was wearing a T-shirt with prominent red logo - the reflection was because the knife blade was not laying flat/horizontal, but tilted toward me.

So to solve that problem, just had to wedge small screwed up ball of paper "strategically" under the blade to tilt the blade to horizontal.

high tech stuff, huh? ...

50074101411_0dc66caa31_o.jpg

50073533288_24a0cc95f9_o.jpg

Now for the all important blade...
50074101466_cb3c0878a3_o.jpg

shows progress and improvement :p
50074349702_2e70c8cb19_o.jpg


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Fantastic photos. I would be hard pressed to imagine how they could be any better! I've ordered bulbs and lamps and have a flat white sheet of cardboard already that I will try.
 
Fantastic photos. I would be hard pressed to imagine how they could be any better! I've ordered bulbs and lamps and have a flat white sheet of cardboard already that I will try.
Thank you for your kind words.

Despite the crude/simple set up it gives lots of variations on lighting/modelling.
Might not be exactly reproducible and strictly speaking too variable -
but I'd rather trade those off for the flexibility to get what I see.

Here's a ringer -
49806924742_922a290aaa_o.jpg

It's a 3" ceramic paring knife that probably cost less than $4 - bought over 9 years ago.
Usually I don't have that much nice to say about ceramic blades -

They are brittle/fragile - so most makers make them thick for durability - in the early days I bought a Boker folding ceramic pocket knife the blade was not that sharp and since we normally can't sharpen ceramic - it was a mediocre edge that lasts a long time - I returned that for a refund.

This cheap ceramic paring knife has a hollow ground that takes the thickness down behind the edge - using digital micrometer measured 0.011" at the shoulder of the edge. That and the sharpness is respectable - still not as good as some steel knives - but acceptable, it seems best at pulling or sawing type cuts.

USB microscope shot of edge:
49807943857_1a534c7da9_o.jpg


A short story long(!) -
the handle, I think, used to be "rubberized" ie: plastic coated with rubbery substance.
Being over 9 years old the coating had deteriorated and was a gooey/gluey mess -
took several hours to clean, using rubbing alcohol, then Goo (be) Gone, then washing liquid -
to get rid of the gooey sticky mess. Leaving a plain textured plastic handle.

EDIT to ADD

I've used this ceramic knife over the past few days -
although it is not the sharpest in the block (!;))
- it has performed pretty well as a paring knife,
and I wondered if I could figure out (and overcome my bias) why this was so.
Close-up of the blade:
49819183331_90a62667dc_o.jpg

Hollow ground and bevel:
49819183366_79814b1a84_o.jpg

Profile:
49819183471_40275bdccc_o.jpg

Lastly - while fiddling about with the knife -
I dropped it onto vinyl tiled kitchen floor from counter height -
since dropping a ceramic knife is a big no-no, expected it to shatter or break, as I think it fell on its tip....
Nope, it's OK
USB microscope shot of tip:
49818647593_4996192143_o.jpg

phew! :cool:

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This was a real challenge, and one of the most beautiful blades I've seen:
49811318746_7cc3d643e1_o.jpg

mirror polished finish...
the blade is simply WoW!
49811318716_f332e944b1_o.jpg

EDIT to ADD - mirror polish as the name says reflects, and can be the bane in photography - often catching the photographer - with the dreaded flesh tone in the photo. One can minimize flesh tone reflections by wearing black gloves
49811330191_98a57cf4fd_o.jpg

any plain black gloves will do (white might also work, haven't tried) - but to retain feel and the ability to to make adjustments - I use very thin glove liners, these happen to be Thermasilk (bought years ago as liners to keep hands warm(!)

Only just got this knife yesterday - took me two days of study and trial and error to get my shots -
but it has to go back.... such a pity
49807582538_67ab6fd9bd_o.jpg


EDIT to ADD -
I returned the above for a refund - then found the price had dropped, quite substantially - and unable to resist, I purchased it again - but this time wrote to the vendor asking for the knife to be inspected prior to shipment, showing the problem I had with the previous purchase....

It arrived today, and it's fine.

Since I think this is one of the best looking blades I'd ever seen - thought I'd take some shots of this one:
49862095616_c1a9822bda_o.jpg

Close up of the blade:
49862409707_fec9111afb_o.jpg

EDIT to ADD 2 -
came to use this in the kitchen (caveat - this is the only 9.5in chef I have, but do possess many 8in and 7in, as well as Santokus, which are really, really sharp).

BOY! is this sharp, seem to cut by merely touching - I figure this possibly could be the weight of a larger knife.

At the TUO cutlery website their description:
"Bladesmiths with more than 20-year experience hand sharpen the edge with traditional 3-step Honbazuke method at staggering 12-15 degree each side and ensure razor-sharp cutting edge for every piece of the knife."

USB microscope pics of edge about 2.5in from tip:
49865534446_4427325553_o.jpg

other side -
49865534431_8530fecb77_o.jpg


EDIT to ADD 3 -
I normally just judge knives by how sharp they are and how well they cut through things. Also about the feel and balance - the latter is kind of ad-hoc and I've not been able to really explain them.

However I found this video of a review of this exact knife -
where the reviewer is able to explain these things with a great deal of clarity and insight
(I was really impressed) -

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I am a bit ambivalent about (American) Tanto points. Most of the time I think they're somewhat impractical, but there are some like the Bud Nearly Aikuchi above, that just look great.

Recently I discovered the Spanto point (Hinderer design), combination of the practicality of a Spear point and the strength of a Tanto point.

