knife scale finishes

cz375hh

cz375hh

Joined
May 16, 2009
Messages
150
I am a new member and a knife maker want a be, what is a good finish for dried only curly maple ?
 
Danish or teak oil would be good finish, but super glue finish is hard to beat when it comes to look, though I didn't like it much as it is a bit slippery afterall...
 
I've seen some incredible treatments of curly maple by gunsmiths - and I can't remember the process, but it turned a very rich... ummm... yellow isn't the word but... well maybe it is. Amber? Pale gold? Sunsheets?

Anyone know the process? Some sort of acid maybe?

Rob!
 
I got this from Stuart Willis. -Larry

Curly maple recipe:

3 parts water (About Pint Size Parts)
1 part muratic acid
ALWAYS ADD ACID TO WATER just remember 3A's DO ALL THIS OUTSIDE AND DON'T INHALE THE FUMES!!!!!!! WEAR EYE PROTECTION!!!!!
I then pull a pad of 0000 steel wool apart and add to the mixture. Let mixture dissolve the steel wool usually takes about 2 days. It is then ready for use.
The finer and slicker you get the wood the better the stripes will pop out. I apply sparingly. It will turn the wood a yellowish color. you will think you have ruin it. Apply heat with a heat gun or torch till blackened. Don't burn it just turn it black. Again you will think you ruined it and by this time you be hating me. Rinse with baking soda and water mix almost a paste but still a liquid as you wash it will turn brown. Steel wool again after drying and add you favorite finish.
Every piece of maple will be different try a small scrap piece before doing the actual piece. if it doesn't suit you you can always add a little leather dye to get more reds or browns
 
I would put something under the paste wax if you went that route, like an hardening oil finish(tung oil for example) for a knife handle.
 
Larry-My dad has used your recipe on the curly maple of his hand made muzzle loader rifles and it did a great job of accenting the wood grain. He did find that if you did not do a good job with the baking soda and water mix which neutralizes the acid that the wood over time would get darker due to the remaining acid in the wood. Steve
 
Steve,
You should check out some of Stuart Willis's hawks. The finish is spectacular. He does great work and is great guy to deal with. Hes the one who gave me the recipe. He does some really cool stuff with pewter too.

That makes sense on the acid. I guess it gets pretty dark as the heat gets applied. I suppose like anything else practice, practice, practice. Thats cool your dad has used it. It is an old muzzleloader recipe I guess. Well good luck and post some pics as you go along. :thumbup:

Larry
 
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