I think the biggest problem may be that I wasn't able to put the time into it I needed too. I was just giving it a try between running errands today and trying to fix dinner before work this evening. That and I didn't get a chance to give it a stropping.
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Knife sharpening.
- Thread starter jackknife
- Start date
kamagong
Gold Member
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- Jan 13, 2001
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- 10,940
Be nice to those that have to use gadgets to sharpen their knives, they probably didn't have anybody around to teach them the freehand method of sharpening with stones. I for one didn't and almost everything I know about sharpening I gleaned off the web. I wish I had a mentor to teach me, but I made do with what I had. I still don't know very many people who know how to even sharpen a knife at all, gizmos or not.
I'm now attempting to learn another skill, one that is much more challenging than simple knife sharpening. I recently picked up my first firearm, a Ruger 22/45. I really wanted to get a 1911, but I intend to become a crack shot. Rational thinking won out and I picked up a .22 that roughly approximates the controls and grip angle of John Browning's famed creation. I figured that this Ruger will allow me to learn the fundamentals of good pistol shooting more easily and cheaply than I would with a .45. I wish I knew someone local who could help me though. I know about the holy trinity of trigger control, sight picture, and proper breathing. Putting theoretical knowledge into practice is proving quite difficult however. Those of you that had mentors to teach you about knife sharpening, shooting, and other masculine pursuits should consider yourself lucky, not everyone is as fortunate as you.
I'm now attempting to learn another skill, one that is much more challenging than simple knife sharpening. I recently picked up my first firearm, a Ruger 22/45. I really wanted to get a 1911, but I intend to become a crack shot. Rational thinking won out and I picked up a .22 that roughly approximates the controls and grip angle of John Browning's famed creation. I figured that this Ruger will allow me to learn the fundamentals of good pistol shooting more easily and cheaply than I would with a .45. I wish I knew someone local who could help me though. I know about the holy trinity of trigger control, sight picture, and proper breathing. Putting theoretical knowledge into practice is proving quite difficult however. Those of you that had mentors to teach you about knife sharpening, shooting, and other masculine pursuits should consider yourself lucky, not everyone is as fortunate as you.
I have all ways sharpened hand. I use the circle motion to set the edge angle. To finish off the edge i do the thin slice thing until i remove the bur than i strop. On butcher knives and cleavers i hate to admit it i use a fine file to cut the edge then finish on a stone. Lampundermyfeet, would you mind describing how you made your Butcher steels out of the files. I made one by slowly grinding the teeth off of a round file, then polishing with sand paper. Sorry if that is a little off topic, but any help would be appreciated. Joe
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Kamagong. Once you have an idea of the fundamentals - breathing, sight alignment, and sight picture, then start easing over to the Zen aspects. Be it bow, hawk tossin (stump throwing) or shooting, it seems when I let myself just kind of flow out to the target mentally I do a lot better. I've found that if I try to focus purely on the mechanics I don't do nearly as well. I need that mental extension and to just kind of let the mechanics flow into a movement. That may sound a little new agey, but it works for me and gives me more pleasure out of the experience. Naturally, you have to have the fundamentals down first until they to become a fluid, natural movement. Above all, don't take yourself too serious and HAVE FUN! If it's all work and frustration it will never come together.
I was also self taught on sharpening. Probably cussed a few knives for being junk when it was probably my fault along the way. I have used crock sticks and a little Sypderco sharpening thing I bought at Ft. Devens, MA back in 83 or so. Still have and use them occasionally. However, along the way I mostly used Arkansas oil stones along the way. I read the part about the 20 degree angle and slicing, so that's what I did. My tri-stones came with a little plastic wedge that helped you keep the angle while you were learning. After a little while I got into freehanding.
Over time I found out that if I just took a moment and thought about it, remembering to pay some attention to keeping the blade steady, I could get most of my knives shaving sharp even using the slicing method. After a while most knives just kind of told me what angle they needed and if I was paying attention and listened things worked quite well. If things weren't working too good usually it was I wasn't listening as I should, or I was just kind of off at that time. Best then to just quit and come back later when I was more able to zone in. I usually ended up doing a few licks on a belt or similar piece of leather for a final stropping. Like Jackknife, I just used plain old leather. It wasn't until I got on here that I even heard of charged leather.
Now with the above methods I was pretty at home with 1095/CV steel (except some carbon Bokers that just seem to be a bit hard edged) and 440 type stainless. Oh, and SAK steel. I could feel the feedback from the blade as I sharpened telling me when things were right. When I started sharpening some 420HC stuff it felt a little weird to me, kind of slick or something. I've gotten better with it. I also found that how the blade is originally ground makes a big difference for me when free hand sharpening.
I do pretty decent with what I have and the stuff I'm familiar with steel wise. That doesn't make me a sharpening wizard by any means. I've been learning plenty of things on here and around. Never want to stop learning.
I am going to pick a few blades, get a small stone/diamond hone, and get comfortable with the lil' circles technique. Like Jackknife presents, it makes a handy way of keeping your sharpener with you and keeping things touched up when they're needed. I also know that rhythmic sound and motion of sharpening that way will be as relaxing and meditative as whittling a stick into shavings. I also like the idea of keeping things small, simple, and easy to keep on hand.
Just my pocket change of thoughts.
I was also self taught on sharpening. Probably cussed a few knives for being junk when it was probably my fault along the way. I have used crock sticks and a little Sypderco sharpening thing I bought at Ft. Devens, MA back in 83 or so. Still have and use them occasionally. However, along the way I mostly used Arkansas oil stones along the way. I read the part about the 20 degree angle and slicing, so that's what I did. My tri-stones came with a little plastic wedge that helped you keep the angle while you were learning. After a little while I got into freehanding.