Kershaw make a Hinderer designed Seedsafe Spanto point - Thermite (3880):
49790214877_218768d495_o.jpg

Nice Stonewash blade (8Cr13MoV) G10 scales on the front and 410 steel back and frame-lock. Having a G10 front cuts down on the weight (4.9oz)

I liked it enough - I also got the smaller Mini Thermite (3885) used to be a Cabela's exclusive:
49811145206_983de9ff7b_o.jpg

To my eyes it looks better proportionally.

I know, I know, it's close to what a lot would call "junk" steel, 3Cr13MoV, however, for a general purpose knife that's kind of OK, since it can be sharpened well (3Cr13MoV is the equivalent to 420J2 with added molybdenum and vanadium. 420 grade steel is used in high end razors and scalpels) and it is tough, durable and very corrosion resistant (used for dive knives). The Mini also uses Glass Filled Nylon (GFN) on the front instead of G10 (but I actually like GFN, as it is not as rough as machined G10, but still tough and durable - Spyderco uses it a lot, as FRN).
Call it my "misguided" bias.....

Side-by-side comparison:
49810599728_f3a24b4209_o.jpg

EDIT to ADD 2 - to mitigate the hot brightness on the blade especially the tip - I have started to use a piece of paper....:p;)
49803701046_60abd7cebb_o.jpg

I do this for one side only - the blade side (or the side I need to reduce the brightness and/or directionality; leaving the other side as-is - ie: bare diffused bulb in desk lamp)

I have the Blackwash version on order and will add it to this post when it arrives.

EDIT to ADD 1
The Blackwash version has arrived,
gives another chance to shoot a study of black on black -
49827608552_b11083e88c_o.jpg

There is something about Kershaw's Blackwash I'd like to share:
most of the time they arrive looking too black - and do not have that worn look shown in in photos - I read someone complaining the finish was not durable and came off when cutting citrus food. That gave me a hint to polish the finish - I just use Brasso - with concentration on the lines/seams, to help emphasize the "worn" look. This seems to work well for me.

size comparison -
49827610617_4899e46f30_o.jpg

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One of my all time favorites:
49831584886_d9a2b147a5_o.jpg

Kershaw Ricochet 1520
along with the Random Task - were the very first Kershaw/Ken Onion SpeedSafe knives (limited run 1998, only produced until 1999) - polished G10 scales and CPM 440V steel (S60V)

I am an unabashed Ken Onion fan - he said about this knife - it's like handmade quality at factory prices.

They were actually hand fitted and assembled (see Ken Onion's Post).

I had various problems with mine (none the fault of the knife, but simply my inexperience/ignorance - please see Kershaw Ricochet 1520 - a Retrospective)

This knife had re-developed play in the blade, and had a rattle when shaken. In the course of finding a solution - I came across various YouTube videos that explained grease in the SpeedSafe torsion bar chamber was to hold the spring in place and prevent rattling!

So I took it apart and found the grease in the torsion bar chamber was dry(!) - cleaned it out and re-greased with the only grease I had on hand - some moly-lithium grease - while I was there cleaned everything I could with alcohol and lubed sparingly with same grease.

I didn't take photos of the disassembly of the Ricochet - but here's a photo of a CB Leek (I had just started to grease the torsion bar chamber):
49834696677_ab2172e54a_o.jpg


Reassembled - the knife now works (possibly) better than new. So blue Loctite pivot screw in place.

My love re-kindled

49831895732_7bca6c0d37_o.jpg


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now this is what I call a knife....
49833786718_0e0cf0ce77_o.jpg

Teton Bowie 9 1/2" blade - made in Seki, Japan fully convex profile with zero (convex) bevel.

I wrote about it here almost 17 years ago.

It was a rival to the then extremely popular Cold Steel Trail Master Bowie.

A web search of "Teton Bowie" show several results listing it as a BlackJack knife....
Our old posts did not mention this association, even if only as an out-sourced product.

This was also available under the Rigid name - sold by SMKW (Smoky Mountain Knife Works) - have read more than one complaint about chipping when used hard - not exactly desirable for a camp style knife....
EDIT to ADD I found this thread about the Rigid version - RG69 - in particular post #4 was extremely informative and helps clarify some points....

anyway...
comes with good quality thick leather sheath
49842287071_481ebb27bd_o.jpg

all this has survived well for a 27+ year old knife.

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After taking photos of the Ricochet 1520 and the Leek 1660PGT - got infatuated with polished G10
- found this:
Kerhsaw AM-3 2335 - Al Mar designed
49847936927_6c2aa9306e_o.jpg

The G10 is not highly polished, close to satin - perhaps not as smooth/slippery, with a bit of grip - doesn't look as good - but more functional.

Closed comparison:
49847098693_40af600ce6_o.jpg

Ricochet has the highest polish/gloss, then the Leek 1660PGT, then AM-3 which is noticeably less glossy/polished. Tried metal polish, followed by high gloss car polish - didn't improve the shine much.

Al Mar designs are reputed to get very good blade length to body ratio.
AM-3 2335 - closed 3.75", blade 3.125"
Leek 1660PGT closed 4", blade 3"
Ricochet 1520 - closed 4.5", blade 3.125"

A picture is worth... (something :eek:)
49847631171_099f19af71_o.jpg

The AM-3 2335 is a Frame-Lock vs the liner-locks of the other two.

AM-3 is very well done - the back is black oxide coated and contoured to match the front - matches quite well due to the front not being highly polished(!)

There is a larger model AM-4 2330, and one with finger groove contours AM-5 2340

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