knife sharpening system

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KodyL

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Jul 14, 2016
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I had a brief look in the stickies but that seemed to lead to more questions. I have a number of sharpeners, like Nirey, Ken Onions, WorkSharp, Spyderco SharpMaker. Some I find scratch the blade, belts too hard to get or are too slow. To work the edge down after the hardening and tempering process what do some of you guys use ?
 
I use the lansky multi stone system starting with the extra coarse diamond stone to set the edge at the desired angle. From there I run through med, fine, extra fine and finish with the leather strop.
I think most makers around here set the edge on their belt grinder but, being a novice, I'm incredibly nervous about screwing up a completed knife to save a few minutes.
 
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I use my 2x72. I tilt my platen forward 15 degrees (for the average knife), and hold the edge vertical/perpendicular to the table. I keep the belt slow and take a couple quick passes on the buffer afterwards.
 
If it's a thin edge already, say .010 or less, I use paper wheels then a surgisharp belt. If it's a thicker edge I'll do it on my belt sander with a 30 micron milar belt.

When I started I felt the same way as E.Carlson E.Carlson and used a jig I'd made that works like an Apex Edgepro with diamond stones. But I rarely use it anymore. About the only thing I'll do by hand now is the final stropping.
 
I think my method is kinda unconventional from most, but I find I get really good control this way and it gives me a nice clean edge. I run the blade diagonally down the idler end of my 6x48 belt sander (belt moving away from me) using a 220 grit belt to put the initial edge on the blade (pictured). I then use a strop to finish up the edge till it shaves hair. I tried doing it the usual method on a smaller belt running perpendicular to the blade edge, but found it difficult to get a consistent edge and angle.

Screenshot_20170509-153522_zpsioxpvbh2.png
 
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I do it freehand. I use the slack area between my top platen wheel and platen. 120 trizact, 65 and 45 norax, then strop on my old 1x30 with green compound on a leather belt.
 
KodyL said:
I had a brief look in the stickies but that seemed to lead to more questions. I have a number of sharpeners, like Nirey, Ken Onions, WorkSharp, Spyderco SharpMaker. Some I find scratch the blade, belts too hard to get or are too slow. To work the edge down after the hardening and tempering process what do some of you guys use ?
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I've only made one knife but I have a Tormek that I sharpen all my edge tools with. It made short work of grinding the edge and since its a water bathed wheel, no chance of drawing the temper.
 
I have a wicked edge pro 2 kit my girlfriend and kids went in on for me for xmas last year. I've used it to sharpen about a dozen knives I've made and I am very impressed with it. The kit I have has diamond stones to 1000 grit I believe and I have ceramics up to 2000 grit and leather strops with 2.5 and 5 micron diamond paste. Its not as fast as something powered but I can put an edge on just about anything at any angle that will split hairs.

I saw a tormek style sharpener in a video that was horizontal so you used the flat side of the wheel instead of putting hollow grinds on all your secondary bevels, I didn't care for that with the tormek. Probably not a big deal because i know a few guys that love the tormek. The problem is the guy using the horizontal wheel was in south america and I have searched and asked on here and was never able to find it.

I was taught by a MS to sharpen an edge on the belt grinder but I stopped doing that after a conversation with Kevin Cashen. At least until I water cool my 2x72.

-Clint
 
I currently use Norax belts from 100-600 grit. They run flat and cool. I tilt my platen to the degree I want and hold the blade perpendicular to the floor to get an exact angle.

I then use a leather belt with green chrome.

This is not the answer you are looking for :)

If I were just a person wanting to sharpen my knives I would invest into the Ken Onion work sharp with the knife makers attachment to sharpen with.
 
Makita still makes a horizontal wet wheel grinder. It works well on planer blades, woodworking tool blades, and pretty well on knives, but it's messy. You have to lower the "splash guard" to get the handle of a small knife close enough to to the wheel to sharpen the base of the blade, so swarf slings everywhere. Last I used one was 18 years ago at a former employer.

Now I sharpen on the 2X72, very carefully and slowly on Norax belts, or by hand on diamond stones
 
I have multiple methods that I use. The majority of the time, and for the sake of consistency, I use my belt grinder. I throw my knife in the jig and set my platen to anywhere between 10-25(Scandinavian-obtuse chopper), and go. It really makes things exact. I too have been super paranoid about ruining the temper on my edge apexes, and run the belt as slow as possible and grind wet. I just throw some water on the belt while it's going and I'm good to go. You don't really need a special wear grinding system when doing things like that. Putting water on by hand is more than adequate.

I remove the burr with the strop wheel from a paper sharpening wheel kit. It's pretty easy to get a hair whittling sharp edge.
 
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I freehand with a 220 on slack belt of my 2x72 at slow speed then a surgisharp leather strop belt with the rough side loaded with green chrome.
 
I've never had an issue with overheating the edge on the 6x48 with the way I do it. It's a pretty fast swiping motion down across the idler wheel and very little actual contact, so nothing really has a chance to heat up. Takes like just a minute or two to put an edge on the knife.
 
by hand, Japanese waterstone 1000 grit, and then loaded leather strop.
the stone abrasives can scratch the blade however,

what did Don say before? I like the edge sharp before I sharpen it :-)
 
I use DMT stones from Extra Coarse to Extra Fine then leather strop with green compound. I used to use the KME system but found that the DMT stones are better and faster for me.
 
slow my KMG down and start at wet used 120 grit them wet 800 and extremely warn wet 9 micron (on platten ) then "strop" the edge in the slack belt. razors and sushi knives get water stones
 
I sharpen my fancy knives with the Wicked Edge with diamond stones and 3M lapping film. It creates a very nice V edge - with a pretty exact angle. Mirror polished if I want it. After stropping with 0,05 micron film it's scary sharp.

Utility knives or very fast sharpening gets their treatment on my grinder with a sharpening platen. It is a flat platen covered with leather for a subtle convex edge. I run it on a variable speed wet grinder.

I usually start with a AO 120 grit belt and finish with thin trizacts. Usually no more than A45. Then I finish with stropping using a clean belt loaded with green compound on the same grinder. It's a very quick process, it gives a really sharp and durable edge. Without the risk of overheating it. The adjustable workrest is for referencing the sharpening angle.

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currenthill said:
I sharpen my fancy knives with the Wicked Edge with diamond stones and 3M lapping film. It creates a very nice V edge - with a pretty exact angle. Mirror polished if I want it. After stropping with 0,05 micron film it's scary sharp.

Utility knives or very fast sharpening gets their treatment on my grinder with a sharpening platen. It is a flat platen covered with leather for a subtle convex edge. I run it on a variable speed wet grinder.

I usually start with a AO 120 grit belt and finish with thin trizacts. Usually no more than A45. Then I finish with stropping using a clean belt loaded with green compound on the same grinder. It's a very quick process, it gives a really sharp and durable edge. Without the risk of overheating it. The adjustable workrest is for referencing the sharpening angle.

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