Over time I found out that if I just took a moment and thought about it, remembering to pay some attention to keeping the blade steady, I could get most of my knives shaving sharp even using the slicing method. After a while most knives just kind of told me what angle they needed and if I was paying attention and listened things worked quite well. If things weren't working too good usually it was I wasn't listening as I should, or I was just kind of off at that time. Best then to just quit and come back later when I was more able to zone in. I usually ended up doing a few licks on a belt or similar piece of leather for a final stropping. Like Jackknife, I just used plain old leather. It wasn't until I got on here that I even heard of charged leather.
Now with the above methods I was pretty at home with 1095/CV steel (except some carbon Bokers that just seem to be a bit hard edged) and 440 type stainless. Oh, and SAK steel. I could feel the feedback from the blade as I sharpened telling me when things were right. When I started sharpening some 420HC stuff it felt a little weird to me, kind of slick or something. I've gotten better with it. I also found that how the blade is originally ground makes a big difference for me when free hand sharpening.
I do pretty decent with what I have and the stuff I'm familiar with steel wise. That doesn't make me a sharpening wizard by any means. I've been learning plenty of things on here and around. Never want to stop learning.
I am going to pick a few blades, get a small stone/diamond hone, and get comfortable with the lil' circles technique. Like Jackknife presents, it makes a handy way of keeping your sharpener with you and keeping things touched up when they're needed. I also know that rhythmic sound and motion of sharpening that way will be as relaxing and meditative as whittling a stick into shavings. I also like the idea of keeping things small, simple, and easy to keep on hand.
Just my pocket change of thoughts.
Will Power
Gold Member
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- Jan 18, 2007
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- 33,363
Be nice if Jackknife could make a short video of his honing technique for us all to learn from on-line
Glad I haven't bought that Sharpmaker yet, I'm rather put off by all the uncritical hoo-haa about it anyway!
Glad I haven't bought that Sharpmaker yet, I'm rather put off by all the uncritical hoo-haa about it anyway!
Be nice if Jackknife could make a short video of his honing technique for us all to learn from on-line
Hey, that's a great idea willgoy! JK, if you or one of your kids has a digital camcorder, why not see if they'll make a short video of you sharpening a knife and giving some advice as you go along, and then put it up on YouTube or somewhere and give us a link. I'm sure a lot of guys, myself included, would find it very helpful.
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- Sep 6, 2002
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Enjoyable post, as always jackknife...:thumbup:
Until jackknife gets around to making the movie... ...the folks at Buck have a nice tutorial of different sharpening styles (including the one jackknife describes).....
http://www.buckknives.com/sharpening.php
I often finish by stropping on the back of the small legal pad I keep by the computer for taking notes. The cardboard backing is just rough enough to polish most edges.
Good thread!
Bill
Until jackknife gets around to making the movie...
...the folks at Buck have a nice tutorial of different sharpening styles (including the one jackknife describes).....http://www.buckknives.com/sharpening.php
I often finish by stropping on the back of the small legal pad I keep by the computer for taking notes. The cardboard backing is just rough enough to polish most edges.
Good thread!
Bill
Niether Karen or I have the gear or know how to make a video, but I'll ask around. In the meantime I have an idea. If there are any forumites in the Washington D.C.-Baltimore, Northern Virginia area, I would love to have a hands on sharpening clinic to show any who are interested, how one old fart has gotten by for a lifetime with just one small hone and a belt. I think I'd feel weird in front of a camera, but I'd feel right at home teaching in person. Its just what I'm used to I guess.
Just you bring the beer or toddy makings.:thumbup:
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Jackknife, I think you and Karen should make a trip down to San Antonio for old time's sake. You could do a clinic and the two of you could go out and shoot some at the range where you met. 
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We've been talking about that!
Plus she'd like to see her old stomping grounds down in Harlingen.
C'mon down!
I think there might be a few fellows around the part of the country who might show up. 
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- Jun 14, 2005
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Thats an offer I would love to take up it I didn't live a million miles away
Liked your thoughts JK...... as always:thumbup:
Another thing to consider is how wide your hone is. Since slippies have all sorts of blade shapes, if you always use a really wide hone, sometimes it can be hard to catch certain parts of the blade. On most stockman clip blades I can get the belly right in no time, but if all I use is a 2" wide hone, it's hard get to the area closest to the tang for some reason.
One thing that works for me is I keep a spyderco ceramic benchstone (medium) in the kitchen dish drainer and use it dry for touchup work most of the time. While it is a 8" long and 2" wide hone, If I'm having trouble getting to the base of the blade I flip it up and use the edge rather than the face. Works pretty well. All in all it's handy to have a narrow hone sometimes. From the belly to tip of most blades, it's best to have something wider.
One thing that works for me is I keep a spyderco ceramic benchstone (medium) in the kitchen dish drainer and use it dry for touchup work most of the time. While it is a 8" long and 2" wide hone, If I'm having trouble getting to the base of the blade I flip it up and use the edge rather than the face. Works pretty well. All in all it's handy to have a narrow hone sometimes. From the belly to tip of most blades, it's best to have something wider.
- Joined
- Jan 22, 2007
- Messages
- 62
Sorry about getting back to you so late.
to make the steels from a round file, we first made a set of rollers to use for both ends of the steel. Then we would roll it across a wet wheel until it was smooth. We would maintain it with a green cleaning pad and some "Barkeepers Friend" that would not scratch the steel. When the steel got wore down, we just re-rolled it. Once the steel is smooth, one can also rub it don with some Emory cloth, if you do this, make sure that all of the lines form the clth are up and down and parallel with each other.
Good luck