knife sharpening

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Jul 22, 2016
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I've been making knives for 1-1/2 years, gotten pretty good; selling them, but having trouble honing my sharpening skills. I use a rig I built myself and use fine, medium and coarse stones from lansky. It's built on a 12x12x1 plywood base. the blade is clamped securely in place, from spine to edge its parallel to surface of base. The stones slide back and forth along a 1/4" rod, one end of the rod rests in an eye bolt that threads up and down for angle adjustment. The stones grind back and forth at right angle with the edge, along the length of the edge in an arc with the eye bolt as center. :confused:I first got the idea from the little lansky set up, then built my own based on pictures of heavier arrangements I saw pictures of, but hopefully the concept is clear. I remove a lot of steel on my 2x72 first, roughly establishing the angle then move the blade to my contraption. It works well but I always encounter the same thing: I get a nice burr from the point down along the belly, then once I reach the straight part of the edge, no matter how much I grind with the stones, I can't create a burr. Often my knives are scary sharp from tip to 1/2 way down but only sort of sharp the rest of the length. First I figured it was a matter of more elbow grease to remove the metal to create the burr but it doesn't want to form. No doubt some sort of geometry involved. I'm stumped- any advise, feedback, answers? Thanks!
 
Adjust the jig to raise the burr in the area where it usually does not form and it will raise a burr further towards the point. I have that going on with my Edge Pro Apex. The grind angle is shallower near the tip and more obtuse in the straight area toward the handle.

If I understand you right that should do it. Give a try and let us know.

Another problem you may run into and the reason I did not make a similar jig is the stones are different thicknesses even from the same maker and they are bound to wear at different rates so compensating for all that could turn into a night mare. The Edge Pro has that solved with the accessory collar. Perhaps you use the marker technique and adjust each time you change stones. I didn't learn that until after I got the Edge Pro and for some stones the difference from one stone to the next would be quite a lot so I imagine there may be other problems developing once one gets out side of a millimeter or so of thickness dif.

PS: Oh and I wanted to add for the stone width the narrower the better, like an inch or even a half inch, the full size stones two inches wide etc may not be able to reach down into any curve in the edge of the blade. That is part of the genius of the Sharp Maker, not that you would want that for your uses but narrow stones for knives is best.
 
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knifeyboy,

Are you there knifeyboy ?
knifeyboy speak to me . . .
Have you tried it ? How did it work ?

OH Gosh . . . I hope you didn't create such an evil blade that it has over come you and you lay . . . on the floor . . . at it's mercy . . . doomed to do it's bidding for all time . . .

knifeyboy . . . do you hear me ? Come in . . . OVER . . .
 
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